Set up ok?

So just one more question. Tongue weight is our real sticking point. Is a person able to control it by how they load the trailer? I mean, if we do it right can we get a tongue weight of 15 percent of the loaded trailer's weight? Because with a smaller trailer, 15 percent of a fully loaded 6000 lb ultra lite puts us within our trucks payload (and allows us all to ride in it too, haha).

I towed with my 1/2 ton based vehicle loaded up to max for many thousands of miles. It worked fine. I have towed the same load with my 3/4 ton based vehicle many thousands of miles. Does it tow better, absolutely. Is there anything wrong with towing with the 1/2 ton, absolutely not. As a matter of fact, If my wife would let me I would go back to the loaded to the max 1/2 ton for many reasons. The most important reason being that a 1/2 ton would be better "for me" for my reasons, not yours. The point being, nothing wrong with towing at or near your limits (but not over). Nothing wrong with towing with lots of cushion either. Choose what works best for you.

OhHolly wrote:
Thanks for all the info. We know dry and unloaded weights are not representative of what we are going to actually be towing, and it would appear that our payload is our problem.

We will be cutting it close, and it stinks that we can't for sure know the tongue weight. Likely the trailer will be too much.

We are considering another trailer that loaded would be around 5800-6000lbs. From experience, does anyone know their tongue weight on a loaded trailer of around that weight?

A WAG would be 12 to 15 percent, but the question is how far off your WAG of 5800 to 6000 is since historically folks have been surprised at how much more their trailer actually weighs when they final get it to the CAT scales. Anywho 12 to 15 of 6K would be 720 to 900lbs and my money would be closer to 900lbs. That sort of still leaves you in the dilemna of running around with minimal passenger cargo and a basically empty bed and that includes no topper/shell, bed liner, bikes, extra coolers etc. unless you put them into the trailer and then your initial WAG grows to unknown numbers.

I know I might get taken to the woodshed so to speak on what I'm going to say next, but .... I think the real issue with ALMOST ALL (there are a few exceptions like the F-150 HD and the 2500 Burbs), 1/2T based vehicles are designed more for the urban cowboys and soccer moms and are made to ride more like a car than to be used an a working truck. Thus you find lighter springs, softer shocks and P-rated tires and unless you fix all their shortcommings when you load them up to very close to their max spec they ride even worse than a much heavier duty vehicle. Now days even the heavier duty vehicles unloaded ride is a lot different from what I understand than those older trucks, but people are still stuck on not wanting an actual TRUCK. Unfortunately you can't have your cake and eat it to for the most part, again with a very few exceptions.

Larry

Try this calculator, it may help you do the math. Calculator

Thanks for all the info. We know dry and unloaded weights are not representative of what we are going to actually be towing, and it would appear that our payload is our problem.

We will be cutting it close, and it stinks that we can't for sure know the tongue weight. Likely the trailer will be too much.

We are considering another trailer that loaded would be around 5800-6000lbs. From experience, does anyone know their tongue weight on a loaded trailer of around that weight?

A real world example -

My "brochure" weights unloaded weight=6035 and tongue weight=650

CAT scale weights trailer ready to go=7,000 and tongue weight=900

Brochure weights are very inaccurate and dealers don't know much about trailer towing or vehicle specs/capacities. They're in the business of selling trailers and saying "you can't tow it" won't help make the sale.

I think the OP's need a better understanding of their TV's "capacities". Payload will be reached or exceeded before tow capacity. I looked up the brochure specs on this TT and the dry hitch weight is listed at 600 lbs, but even if true, I'm not sure why the OP would be using dry hitch weight to determine capacities.

Unless you are planning an weighing every item you bring aboard, there is no way you can say "We don't plan on ever putting more than x,xxx lbs in it".

If you are calculating weights, you multiply gross TT weight by 13%, so in this case 7750 * 13% = 1007.5. Add in appx 100 lbs for WDH and then the weight of everything else you plan on putting in the truck, then subtract from your payload number. Keep in mind that the factory number is decreased by accessories put on after the fact like step bars.

If you want to take the guess work out of it, then load up the truck as you would for camping - including a full tank of gas and get it weighed - Google CAT scale locator to find one near you.

Pulling a high walled trailer down the road in an overloaded TV, you will come to realize that it's not fun, and you won't want to go far. Tow capacity is determined at the manufacturer by towing a flat trailer with weights and a 150 lb driver.

Since calculating weights is not giving you a big cushion to be worry free, I strongly suggest getting your TT's actual scale weight. Good luck.

If you are committed to that truck/trailer combination then at least spend the $ on an Equalizer brand hitch to match the loaded tongue weight of the trailer. They sell various torsion bars to match the weight (ie 800, 1000, 1200 1400 lbs etc). They are a 4 way system that distributes tongue weight and helps dissipate sway. See below

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/

Payload ratings are important to follow. Sometimes passing rigs and cross winds become the greater enemy to long/tall rv's. Watch for sway and understand what it is and how to minimize it and stop it when it happens. Camping should be fun and driving white knuckled is far from fun.

Daryll

Equalize is a great hitch. ! I love ours. You are within ratings. Issue will be yoyr "comfort" level. And your trucks enjoyment of towung that weight, transmission temps, etc. We started wuth a 150, big v8, hd tow package, whole 9 yds. Trans would boil, tuner would flash red halfway through a trip temps were so high, amd that was with a trans cooler.

So yep...now we are in a 250 diesel. Couldn't be happier. Really is a night and day difference. Can you do it with current truck...yes. will you enjoy it, no, it will be more stressful. Not from sway, you are getting a great hitch. Just overall pulling.

Let me tell you about brochure weights.

Mine was listed at 935 lbs and that supposedly included the generator. I thought, no problem. My payload is 2000 lbs. That tongue weight ended up being 1380 lbs and I was overloading my receiver. I had to upgrade it to a Torklift and I will upgrade my truck in the near future. Yes, I have a toy hauler and the tongue weights are much heavier, but the point is, "Do not trust salesmen or brochures for weight." It's going to be heavier. If I had to do it over again, I'd make them prove the actual tongue weight of the trailer before I bought it.