small electrical charge on truck camper frame

Interesting but mine turned out to be a bad converter.

I am posting this as being a possible source of the OPs "Hot Skin":

A quote from another thread:

"Again, just because I could, I parked my 28 Ft Class C under a 6KV single phase line (about 20 feet in height) and measured a very steady 62 VAC RMS (88 VAC peak) from the chassis bumper to Earth using a 10 MegOhm input VOM. This Class C has a rubber roof and non conductive walls (other then metal frame work imbedded in the walls, I think)."

And yes, the there was NO shore power cable connected, this was a deliberate attempt to demonstrate the capacitive coupling between the 6KV line and the RV when said RV was NOT grounded through a shore power cord or any other conductive path to EARTH.

Holy smokes...that's an antique!

Give Randy a call at bestconverter...he'll help you out.

A proper 3 stage converter will be small $, well spent...

B

That's a magnatec converter right , its old school tech , and will boil your batterys anyway, In my 97` lance I disabled it and put a prog dyn 9145a stand alone type converter with a charge wizard dongle in next to the battery , all you need is a outlet to plug it into , adjustable and smart charging , wont harm the batts and can be left on for storage

Okay I think I have it pinned down to the converter itself for real.

This is what the outside of my converter metal box reads. Over 59 Volts. I have the one end stuck in the ground of the outlet the other attached to the converter box.





You can't tell from this picture but my gismo is blinking and chirping like mad anywhere withen 5 inches of the metal box.



So the way I have it figured is when the converter breaker is on the twelve volt system will back feed into the converter and that is why it happened on the road not connected to shore power. When on shore power I am running just over 60 volts AC to the metal in the camper. I think that could be dangerous. What say you all? Also what do you think of my summation of whats going on. I also did the voltage test with the converter unplugged and there was no voltage in the line. I did that just to be sure where the voltage was coming from which is the converter box. Also now I no why I could not make it act up when I removed the converter box from the housing so it was not touching metal.

Finally would you try to repair this converter or replace.

All opinions welcome and appreciated.

I remember about 20 years ago , I put a lick it type dog water deal on a faucet on my front deck , my GSD wouldn't use it even though she had used it elsewhere all her life. I finally grabbed hold of it and made water come out and got a weak elec charge , seams there was a nail on the deck apron going through a romex slightly and then touching the copper water pipe
Luck I caught it before the shock therapy ad her off the lickit for good

billtex wrote:

Reddog1 wrote:
I am just shaking my head. Over 12 years on this Forum, and never heard of this being an issue. I respectfully gotta say, I think this is being blown way out of proportion. The theory may be correct, but is it really a reality? Can someone post the number of injuries they have witnessed, or maybe the number of deaths?

I do not mean this post to Flame anyone, or be a Troll. Just looking for a little reality check.

Wayne

Actually Wayne...I had the same thing happen.
Traced it back to the 30 amp plug...the ground pin was faulty.

I noticed the "trickle charge" as I was airing up my tires. Every time I touched the metal wheel cover I got a little tingle...

Fixed the ground...all set.

I am pretty sure it is a similar issue here...bad ground.

Bill

I have to agree. Take a volt meter and put one on the skin and stab the other into the ground with the voltmeter on the AC setting. If you get more than 1-2 volts, you have a ground issue. In mine, I had 37 volts AC on the skin and it turned out to be a bad ground behind the wall where the external lead connects. Yes it did shock the he** out of you if you touched it barefoot.

I know this sounds less complex than all the testing methods here, but there's one thing this could be that will 'baffle' all this kind if testing.

If a screw goes thru a hot-wire and into the frame (like any screw that attaches a component to the wall, or a panel, anything like that, it will generate power thru that frame to any component it touches ... so, some metal will feel 'charged' and some won't, if there is no contact between one piece or another.

SO, that is one very difficult thing to track, but it happened on a house, and it charged the gutters and metal flashing ... we eventually found a long screw that punched thru a piece of siding and screwed thru a piece of 110v wire in the house wall. Our electrician found it with a meter (not sure what) but he tracked it very quickly and removed the screw ... end of 'tingles' when you touched the gutters.

Geewizard wrote:
I think this is the solution to my "secure generator compartment door" post! Once the OP figures out how his "tingle" is occurring, I'll replicate it, bump up the current, and my generator will be safe!

That would be in regard to my portable generator in the side mounted compartment behind a flimsy aluminum door with a key everyone has already......Sleepy. LOL!

That's thinking!
A Faraday/high voltage/generator security/flux capacitor system!

Could probably make your toast too...

I think this is the solution to my "secure generator compartment door" post! Once the OP figures out how his "tingle" is occurring, I'll replicate it, bump up the current, and my generator will be safe!

That would be in regard to my portable generator in the side mounted compartment behind a flimsy aluminum door with a key everyone has already......Sleepy. LOL!