Securing Accordion Door Latch

Thanks for the tip! :)

I had the same problem and DID use velcro. I removed the small post and used a nice brown velcro on the wood and a white on the accordion door. I used five small sections, about 1.5" long each evenly spaced along the door. Holds very well and IS NOT hard to open the door. You can use even smaller peices if opening is a problem for you. Using a colored velcro it is not even noticable when the accordion door is open.

mlts22 wrote:
I wonder about Velcro. Done right, it should hold the door closed, although you will have to pry it open from the top or bottom, or wiggle it left/right.

My door and window curtains are held in place (too well) by velcro, and can sometimes be a hassle to detach. You have to pull with quite a bit of force, and it feels as if you are going to rip the velcro off the wall.

I wonder about Velcro. Done right, it should hold the door closed, although you will have to pry it open from the top or bottom, or wiggle it left/right.

the accordian door in our rig would not stay closed Found that if you back off the screw (loosen) it worked perfectly

I appreciate the responses, thanks! I think I may try to figure out a system with some super strong magnets.

My front bedroom has a 20" doorway opening with an accordion door. The plastic closure post was attached to the wall and I was always gouging my side on it when going through the door. I removed it and put it in the silverware drawer for safe keeping until I figured a fix. I am thinking about cutting slots in the door edge at the top and bottom and mounting magnetic door closures at the slots and screwing the plates to the wall. Haven't found any closures I like yet that I feel are strong enough to hold the door closed.

I had to flip the bunkhouse door 180 degrees for the same reason. The door was mounted to the cabinet and next to the fridge door and the post was mounted to the edge of the bunkhouse door. It left a 20 inch opening. When I flipped the door I mounted a 1 x 2 oak stud to the edge of the bunks and added a small wood block to the ceiling above the top bunk to support the top of the stud. I attached the door to the new stud and mounted the post next to the fridge door. So now when open the door is behind the bunk house wall and I have a 24 inch wide opening. I also used a new ceiling track I got from the trailer manufacturer that was 36 inches long and cut it to suit since the door needed a longer track.

So far the bunk house door is staying shut, but it doesn't get used a lot. If there is any future problem I was going to add a couple camming cabinet latches since the parts mounted to the cabinet would not stick out past the fridge door.

The accordian door in our previous TT used to pop out and detach from the post on the wall. The post seemed too small for the hole in the door, and the edge of the accordian door did not sit flush with the wall (one or both was slightly warped). So unscrewed the post a turn or two from the wall so it stuck outfurther, and then I wrapped some electrical tape around the post which made it a much tighter fit in the door latch and it no longer popped out.

I can't say I ever liked the accordian door - it never really provided any privacy or kept out light, since it was a white color. My new TT has black out curtains, which keeps it really dark in the bedroom. Makes it easier to sleep in later. But the curtains don't cut down on sound either. One of the TT models we were looking at had the sliding wood doors, which I would have preferred, but we didn't end up choosing that model for other reasons.

I took the little post off and turned it around. Sanded a bit of taper around the edge that was to the wall and put it back on reversed. Seems to work.

A strip of plastic with a snap on one end works on my accordion door.