Starcraft Travel Star Restoration

Thanks for the feedback.
I've got a new plan after finding some 1" aluminum channel at Lowe's. I'm going to start a frame at the front and attach new luan (and a waterproof membrane) under the aluminum square channels. Because they are light and not too expensive I'll use them at 12" centers and put them on top of the trailer frame that runs the length of the trailer on both sides. I'll jack up and support the sides at the front if needed to get back to square. I'll then rivet the channel to the outside frame using L brackets. I'll epoxy glue 1" hardwood blocks where the existing bolts go through the 2x4 blocks to the frame under the trailer. I'll then fill in with 1" sheets of insulation. On top of that frame I'll put 1/2 " ply (treated?), install the bolts to the frame and then put another layer of luan on which new vinyl plank flooring will go on. Sounds simple but I'm sure it will be some work and a few problems along the way.

At Lowes I put the channel on the floor and put the 1/2" ply on top, then a sheet of luan and the panels were very rigid with no movement. I'll be adding some weight with the 1/2" ply, but it shouldn't be too much.

You shouldn't need any dimensional lumber as big as 2x6. You should have some type of framing that supports the composite panel floor. I'd suggest to remove all that is damaged, including bits underneath walls. You can use an angle grinder or sawzall to ferret out rotten flooring underneath the walls. Support them with small blocking until you install a new floor. I'd suggest to install a conventional framed floor using 2x2's with foam in between floor joists. Sheet the floor with "X" rated plywood, a minimum 5/8" to offer support on a 16" OC floor. Slide your new floor sheeting underneath the walls while removing the support blocks.

Update

So the bottom luan is saturated as well, I'm almost to the door. I will probably have to remove the coat cupboard and possibly the furnace/heater.

I'm wondering if I should start with putting in floor joists and subfloor in a section at the front and work my way back. Since the luan is rotted under the outside aluminum wall frame how would I go about repairing that and reattaching the waterproof membrane. From the older posts it doesn't look like anyone addresses that. They just attach joists to the outside aluminum rails.

I'm thinking if I can build a frame of some sort with luan attached to the bottom that would give something for the extruded foam insulation to rest on and provide some support. Then I might get away with fewer 2x6 joists, or perhaps use a combination of 2x6 and 2x4's, perhaps with a lap jointed one running down the centerline?

I could post some pictures but at the moment it just looks like a variety of other starcraft trailers with the floor partly ripped out.

I have a 2006 Starcraft with the same problem, rotted floor at the front of the trailer. It was caused by the bottom seam of the stone guard area opening up (probably was hit by something) and then having the trailer sit in storage for a couple of winters. I've taken out the furniture and the top layer of the wet luan.

I'll now proceed with getting the old foam out. The bottom waterproof membrane has come loose from the front and some of the sides. How would I go about repairing this? When I get the foam out I'm sure the bottom luan is rotted as well. I'm thinking of supporting the sides of the trailer with jacks to get things back to level and add a frame of 2 x6 's attached to the outside aluminum frame.

Any suggestions? I've looked up some old threads but some of the pictures of repairs are no longer available.

Any help appreciated

We owned a 2004 Starcraft 215SS Antigua Hybrid from 2013 to 2016 (4 seasons).

After season #2, the floor on the front was soft. My independant RV tech added some 2X4 studs from under the trailer, to reinforce the floor. He peeled off the cushion floor (from front to halfway) and let the floor dry off. He fixed the location of the leak (coming from the bunkend hinges). Then replaced the cushion floor by gluing it to the floor. Once back at its place, the cushion floor was a bit too short, so he added a white quarter-round molding. Our cabinets were white. That did the trick for us. The floor remained a bit soft when walking on it, but we knew that everything was sturdy underneath. After all, the TT was an older model, and it was not worth spending $$$ to gut it and repair - either by myself or getting someone to do it.

This my 2 cents.

BTW, that's not the reason why we sold it. We looooved that Hybrid trailer. But we were ready to move to the dark side with a travel trailer, no canvass.

Good luck and happy camping!

Again, thank you. I suppose at this point its finding suppliers for things like the metal tubing. I dont want to add weight to the camper. Think we found the source of a roof leak, a broken, mangled refrigerator roof vent. Now to get a ladder tall enough to reach it!

StarryOne wrote:

Ralph Cramden wrote:
A 2004 Travel Star is laminated panel construction including the floor, and dealing with the laminated construction is not anywhere close to being simple as just replacing "sheets" of plywood. It can be done, and has been done, but it's not exactly easy and involves adding a lot of additional supports, as the aluminum structural supports in the panels are placed far apart. The top layer of the floor under the vinyl flooring will be nominal 1/4" (around 3/16") and the bottom layer 1/8" with 1x1-1/2" aluminum tube on 32" or wider centers with nothing between but 1-1/2" beaded foam. On the wall panels they'll have 1/8" plywood inner and outer with 1" tubes and foam between, those tubes could be 4' apart or further with no framing whatsoever around openings.

I realized you are saying there are 2 floors?? Could you walk me thru that? 2 sheets of different sized wood?

Thank you, Ralph! Now I completely get it.. It makes more sense than what I was envisioning!

StarryOne wrote:

Ralph Cramden wrote:
A 2004 Travel Star is laminated panel construction including the floor, and dealing with the laminated construction is not anywhere close to being simple as just replacing "sheets" of plywood. It can be done, and has been done, but it's not exactly easy and involves adding a lot of additional supports, as the aluminum structural supports in the panels are placed far apart. The top layer of the floor under the vinyl flooring will be nominal 1/4" (around 3/16") and the bottom layer 1/8" with 1x1-1/2" aluminum tube on 32" or wider centers with nothing between but 1-1/2" beaded foam. On the wall panels they'll have 1/8" plywood inner and outer with 1" tubes and foam between, those tubes could be 4' apart or further with no framing whatsoever around openings.

I realized you are saying there are 2 floors?? Could you walk me thru that? 2 sheets of different sized wood?

What Ralph is saying is that you have composite panels, both in the walls and in the floor. A composite panel is made by sandwiching foam between two other sheets of material. It is made in a factory where glue is used to secure the two sheets and foam together. What you end up with in a floor is that sandwich and metal supports at certain intervals. It is not like a conventional wood floor. The complexity of repair involves repairing any deteriorated wood sheet and fixing any crushed or broken foam. It is more complex than just cutting out a floor sheet and replacing it.

It can be done, it's just more work. An owner can remove any top flooring wood sheet that is failing fill the cavity between it and the bottom sheet with new foam or spray in new foam. Since the Mfg's of these composite panels rely on a cheap expanded foam, any replacement with extruded foam or spray foam is an upgrade from the original.

Ralph Cramden wrote:
A 2004 Travel Star is laminated panel construction including the floor, and dealing with the laminated construction is not anywhere close to being simple as just replacing "sheets" of plywood. It can be done, and has been done, but it's not exactly easy and involves adding a lot of additional supports, as the aluminum structural supports in the panels are placed far apart. The top layer of the floor under the vinyl flooring will be nominal 1/4" (around 3/16") and the bottom layer 1/8" with 1x1-1/2" aluminum tube on 32" or wider centers with nothing between but 1-1/2" beaded foam. On the wall panels they'll have 1/8" plywood inner and outer with 1" tubes and foam between, those tubes could be 4' apart or further with no framing whatsoever around openings.

I realized you are saying there are 2 floors?? Could you walk me thru that? 2 sheets of different sized wood?

Good to know. Thank you. It lets me know that I should expect frustrations!!