Roof repairs

After you raise the roof membrane, there would be some type of plywood underlayment stapled or nailed to the roof trusses. That underlayment wood need to be removed as well to access the roof trusses. You would have to remove the entire roof to do this correctly. Not an easy job by any means, and would not be recommended by anyone not experienced in doing so. Once you remove the roof membrane, you will not be able to reuse it. Adhesive would need to be reapplied to underlayment then a new membrane. All roof openings will also need to be resealed along with the rain strips running along the sides.

I would pursue having the manufacture address since this issued occurred originally under warranty previously. If they will not help, IMO, trade it in for a new one and do not point the issue out to the dealer.

rdrector wrote:
After you raise the roof membrane, there would be some type of plywood underlayment stapled or nailed to the roof trusses. That underlayment wood need to be removed as well to access the roof trusses. You would have to remove the entire roof to do this correctly. Not an easy job by any means, and would not be recommended by anyone not experienced in doing so. Once you remove the roof membrane, you will not be able to reuse it. Adhesive would need to be reapplied to underlayment then a new membrane. All roof openings will also need to be resealed along with the rain strips running along the sides.

I would pursue having the manufacture address since this issued occurred originally under warranty previously. If they will not help, IMO, trade it in for a new one and do not point the issue out to the dealer.

That last part ? So the dealer can then pass the problem on to some unsuspecting buyer, WOW your a gem. Remember what goes around comes around.

ifd22 wrote:
I’m looking for guidance on repairing a travel trailer roof. My 2016 shadow cruiser has a bowed style roof. The ends of the trusses where they connect to the wall structure are popping loose putting pressure on the rubber membrane. I had it repaired once under warranty but it is now doing it again. I’m not interested what so ever in having the dealer look at it again, and I would rather fix it correctly myself.
My question is, to access the truss ends is it as easy as removing the screwed on edge seal on the edge of the roof and lifting the membrane up to access the trusses? It appears if I remove this strip the rubber membrane should come right up. Once I have access to the structure I shouldn’t have any issues performing repairs.
Once I reapply the strip is there any sealant involved?

Thanks

It depends on how your planning on fixing the problem. Maybe you could elaborate.

Farmboy666 wrote:

rdrector wrote:

That last part ? So the dealer can then pass the problem on to some unsuspecting buyer, WOW your a gem. Remember what goes around comes around.

If you think a dealer is going to point out flaws on a used TT's you have your head in the sand. If you trade something in, it is up to the dealer to inspect, as you when making a purchase. I did not say cover it up, or defraud, I said keep your mouth shut and don't point it out. I see you are a saint though "666."

rdrector wrote:

Farmboy666 wrote:

rdrector wrote:

That last part ? So the dealer can then pass the problem on to some unsuspecting buyer, WOW your a gem. Remember what goes around comes around.

If you think a dealer is going to point out flaws on a used TT's you have your head in the sand. If you trade something in, it is up to the dealer to inspect, as you when making a purchase. I did not say cover it up, or defraud, I said keep your mouth shut and don't point it out. I see you are a saint though "666."

My user name has nothing to do with My morals, If the dealer doesn’t know he has less chance of fixing it. Some dealers do the right thing and if they don’t it’s on them. Treat people the way you want to be treated or the way you might want them to treat your children.

This would be an interesting job, and I think a guy with good skills could handle it. But I don't think it can be done without installing a new rubber roof.

I would begin just as if doing a new rubber roof. Pull the edging back around the entire perimeter. Pay attention to how they assembled the drip rails and sealant.

As for getting to the rafter ends, I don't think it is necessary to pull the entire sheathing off. Find each rafter and cut a window a few inches square out of the sheathing. How are the rafters attached to the wall caps? Probably just screwed, and that is failing again, maybe the rafters are splitting? Consider an alternative such as hurricane clamp style. Stimson might even make something that will work.

Then patch in the holes you cut. I always thought that if I had my rubber roof off (of just about any trailer) I would lay another layer of sheathing down, because the roofs are always barely adequate to begin with. Another 3/8" would feel great.

At that point, it's back to just being a rubber roof job. You could even hire out just that portion if you wanted, which really is the more critical aspect of the job. Or go with one of the membrane roof alternatives.