soft spot not getting bigger, concern?

I'd suggest you perform a pressurized leak test. It will turn up any pinholes or leak spots that remain. You can DIY or look for a Sealtech authorized tester in your area.

Wow....Well first the camper you found online, yes that is what we have. The cargo hold in front, I thought that it was the weather stripping around the door, fixed that, recaulked all around the hatch and every other thing in the door of the hatch, next we went up on the roof and redid the caulking at the top seam. The cargo hatch is completely dry, has been all summer. As for the camper itself, we have never noticed any leaks around the entry door. We did find some small holes in the caulking on the roof around the front and rear seam and also around the TV antenna. Recaulked all of that, there is absolutely no smell inside the camper, in fact, ever since the recaulking we have noticed a rather pleasant non smell if that makes any sense. We also put a few containers of the RidX moisture absorbers in and they show very little if any moisture in them. We have been storing the camper beside the house this past summer, it sits on concrete but is not covered and we have kept the vents and windows ever so slightly cracked, just enough to let air in but no water. Freezing is not an issue since we are in Florida. It does get kinda cold in the panhandle for a few nights in January and maybe even February but when it does, we plug the camper in and have the furnace set to 40 degrees. Like I say, I really feel good about no more leaks. The soft spots have not gotten any bigger all summer but I was wondering if I should even worry about them.

Thanks for all of the help so far, I appreciate it.

We need to make sure we understand where the leak is/was and what was fixed. You said pin holes in the roof, soft floor and now there is a leak in the front compartment.

The front cargo hole

rydabyk wrote:

I know we had water in our front hatch after heavy rains and we also had some water along the wall inside by the door. Camping World (where we bought the trailer new in 2012, a Winnebago 30RE) repaired the wall that was showing slight "bubbles", what they actually did was put a new wall over the old one.

They said it was fixed, yea.....well, we continued finding water in the front hatch,

NOTE: Is this 2 leaks or one? Did you have water in the front cargo hole AND water coming in the entry door? Please confirm. Can read your words to mean the door by the front cargo hole, but maybe not.

What wall did they find "bubbles" on they covered up? Front cargo hole or by the entry door?


Then you went up on looked on the roof

checked on the roof and found some small pin holes in the caulking around the TV antenna, and along the seam in the front. Replaced all of the caulking, every thing is dry but now there are some small soft spots on the floor.

Then back to the front cargo hole

They have not got any bigger over the past summer. We keep the trailer stored outside beside our house. We pulled up the vinyl floor in the hatch and it was put on top of 1/4" plywood, I'm assuming (Yea, I know) the floor is that way through out. We pulled one of the heat vents on the floor but could not tell if the floor was the same since they are "ducted". I really don't want to pull up the vinyl if I don't have to but...

Trying to make sure we get this right, the water leak "first" was in the front cargo hole and from this leak you found the soft floor by the sink?

The pin holes in the "caulking" (not the rubber roof) was found when you where on the hunt for a leak as the front cargo hole still gets water inside?

Did we understand this correct?

The 2 or maybe 3 events may not be connected or they might be.

Rubber roof caulk will over time start to split. This split or holes start out as real fine line, paper thin tears. Over time they open up more and in areas of freezing temps, water gets in, freezes and the split gets wider. High heat may have issues too, I'm from the mid west and we have the freeze/thaw but folks in AZ may have the other problem of high heat then cool and the expansion and contraction creates a split. After a few times of this the split is real wide and then water can get in. This roof caulk has to be looked at with a hawks eye at least 2 times a year, spring coming out of winter and fall going into winter. And even then 4 times a years look is not a bad thing either. When ever you see "any" split,crack, hole of any size, fix it right then and there. When they start they can be harmless, very small and not very deep, but as they grow in size, issues come. Key to get then when they are harmless as they only get bigger.

That said, the roof caulking "might" not have anything to do with the leak. We/you really need to rule this in or out. If you have a real roof leak, wet insulation inside is not a good thing.

Now to the cargo hole. Any chance of some pics of the cargo hole and the added wall board?

1/4" plywood flooring material I hope is only in the cargo hole and not used as walk on surface with no other support under it. Is the 1/4" plywood directly on the floor joints or is it over some kind of composite filler that 100% supports it?

Cargo holes have been notorious for leaks at times. How is the door gasket material and does the door wiggle when locked? The door must slightly compress 100% of the seal material or it may leak. A way to check is at night, place a bright light inside, close up the door and look for a light leak. Wiggle the door. If light is coming out, water can get in.

OK I tried to find your floor plan. I found this, is this your camper?
http://www.colerainrv.com/rv/cincinnati+oh/winnebago+traveltrailer/10012/winnebago+one+30re

If it is, is the leaking cargo hole up front the one under the bed and only has a center baggage door handle latch? I have seen some of these new single baggage style door warp around the center. The 2 ends bow up. And this was on brand new units on the lot... Check if yours is warped and do the light test.

