Forum Discussion

camperbums's avatar
camperbums
Explorer
Aug 23, 2013

Skid Wheels for low camper

We recently purchased a used 2009 Keystone Passport 300BH and have problems at times with the back of the trailer "dragging" on certain inclines or hilly places. Anyone else with a 300BH had problems with this and would you have any recommendations for us? Has anyone used skid wheels installed on the back to avoid scraping the asphalt? Any advice appreciated.
  • I don’t believe there’s any way that reducing you clearance even with rollers that is less stressful on anything other than you mind…
    The drag bars have a primary purpose, and that is to alert you of impending danger, stop you so you can readjust your approach or change the route all together…
    They alert by making the loud objectionable noise of metal dragging…

    If you fail to adjust they are designed to be the sacrificial lamb and will bend before damaging the frame…

    The rollers in the picture above ensure the drag bars will be sacrificed sooner though may not hurt anything either…

    Any rollers wheels designed to hold the rear of the trailer off the road can only increase the risk of dragging sooner and the following damage occurring sooner…

    If the trailer is to low check for weak or worn suspension, frames that have lost their camber, under inflated tires, or poor design from the mfg.…
    If it’s just too low for no good reason there are acceptable ways to raise them…
  • 2012Coleman wrote:
    Bill & Kate - Do you have a link for these?


    These guys sell all different kinds, but they are available other places as well. Lots of options:

    PAK Industries
  • Our last trailer was a Jayco JayFeather LGT 29N and sat quite low to the ground. It had built in skid bars to protect the bottom of the back end, but we added some wheels. Yes it did lower the clearance an additional couple of inches, but the wheels would roll instead of just dragging and I think it was less stress on the frame. The trailer had torsion axles and 14" wheels, and raising it would have involved fabricating some kind of bracket to lower the spot where the axles mounted, changing the two sets of steps from single to double, and replacing all four stabilizing jacks. These were a cheaper, easier solution.

  • I'm not a fan of adding rollers or skid bars / plates at RV's rear. These items often add 1" - 2" depth and will make the dragging problem worse. Best is to lift the trailer a little higher.

    As a suggestion, take your RV to a few welding shops in your area. (Google search is great for finding welding shops in one's area). They will view / understand your RV's current suspension parts and recommend different ways (or best way) to raise your trailer a few more inches higher. This could be simply drilling new holes in existing steel hangers. Or, re-position the axles under the leaf packs and/or doing both. re: Raise 6", then lower down 3" with new holes in hanger brackets. Or, they might even suggest a lift kit / spacer tubes - if this is better.
  • Some have used skids but I personally haven't. First thing to look at is the trailer sitting level or slightly nose down? If the nose is high it will drag the rear.