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taycotrains's avatar
taycotrains
Explorer
Oct 07, 2017

Should I switch out the tires ???

Last November I put a full set of 19.5 Cooper Roadmasters on my 2011 F-250 crew cab long bed and Vision rims to replace a set of factory 17 inch bullet hole aluminum wheels and tires.The camper weighed 3680 dry and was starting to give me problems so I dumped it and we bought a 2016 leftover Camp Lite 9.2 this camper weighs 3360 with all of our stuff in it food generator linens and odds and ends.(empty tanks)

The camper aside from looking really stupid on a 8 foot truck just doesn't feel right going down the road so I ordered a 2017 F-350 crew cab short bed SRW.The truck will be here around the end of the month and will have factory 18 inch wheels.

I ordered a XL with a STX upgrade so it has some chrome and nicer wheels so do you think I should bother to put the visions on the new truck ?

The Coopers have a annoying sing on the highway and at 70 mph the truck has noticeable quiver that I cant fix despite getting the tires balanced twice.

I'm already dreading drilling holes in the springs so I can use my Stableloads(why Ford stopped putting those holes in the springs is beyond me) and I ordered a set and received new a set of Torklift tie downs and from what I read the ones on the front are PITA to install on the front of these new box frame trucks.

I'm just trying to keep the aggravation down to a minimum and if I can get by with the factory wheels I would like too.

14 Replies

  • As everyone says here, the process is somewhat precarious, and anything you can do to prep things best as possible before you are laying on your back under the truck is time well spent. For me, given you have to line up four bolts/holes on several different planes without knocking the fished bolts back through the frame holes, my main suggestion would be to prep the one 2" x 2" spacer onto the tiedown beforehand by super gluing it to the tiedown bracket. If Torklift needs a spacer at that point, it should be tack welded to the bracket right out of the box. Wrestling with all the above while the spacer is sliding around on you (as I did when installing the first side) is yet another degree of freedom you don't need when trying to execute this task. Good luck with your outcome.
  • I was putting tie-downs on my 2017 F350 last March.
    The only problem was that the brackets were overflown with powder coating, what partly filled up holes.
    Bad moment to find that bolt is not fitting into the hole when you are under the truck, holding fished bolt with one hand and bracket with other.
    Inspect the tie-downs well before installation.
    My new dually is holding 6500lb camper without modifications, but you will have to see how your set up works.
    Did you order diesel truck? Even with 3.55 differential the beast can pull 14k-16k combos on 6% grades without dropping down from 6th gear, so I would not mind bigger wheels for fuel saving alone.
  • I think I'd try it first too. I was surprised to see the missing holes in the springs as well. I just plan to install the upper stable loads, I had both on the 2012 truck but prefer the uppers.

    The tiedown install I think is different on the short bed, I believe the biggest issue is you have to break loose the bolt on the spring perch... hopefully I'm not getting it mixed up. On the long bed it wasn't too bad except you had to use 4 bolt fishers at once to fish bolts into the frame. Getting them all lined up and not losing the bolts was a bit of trouble but I got them installed in under an hour. I found my Milwaukee cordless impact was helpful.