Some mod questions...

Hi,

I added a 2nd outlet powered by my inverter in the kitchen. It was an afterthought and I use it more than any other outlet in the unit.

If you don't have an inverter that can handle large loads, then run romex to the breaker box and add an addition circuit.

Unless you have fiberglass batt insulation in the walls, you can't run wiring in the wall. Best bet is to try and hide the romex cable inside the cabinets and protect with thin plywood or something for physical protection if needed. Upper cabinets typically have a hollow bottom in them that you can run wiring in. Cut a small access hole somewhere or remove a light (if you have one) and fish the wire through the existing hole. You can always pull out the microwave or even fridge to find a place to run wiring. Even under a bathtub or shower works. Once you start looking, there's lots of places to hide new wiring.

On switches, if you have batt insulation in the ceiling, you can run wiring around fairly easily. What you want to do is pull down any lights, AC unit bezel, skylight trim in bathroom, speakers, etc. in the vicinity of the switch you want to add and near the light you want to switch. You can use each access point you find to fish wire across. In our 1st TT, I was able to run wiring all over through the ceiling this way. The real trick is getting wiring down inside the wall. Once you find some access into the ceiling where you want it, if you can get a hand in there, feel around for a hole that might already be there through the top plate of the wall. I was able to find one. If you find one, you are way ahead of the game. If there is no hole you can use, you might be able to use what's called a "close quarters" drill and drill a hole into the top plate. Drill available at Harbor Freight. If you have a cabinet near where you want the switch, run the LV wire inside it.

You *could* use surface molding like Wiremold, but I'd try and make it invisible. You be surprised how easily it is to fish wiring around in a ceiling using even just the little holes behind the standard pancake lights.

I want to add a few switches in our new TT. If there's one thing I wish manufacturers would do, and they're all the same, is add wall switches for lights and fans throughout.

Hi,

Second switch for bunkhouse light is easy. Just put two wires right across the existing switch and run them to where ever you want to switch from. Light off when both switches are off. Light on whenever one or both switches is on. You can either fish the wires through the wall or just surface mount them using plastic wire races available at Home Depot.

If it was me, I would just have one water pump switch and simply move the existing one. If you want two switches, you will need to use two Single (or Double) Pole Double Throw switch's. Google "Three way light switch wiring to find out how to wire them. And you will need to pull three wires over to the new switch location. Again, either pull wires though walls/ceiling or surface mount them using wire races from H.D.

Agree, awful location for a 120 volt outlet. However, I don't recommend putting it right behind the sink either. Reason is that you could accidently touch the sink faucet and the plug contacts at the same time. Not good if you like living. I think I would leave the existing outlet and just wire an additional outlet or two in parallel with it. Like before, either pull wires though cabinets or use wire races from H.D. (you will need larger ones than what you used above) to route the wires.

Hope this helps,
Steve

# 2 . water pump switch is in the best location .
What you need is what is called a 3-way circuit and those switches are only available as a 120V switch in an RV appearance .
Although there are some DPDT switches available I would Use what is installed now .
The bathroom is the best spot for the switch.
# 3 . GFCI receptacle has terminals in the back to add another 120V receptacle that is GFCI protected by the host GFCI.
You could run your 12 guage grounded Romex from the current GFCI to add another receptacle .
You use what is called a " cut-in-box " to house the additional receptacle .
This means you cut your cabinet to EXACTLY fit a " cut-in-box " using access from the front of the cabinet .
Craftsmanship is required .
Make sure that all wiring connections or TIGHT .
Loose connections are what causes fire .

1) You can get all the parts needed at Home Depot. They make a surface-mount wire raceway that could run up the wall and over to the existing light. You leave the switch on the light in the on position, and the lower switch will interrupt power to turn it off/on.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Wiremold-Cordmate-II-Kit-C210/100657473
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-42777-1WB-Surface-Backbox-Single/dp/B00332F4I0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394164489&sr=8-2&keywords=surface+mount+electrical+box

2) Easy enough to do with 12volts. You could use the same wire raceway mentioned above... I would see if you could tuck the wiring behind the wall panels.

Not sure about #3 and #2 but for #1 how about just adding a pull switch like a ceiling fan light. I bet you could fit it in the existing fixture.