RV Stabilizer Positioning

myredracer wrote:
If you have electric stabilizer jacks, if you have some at home, you could try a couple of screw or bottle jacks at the rear and see what that does. The elec. stab. jacks really move around a lot. If the jacks don't do enough, then you need the diagonal braces. I think for elec. stab. jacks you need two at the front and two at front to get it solidly triangulated. We spent a lot of $$ to get elec. stab. jacks only to find out how much they move. The thought of having to spend another $250-300 for stabilizers for the "stabilizer" jacks is frustrating.

If you have manual scissor jacks, just one brace at front and rear should be all you need.

A jack under the frame on each side at the axles can help a lot.

Instead of buying a set of six stabilizers, I would try just a pair of them, at least at first. As suggested above, one at front and one at rear. BAL sells them by the pair or pack of six. There's 4 or 5 manufacturers of these but am not sure if they sell them by the pair only. If you have X-chocks, I don't think fore/aft braces will make for much of a noticeable improvement.

If you find just screw or bottle jacks are doing enough, they sell aluminum stacking jacks for TTs.

I do have the manual scissor jacks and I agree with your above bolded statement.

I am leaning toward the Bal Lock-Arm b/c they are sold in pairs and they are considerably cheaper than the other systems.

I'm still torn on the best way to install them. I'm pretty sure that I will purchase two sets (4 stabilizers). I have considered installing all 4 going side to side. However, I'm wondering how it would work if I installed them on opposite corners with one pair installed on one rear corner for both side to side and front to rear and then another set on the front opposite corner, same relation. It seems that this way would support the triangulation theories.