Solar

Here is a simple flow chart.

Budget-->Energy Audit-->Battery bank size-->number of watts-->PWM or MPPT. What ever type of controller is chosen, make sure it has adjustable set points and a temperature probe that is on the battery.

If you use solar as a battery charger, one rule of thumb is between 60 and 150 watts of panels per 100 amp-hours of storage. The smaller the battery bank the higher the wattage needed (per 100 amp-hours). Here is a link to the rather special spreadsheet which includes an energy audit, that N8GS has created to help size solar battery charging systems!

solar spreadsheet by N8GS

If you full time or use an inverter lots, then populate the entire unshaded area of the roof with panels. I'm considering replacing my awning with solar panels.

For a nice explanation of solar, try this link:

Golden rules of solar

I bought all my solar and doo-dads from AM Solar

I have 300 watts.... which is a tad overkill for the average truck camper owner.

One watt per amp hour of battery is a good approximate starting point.

I run two of These panels on my WC840. for 200w total.

I am also an electronics geek so I went with the Bogart Engineering TM-2030 battery system monitor and there matching solar controller.


This picture shows the solar panels putting out 11.6 amps.

This is the charge controller (under sink)

Here is the shunt, two 27 series AGM's and that round thing is the disconnect switch I added.

you can also go with charge controller from the same source as solar panels.
one thing I can recommend is go through your solar wiring. I probably removed an extra 10' of wire from mine when I built it.

Mine has been working for around 1.5 years now. when sitting in the driveway at home, refrigerator running on propane all summer, I never have to plug it RV. in winter, I turn off disconnect switch but solar is still connected to charge, and I even get enough light through my RV cover to keep the AGM's topped off all winter.

The connector WC put on the roof of mine is called SAE.