Well, I'm afraid I am gonna hafta disagree with your disagreement. When I did it, I found it pretty straightforward in the end. But then, I got a bit lucky and found an existing hole close to where the switches were going. You've got up to 6" or so cavity depth to work in the center of the TT which can help. I was able to fish 120V, 12V and CATV wiring from one end of our TT to the other as well as up and down walls and fridge cavity without much difficulty. It was time-consuming though. Brake cable from an automotive store works well for 12VDC and is available in heavier gauge and has an overall jacket. Don't use light gauge wire.
The outer walls would definitely be a problem if they are block foam and you couldn't do it without damaging insulation.
It may seem like a challenge, but if you roll your sleeves up and stand back and scope out some routes, it's just not that bad. I was able to run coax cable from front to back of the TT by using the hole behind the lights on the ceiling. It was all much easier than I thought at first. Until one gives it a go, I wouldn't balk at it. Helps of course that electrical work is my thing.
SCD devicewestend wrote:
I disagree that this will be an easy task to pull wire through the ceiling and down into a wall cavity.
If you have to connect to an existing non-GFCI recept., you can just add a GFCI as long is it doesn't end up being in series with another one. Or a GFCI breaker will work but they are expensive. Unless you can install an outlet box for a residential type recept., you need to use a "SCD" type like this Pass & Seymour one. (Available at RV parts vendors.)