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Trackrig's avatar
Trackrig
Explorer II
Apr 29, 2017

Stabilizer pads on a TT - I have to ask

Jack pads. I have both a 40' DP that stays in the States and a Nash 26X TT that I bought last year and took back to use in Alaska.

On the DP, obviously a heavier rig, I made my pads out of a sheet of 3/4" green pressure treated plywood cut into 16' x 16" pieces glued and screwed together. Two of them are three layers thick and two are four layers thick. They've worked very well for the DP when needed for softer ground.

On the TT I've just been using a couple of 2 x 6 pieces along with the X-braces between the tires and use a 18V drill motor to screw down the corner stabilizers. We've been on the road in the DP for about two months and moving a lot. Of course it's always fun to watch other people in a RV park. Still being new to the TT, I've been watching how people set them up.

Some, like me, use a couple pieces of 2X material. Others bring out these huge stacks of plastic Lego blocks that they stack up 6" to 16" high under their stabilizers. Am I missing something here?

In a TT you don't have a lot of storage area so why are they carrying and using so much blocking? At first I thought it was because they were hand cranking the stabilizers up and down - the more blocks, the less hand cranking. But as I watch, they then bring out the drill motor and use it for the few inches they crank them down to reach the tall stack of blocks.

The TT moves around more than the heavy DP with hydraulic jacks. The DW thought the TT would move less if I used high blocks and less distance on the stabilizers. I tried more / higher blocks but I didn't notice any difference in stability.

So, does using a higher stack of blocking and therefore less distance on the stabilizers make for a more stable TT or are some people using so much blocking just because they have it or feel like it?

Bill
  • I used blocks of 2 x 12's cut into squares last year any time I lowered the stabilizers - even on concrete. This year, I bought a bag of the plastic "lego" bases instead of the wooden blocks. Main reason: weight. The plastic blocks weight 1/2 what the wooden blocks do and are much easier to store.
  • sparechange wrote:
    ...the orange blocks out just parked on the driveway....


    The reason is logical. If you are parked on concrete, there really is no need for any kind of pad under the tires or jacks. But if parked on asphalt, a pad under the jacks (and the bigger footprint the better) keeps the asphalt from getting dimples and holes from the weight of the object on top of it. Tires are spread out over a wider area, but even on some asphalt surfaces, the heat of the sun will soften them enough that tires will even leave dimples. I think that's the reason a lot of folks use some kind of pad, especially in their own driveway.

    The worst example of this is a motorcycle kick stand. When I use to ride.... um ... sum 45 years ago (shows my age)... I always carried a 6 inch square 3/4 inch plywood board with me, just so I could put it under the kick stand. The first time the motorcycle fell over and the kick stand was 6 inches in the asphalt was the last time I did it that way. Lesson learned.

    But, that is probably the most logical reason why folks use some kind of block or pad under the jacks in driveways.
  • I've noticed the same thing and just can't wrap my brain around it. Parked on soft ground, I get it but I see people all the time with the orange blocks out just parked on the driveway. Honestly makes me chuckle. Seems like a waste of time and money. I cut down a couple of 2x8's for pads and to level the trailer when needed. Guess we all see things differently.
  • We are now preparing to hit the roads with our 4th TT, and we learned early that the less that you drop the stabilizers the less that the TT will bounce around. Several years ago, one fellow on here posted a photo of his four blocks, and I quickly borrowed his idea. I bought a CCA treated 12FtX2"X12", and two CCA 10FtX2"X6". With these, treated deck screws, and 4 screen door handles, I made four strong blocks that are roughly 9"X12"X18" with handles on them. They are nearly 8 years old and showing no wear. I place them in a way to ensure that I don't have to drop the stabilizers any more than 3 or 4 inches each. With three teenagers in the camper with us, this practice sure pays for itself.
  • Depends on how level the campsite is. If it's level, hard dirt, I don't use anything under the stabilizers.

    If I'm camping in softer sand, I use a plywood square under the stabilizers.

    If my campsite is sloped, the Lego things come out and get used, along with whatever lumber I have with me.
  • It is all about leverage. You want to keep your stabilizers as short as possible. This will reduce movement in the trailer plus make the mounting welds on your stabilizers last.
  • I uses these blocks, which came out of a support post in a 150 year old barn about 20 years ago. I got the post and cut it into lengths and painted them. By the way, they were so old and so aged, I had to cut them with a chain saw. A normal saw blade wouldn't touch them.

    I carry my lumber in my truck:





    I use 2x4 for other things too:





    Here's how I transport it. And yes, we have been to several campgrounds where we've used it all:




  • The higher I stack my blocking, the less my trailer moves. It's a considerable difference.