Forum Discussion
AnEv942
Apr 19, 2014Nomad
My first thought was the PWM might have kept me from removing our furnace. Simply used way too much battery and when 110v still just obnoxiously loud. Our Atwood rated at 55 watts/4.6 amps, the fan roared.
At first the PWM sounds like it might solve both- turn down amp use and slow down so it doesn't roar.
Could be though to keep sail switch open might not be enough to make worthwhile amp wise or quieten? Though for $7 worth the try, but someone needs to do some testing. Other thing to consider is how much (if you can enough to matter) slow down and still draw enough air thru so as not to over heat the exchanger?
Id be measuring temps, amp draw & heating cycles and sheet metal temps of box before mod, Then check afterwards results. Especially box temps- as fan is what distributes the heat it also keeps the sheet metal cool (and why all the safety redundancy on the fan).
At first the PWM sounds like it might solve both- turn down amp use and slow down so it doesn't roar.
Could be though to keep sail switch open might not be enough to make worthwhile amp wise or quieten? Though for $7 worth the try, but someone needs to do some testing. Other thing to consider is how much (if you can enough to matter) slow down and still draw enough air thru so as not to over heat the exchanger?
Id be measuring temps, amp draw & heating cycles and sheet metal temps of box before mod, Then check afterwards results. Especially box temps- as fan is what distributes the heat it also keeps the sheet metal cool (and why all the safety redundancy on the fan).
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