Solar options for a Fun Finder/TT

Robin, by using the TV batteries to boost the TT batteries, aren't you concerned that you will drain the TV and then it won't start? Also, the TV batteries are not deep cycle -- are they designed to be drained down and then recharged? I am speaking from ignorance here, so if that is a naive question, please forgive me.

Also, do you connect all four batteries with the jumpers? I am not sure how to do that -- could you take a picture or maybe a photo of a sketch? Thanks!!

save your money
we camp without hookups 70 % of the time
we have no solar .
we have no generator.
we park our trailer .
we turn our diesel pickup around .
we use HEAVY DUTY 12 foot jumper cables to connect all 4 batteries together to run the 12V in the trailer .
the duramax gets driven every 2nd or 3rd day .
its batteries get fully recharged .
as soon as we return we hook up the jumpers again .
the 4 batteries basically equalize .
we camp maximum 9 days in a row utilizing this method .
been doing this for 15 years .
we do make sure when we leave home that we have fully charged RV batteries .
mostly by plugging the TT in to 120V for the day prior while packing .
when we return to home we plug the TT into 120V again .
when we park the trailer I fully disconnect the RV batteries from the TT system . I do make sure they are fully charged .
i have installed AGM batteries Exide EDGE in my pickup .
the trailer batts are the standard 12 volt tandems .
two 6 volt GC2 batteries would be a good upgrade .
i am waiting to see a deal on AGM batteries on a true DEEP CYCLE RV battery .
I would rather spend the money on good Exide Edge AGM batteries for my pickup that i drive most days than on an expensive solar panel for my trailer which sits 333 days each year .
an upgrade in batteries will be more efficient .
2 big golf cart GC2 batts for the RV and AGM batteries for the tow vehicle.

http://www.parrisrv.com/floorplan_view.php?url=http://www.uvsconsole.com/manager/admin/cp-floorplans/large/135161095577727.jpg&rental=&year=2013&manu=Cruiser RV&brand=Funfinder&model=F-210UDS&brochure=

Trouble is guessing where the protrusions are.

Here is a modest system to compare:
2x 120w panels $307

20a PWM controller $77

50' MC4 cable to connect $44 Cut this in half. Connectors to the panel, cut ends to the controller. Plug and play. If you need longer they will custom make any length or just buy the 100' cable.

Some wire and fuse to the battery and you are all set.

If you want to go bigger or max it out I suggest a series system with 24v panels and MPPT controller. Going to depend on the roof space. Don't cram it in too much as even a small corner of shade from a vent, A/C, or antenna will severely reduce output.

smkettner wrote:
We need a pic of your roof with dimensions so we know what can fit :B
And what is the budget? $500?


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TBH, budget is not an issue. I'm figuring around $1000 if I need to. My piece of mind is worth that.

This is my floor plan: http://www.parrisrv.com/floorplan_view.php?url=http://www.uvsconsole.com/manager/admin/cp-floorplans/large/135161095577727.jpg&rental=&year=2013&manu=Cruiser RV&brand=Funfinder&model=F-210UDS&brochure=

I think I might just go into the shop and ask them what I need. Thanks for all the advise. You guys have been great!

We need a pic of your roof with dimensions so we know what can fit :B
And what is the budget? $500?


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If your just looking for some energy assurance with a 2 battery bank and not planning on increasing your power usage significantly your solar system can be pretty simple. Without knowing your specific needs but knowing you use 2 batteries a good estimate would be 200W solar (2 100W panels wired in parrelel) and good charge controller. Wiring is simple: Panels to controller and controller direct to batteries. System will then operate automatically with very little required from you except to occasional check to see it is working properly and to water the batteries. Get a decent charge controller (need 20amp one for 200W solar)

dr_trousers,

Solar can be as complicated, or as simple, as you want it to be.
Unless you only plan on a low power system used solely to maintain battery charge while the unit is in storage, it is a bit more than just buying a panel and hooking it to the battery.

If you don't like fussing around, learning about wire sizes and voltage drop, controllers, panels, etc., etc., then I suggest you find a good installer and trust them to make these decisions for you. There are folks who specialize in RV solar installations.

If, on the other hand, you don't mind spending hours studying and learning a fascinating topic, then read and ask lots of questions. There are folks on this forum who have lots of experience in this topic and they can help you a lot if you desire.

No matter who does the work, before you start any solar (or similar) remodel, I suggest you first determine how much energy you need. (Your conservation efforts are a part of this.) Once you know what your usage is, then you can look at having adequate storage (battery capacity) to provide for that usage when the sun isn't shinning or when you don't want to run a generator. After you have answered the first two questions (usage and storage capacity) then you can look at means to generate this power, be it solar, wind, or just a simple generator. If you don't want to go through this effort, then again, just ask and you will get lots of "this is what I did" responses that you can follow if you wish. Just remember, these responses are only what has worked for others, with different usage requirements and locations (i.e.; "latitude" which effects solar efficiency)

I hope this helps ...... some,
Steve

It can be almost that simple, but the missing ingredient is a solar controller in between the panel(s) and battery(ies). You want to look at the max amperage output of the panel and buy a controller that will handle at at least that many amps. The only benefit to going much higher amp rating on the controller than on the panel is if you think you want to add another panel later on.

Example: I bought a 75W panel (4.3A max IIRC) and a Morningstar controller (4.5A rated). I am leaving the panel unattached so I can lay it on the ground in a sunny spot. Panel is wired to controller. Controller is wired to a 7 pin receptacle just like the one on the back of the tow vehicle. So I plug the trailer's pigtail into the receptacle and charge away. I could also have attached a harness to the battery terminals and plugged in directly, but chose (what for me was) the easier path.

For 100W panel or less, an affordable PWM controller is fine. If you want to have much more or especially if you want more than one panel, a MPPT controller may be better. MPPT controllers are more efficient in larger systems and I believe they can allow you more flexibility in adding panels of dissimilar voltages and such.

2oldman wrote:
I'm not sure what your question is.. but there are a ton of solar threads in the tech section.
Solar basics

Great, thanks. You just ruined the rest of my work day. I'll spend some time there, but I am also looking for folks who have done it similar to my needs....

I'm not sure what your question is.. but there are a ton of solar threads in the tech section.
Solar basics