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dfrank's avatar
dfrank
Explorer
Feb 05, 2017

rotted tie down point, how to fix?

I have a '98 Fleetwood Caribou.

I knew it had some water damage when I got it, but it is worse than I thought.

The bottoms of the side rails are delaminating, but also the framing member that one of the tie downs mounts is failing, It also has one area where there was a leak in the roof, where the rim joist has rotted out.

What would be involved in peeling apart the layers to add a new framing member to mount the tie down to?

Is this thing really framed out of just 1x members? I was going to cover the delaminated bottoms with some sheet metal, but the failing mount is really the bigger problem.

Thanks,

4 Replies

  • I had this issue with my RV. Dealers will charge you a lot of money. I would call the guy at delamrepair.com. He is pretty knowledgeable and helped me figure it out.
  • I had the same issue (purchased a TC from a guy on Long Island, the TC sat thru hurricane Sandy). Peeled back the AL siding and pulled out 1 to 1.5 gallons of bad wood that looked like black mulch! On 3 of the 4 corners. Cut out all I could and glued and screwed solid wood back in. Held up fine.

    Sold it for a TT a year and a half later.
  • As with any project dealing with rotted wood, whether that be a house, a chicken house, or a camper, to do it right you have to keep removing the rot until you can finally built off something that's still solid. In a camper (of any kind), that could be quite an endeavor. If all you want is a spot to mount the jack, who knows how far "back" you'll need to go to reach solid materials.

    To do the job will be an act of love for sure. You'll need a dry cover over your head, and somewhere you can stow the camper while working on it and leave it for a while. Once you open the skin and start pealing it back, you don't want the camper outside exposed to more weather. If you have somewhere under cover to do the work, it can be done. Many, many other folks have restored, rebuilt campers of all sorts. I helped my in-laws restore (and I mean gut out and rebuild) a 1970's Scottie TT. When done, it was a cute little trailer. They lived on a farm, had a nice barn to work in and it still took over a year. My father-in-law was a carpenter by trade. He had his own company and they did everything from foundations to installing the bird house in the middle of the back yard. So he knew what he was getting into. I come from a long history of carpentry and building skills also. And still, working on the camper took a year with both our heads together. The important thing was, we didn't rush anything, and when we ran into a situation we weren't sure about, we'd stop and think it through before proceeding. Sometimes it came easy, sometimes it was a nightmare to figure out. But we did it.

    What I'm saying is, the number one thing you need is a space to do the work, and the number 2 thing is time, and the number 3 thing is money, and the number 4 thing is the skill to do it. If you have all these thing, yes, you can do it, if you make it a labor of love project!
  • I've dealt with that by making better jack brackets. The "right" way to fix it is to pull the skin off and rebuild the frame, a project that will always snowball into a really big deal. If you're paying someone to do the work, the camper won't be worth it.

    What I've always done is make brackets that are like the originals but also have a few feet of angle iron running back down the sides, and a large plate that screws to the front wall. That speaads the load out over a lot more area. I've also run steel down the sides connecting the front and rear jack mounts, and across the front connecting the left and right fronts.
    If that won't hold it, the camper is done!

    This isn't actually "fixing" the damage but it's an effective "save" for old campers that just aren't worth putting too much into. And it's pretty easy too. If you of any of your buddies haven't got a welder, go to a local welder and you should pay much to have this stuff made. It's ultra simple.

    Here's a shorter one I made a while back:


    And here's 1x3 steel (painted white) connecting my front and rear brackets. I put flanges on the ends of it so it bolts to the corner brackets. That way it's removable for whatever reason.