Stableload alternative

Grodyman, the solid block does not eliminate the flex in the spring pack. It simply reduces or eliminates the travel for the overload contact. Typically, it will make the vehicle suspension stiffer, and for some people could be a harsh ride.

Wayne

The Mad Norsky, thanks for the information. I had a DRW for over twenty-five years, but did not haul a TC. I have hauled my TCs on SRW trucks. I believe without a doubt that SRW trucks will find a major positive effect with a sway bar.


zulu52, actually, I think the sway bar is properly called an anti-sway bar. Its only function and purpose is to reduce sway. That is why it is an anti-sway bar. I think you should search sway bars and their benefit.

Simply stated, an anti-sway bar reduces sway, shock absorbers absorb shock, overload springs and airbags handle overloading the basic springs.

I honestly don't understand the desire to place a solid block between the springs and the lower overload effectively eliminating the flex in the spring pack and preventing the springs from functioning as designed. A lot of people use the product, so it must work, but I don't get it.

Reddog1 wrote:
Terrick down Under, Thanks. I am considering a similar setup on my DRW. I am not clear on the "2 x 75 litre propane tanks that just fit between the rails , rear of axle and the hitch which weigh about the same as 4 x steel rims and tyres. "

Zulu, not sure what you are running due to no info in your profile or signature. If you are SRW, and do not have a sway bar, I can say with confidence that a rear sway bar will be a seat of the pants obvious difference in controlling sway. I do not have a sway bar on my DRW. Some folks say not needed on a DRW, with overload spring engagement modifications. I hope they are correct, but I will know in the near future. I am in the process of setting the DRW up for my TC.

Wayne

Wayne,
2015 Chevy 2500, 4X4, long bed, single rear wheels, crew cab.
No sway bar. To tell the truth, I'm not sure what a sway bar does or how it is attached.
Zulu

Reddog1:

regarding sway bars on DRW's.

Have hauled my SnowRiver with two different trucks now, first the 2011 Ford F350 dually with factory sway bar, and now on my 2014 Ram dually, no rear sway bar.

Mind you, putting a rear sway bar on the Ram is on my bucket list. But to date, I've really not noticed that big a difference in handling between the two trucks.

And, of course, should add that the factory Ford sway bar is rather small when compared to what is available after-market.

Terrick down Under, Thanks. I am considering a similar setup on my DRW. I am not clear on the "2 x 75 litre propane tanks that just fit between the rails , rear of axle and the hitch which weigh about the same as 4 x steel rims and tyres. "

Zulu, not sure what you are running due to no info in your profile or signature. If you are SRW, and do not have a sway bar, I can say with confidence that a rear sway bar will be a seat of the pants obvious difference in controlling sway. I do not have a sway bar on my DRW. Some folks say not needed on a DRW, with overload spring engagement modifications. I hope they are correct, but I will know in the near future. I am in the process of setting the DRW up for my TC.

Wayne

jimh425 wrote:

zulu52 wrote:
My TC sways a lot because of the top heavy load. Would this fix that problem?

Do I need hockey pucks?
Zulu

Maybe just less air if you run air bags.

No air bags.
Zulu

zulu52 wrote:
My TC sways a lot because of the top heavy load. Would this fix that problem?

Do I need hockey pucks?
Zulu

Maybe just less air if you run air bags.

My TC sways a lot because of the top heavy load. Would this fix that problem?

Do I need hockey pucks?
Zulu

Reddog1, yes I tend to leave them in a lot. Just lazy I expect. My truck has a couple of extras...2 x 75 litre propane tanks that just fit between the rails , rear of axle and the hitch which weigh about the same as 4 x steel rims and tyres. With the 6 inch lowering and that weight it sits real low. The bumps stop rubbers tend to lift the rear about 2 1/2", and make the ride a little stiffer ( about 10%). It is still very comfortable to drive even on dirt roads. I am lucky enough to have a 2 post hoist that I just lift under the hitch until the rear tires are just about to leave the ground, undo the retaining nuts and the stops just twist sideways and out. This take me about 10 minutes maximum to do by myself.
This getting to load, my second time, sloping ground, very nervous.

This is Easter before last, heading off to the Victorian high country for 10 days.

When the TC is on and loaded, the upper helper sits about 1/2" off its stop, and the ride is very nice.
Although I have been thinking about a rear sway bar lately for windy winter driving thru the mountains here.
Sorry rambling, hope this helps