Steaming hot water out of HWH?

My old SW6P could be turned down so you didn't have to mix, myself I prefer that. Like I said we'll live with it. No big deal.I can always run it for less time.

tuna fisher wrote:
I just installed a Suburban SW6P in my Lance and from the factory it set on the lowest setting, It's 2 hot in my book, you can't hold your hand under it at all. Don't even want to turn it up. I know W/H when new heat better but this is LOW and 2 hot. I guess we have to live with it as I can't turn it down.

Not suppose to use straight hot water....suppose to be tempered/mixed with cold water. Lo setting is 120*F
T-stat controls are typically high so that you can get more hot water usage form smaller size tanks.

I just installed a Suburban SW6P in my Lance and from the factory it set on the lowest setting, It's 2 hot in my book, you can't hold your hand under it at all. Don't even want to turn it up. I know W/H when new heat better but this is LOW and 2 hot. I guess we have to live with it as I can't turn it down.

The gas control is a "SIT Gas Control"...........LINK (Check your model number)

In order to replace you have to remove burner tube, disconnect gas line, then remove gas control by unscrewing unit. Tank has to be drained.

OldBuscuit, would you know what it would cost for a replacement unit?
Could I put it in, or is it better done by a dealer?
Thanks, OldGranny, thats what I was going to do. I have to buy a blowout valve somewhere.

Per stevenal's link:

Page 5, III.C. Temperature and Pressure Valve gives instructions on the drip.

Page 8, A. Gas Control System (continued), 3. Temperature Adjustment a) Water too hot:
1) Thermostat set too high. Adjust temperature to lower selection accordingly.
2) Check Orifice size, check gas pressure.

Wayne

When we winterize we first open all low point drains, all faucets and flip pop off valve on hot water heater, run pump till dry then attach a blow out valve to city water input and hook up an air tank and blow it out till no water runs out. Close everything up, drain holding tanks, grey and black, close them up add anti-freeze to all sink drains and holding tanks. Done this for 46 years with no problems, so far.

That is a Suburban water heater.

The PRV (press relief valve) is dripping because of the over-firing and high water temps.

The gas control has a thermostat that you control by turning dial on front of gas control (lo/med/hi) Lo setting should be 120*F (med--130* Hi--150*F)
Water steaming out of faucet means the thermostat has failed.
You have to replace gas control assembly.......thermostat is part of gas control and not replaceable by itself.
Thermostat sticks out back of gas control and assembly screws into tank.

Water pumps are diaphragm pumps.....move very little and can be run dry

It is possible the original owner put the bypass in. The guy I bought it from probably doesn't have the ability for that, from what I gather talking to him, if you know what I mean. Then, to bypass the hot water tank I close both upper and lower valves and the hw tank is bypassed, am I right. I am going to try and get the hw tank plug out later today.
I am pretty sure the leak is in the collar of the tee fitting. when its dry I don't see an flow from the threaded side of the fitting behind it.
I can't get my head in there to watch the back of the tee completely.
I fired up the hw heater again yesterday, no change. It ran for 30 min, and I shut it off, again, done with it for this year. Can you run the water pump dry? Or is that a no-no. I don't want to put anti-freeze in the fresh water tank, or am I just paranoid?
Thanks for the help.