And is the soft spot in the floor in front of the sink?

This is almost a 35 foot camper with the kitchen past the center of the camper. The cargo hole may be some 15 to 18 feet from the sink area.

Trying to figure out if your cargo hole leak and the soft floor 15 to 18 feet away are coming from the same problem. OR the entry door is next to the soft spot. Need some feedback from you.

If you have a wet water issue, wet wood stinks. I mean this literally. It smells damp, musty, moldy pure yuk. Dry woods smells like, well wood but not musty. If you sniff real close to a suspect area, that musty smell can come through some times.Once you have dealt with camper rot you will never forget that stink.

They also sell moisture meters. Not that expensive, they have 2 prongs on them and a meter. You stick it into the wood or object and it measures the amount of dampness. They range in price. Here is one http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-Digital-Moisture-Meter-with-LCD-Display-MMD4E/100651808 These sometimes helps sort out what is and is not wet.

Hope this helps

John

Wow, this may sound really stupid but ....I know we had water in our front hatch after heavy rains and we also had some water along the wall inside by the door. Camping World (where we bought the trailer new in 2012, a Winnebago 30RE) repaired the wall that was showing slight "bubbles", what they actually did was put a new wall over the old one. They said it was fixed, yea.....well, we continued finding water in the front hatch, checked on the roof and found some small pin holes in the caulking around the TV antenna, and along the seam in the front. Replaced all of the caulking, every thing is dry but now there are some small soft spots on the floor. They have not got any bigger over the past summer. We keep the trailer stored outside beside our house. We pulled up the vinyl floor in the hatch and it was put on top of 1/4" plywood, I'm assuming (Yea, I know) the floor is that way through out. We pulled one of the heat vents on the floor but could not tell if the floor was the same since they are "ducted". I really don't want to pull up the vinyl if I don't have to but... I hope this makes some sense. Thanks!!!

Hi, we need to know more about the leak, who did the repair, tell us what they took apart inside the camper and if you know is your camper a wood stud or aluminum construction? Do you have fiberglass sides or aluminum? Is the camper stored outside or under cover when not in use? How old is the camper? Any idea on time length of when the leak was noticed to when it was repaired?

We are trying to get a handle on how your camper is built and how far or not the person who fixed it went to help answer your questions. Those of us who have been through leak repair know some of the things to look for and what it will take to do the repair. But we cannot see your camper and we need to know more about it.

I picked up on these statements and still trying to sort out the leak, where it started and now where you are seeing the soft spots.

rydabyk wrote:

So, we discovered a smallish soft spot in our TT,

we know the leak is fixed and the spot does not seem to be getting any larger. Should we still be concerned about it?

The spot is near the kitchen sink but does not extend under the sink or any cabinets

It's not super soft but the floor does give a little when you walk over it.

We had a few pin hole leaks in the roof but they have since been repaired.

Connecting those dots, we sort of know this

1. The leak started in the roof, (maybe)

2. The damage does not go under the sink area, at least above the floor line

3. There is a soft spot on the floor.

4. Someone fixed something, don't know what they did for the fix or to what they checked where the leak may have spread too.

Tiny pin holes in a roof, h'mm is this a rubber roof or an older camper aluminum roof? Pin holes in a rubber roof are not common on a newer vintage camper. Cracked sealant letting water in, is very common. Or a missed step at the factory can create water entry in a short time in the field. And then there is the inadequate methods of some parts of the RV industry on how to keep water out of a camper over a long time period.

If there was a roof leak, water flows down hill. If you have a soft spot in the floor, how did the water get there? What path did the water travel to end up under the flooring tile or rug to get to that spot? And more so, what did the person repairing the camper take apart and check to know they found the source and all the damage in the flow path of the water?

Not trying to scare you to death... just help show you where to go looking. Sometimes with a leak, you get lucky if you found it and stop it within days of it starting. If the leak was from months ago to a year ago and then found, these can have larger needs for interior rebuild. More often, signs of a leak inside the camper can show up a long time after the leak ever started. It is not uncommon to see rot that started over a year ago, to just show up inside as wrinkled wall paper.

Hope this helps

John

Post up what year, make, model so someone can identify what type of floor you have.

It sounds like you may have a composite floor, two pieces of sheeting with a foam insulation board sandwiched between. If that is the type of floor you have, they are more difficult to repair as the whole structure needs to be replaced. If you have a single wood sheet across joists, the repair is easier.

The spot is near the kitchen sink but does not extend under the sink or any cabinets. It's not super soft but the floor does give a little when you walk over it. We had a few pin hole leaks in the roof but they have since been repaired.

Where is said soft spot?