Spray oil underneath truck

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Get some of this: POR15
It's popular with hot-rodders. Use flat black and brush, or spray, it on. Lasts a lifetime.

A little goes a long way if you brush it. It coats over rust (POR = paint over rust) because minor rust doesn't matter if it stops now, and most all paints initially stick to it just fine. The difference is that most paints, including intact auto finishes, Rustoleum, etc, allow water to penetrate their micro-porous surface and encourage rust to continue. POR15 is truly water-proof. The advantage to painting over rust (POR15) is that it takes very little prep, just knock the loose stuff off. What resists being easily brushed off is good enough to stick to. POR15 sticks better to rusty surfaces than smooth, so a de-glosser may be in order for present intact frame paint.

The downside is that other paint doesn't stick to dry POR15 very easily, and it fades if exposed to sunlight. But that is perfect for undercoat (in the shade). It's made of urethane and is very similar to the E-coat that all auto manufacturers now use to rust proof the new rust prone, thin, high-carbon body steels on cars. They should be using it on frames, too. These urethanes are similar to an epoxy, but only one part systems. Once the can is opened, they need to be used, as shelf life is drastically reduced.

Remember the silver, blue and white cars of the late '80's and early '90's that peeled? The prolific body rust was well stopped, but paint suppliers were wrong when they said that these specific colors would stick without a special primer. They didn't stick. And if you ever saw the paint lift, the E-coat was dark gray until the sun turned it light gray... faded. But never rusty.

This ultra-tough type coating is highly resistant to rock chips and can be beat out of shape with a ball-peen hammer and still adhere. Check out the web site. There are other urethane brands that are similar, Eastwood coming to mind.

Wes
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travelnutz wrote:
I'd take the rust any day over 115 F.

Being happy and comfortable makes life worth living and besides, I can replace a rusted vehicle any time however, I'll only have one life!

Some vehicles rust and rust thru so much faster than others and it's so obvious as to the difference when you put them on a hoist and look it over!

Then why am I surrounded by "Snowbirds" already? :h

I'd take the rust any day over 115 F.

Being happy and comfortable makes life worth living and besides, I can replace a rusted vehicle any time however, I'll only have one life!

Some vehicles rust and rust thru so much faster than others and it's so obvious as to the difference when you put them on a hoist and look it over!

Here's a thought:

Move to Phoenix and never worry about it again!

:B

(Sorry, couldn't help myself!)

On a serious note, though, just bought a 14yr old Land Cruiser without a speck of rust anywhere. For vehicle enthusiasts, it's a little bonus of living out here and putting up with 115F temps in the summer.

GoPackGo wrote:
Sorry, but you've already lost the battle. Your problem is the rust that is already present. You'll never get rid of it. Anything you do will only seal it in. And every time you throw up a rock off that gravel drive, or that piece of salt you kicked up out on the highway, it will start more rust. Not to mention that nice salt bath you have to drive in all winter will find every possible crevice. A film of oil applied 6 months ago (or 6 days ago) won't stop anything.
Tim

I'm going to have to disagree with you on part of this statement, Tim. Products like Ospho or Jasco Metal Prep use phosphoric acid to neutralize the existing rust. The OP is talking about surface rust not body perforating rust that has caused irreversible damage. I have had great success in stopping rust dead in its tracks with phosphoric acid based products. Even products like Fluid Film react with the rust to neutralize it as well as provide a wax like residue protective film.

Again I agree that using motor oil is very irresponsible way to go. It has numerous ramifications even if you don't care about the environment. I also believe that undercoating does little more than create pockets to trap salt and moisture and usually ends up creating worse problems than you would have on an untreated vehicle.

Sorry, but you've already lost the battle. Your problem is the rust that is already present. You'll never get rid of it. Anything you do will only seal it in. And every time you throw up a rock off that gravel drive, or that piece of salt you kicked up out on the highway, it will start more rust. Not to mention that nice salt bath you have to drive in all winter will find every possible crevice. A film of oil applied 6 months ago (or 6 days ago) won't stop anything.

I always Ziebarted my vehicles when I lived up north. It works but only if applied from the git go. I still remember driving a new car straight from the dealer to the Ziebart place - they still insisted on steam cleaning it before the application.

Don't the domestic manufacturers all still have a factory 100,000 mile warranty against rust ?

And for the record, I really don't want to follow anyone on a rainy day who has sprayed any kind of petroleum product on the chassis of their truck. I imagine all the motorcyclists are especially thrilled at that idea. Yes, I used to ride (that's how I got the camping bug).

Lived in Iowa for 48 years so I do have some experience. The state bird is made out of salt.

Tim

I live in Upstate NY; "land of we can never put to much salt on the roads." Just wash the darn thing! I wash more in the winter than I do summer. Don't worry about the exterior, spray up underneath wheel wells, open the hood, the doors etc. You are going to get cold, wet and messy, but what is your vehicle worth to you. Once a year or so I put it on ramps and get underneath with a wire brush and a can of dollar store rustoleum.
Only rust bucket I've owned in forty years was an early 70's Fiat Wagon.

Many around here use the oil treatment. After it is applied, they drive down a few miles of dry dirt road to seal it up. I have worked in a repair shop where these vehicles go up on a lift. They lookm so much better than untreated vehicles. not only frame and suspension parts. But also the trans cooling lines and brake lines too. Need to retreat every year. It's cheap to do. So I say go for it.

akronharry wrote:
Just bought some Fluid Film (2 12 ounce aerosol cans) online.
Will try that first.

I think that you will like the Fluid Film but you may need a few more cans. It only lasts a year or so and will come off when pressure washed. Keep a few cans in stock to reapply where needed.

OSPHO will work but will not be permanent.

It is phosphoric acid which interacts with rust (iron oxide) to produce Iron phosphate.

Good bare and lightly rusted metal prep.