Stiffer bars for Blue Ox hitch?

plasticmaster wrote:
My blue ox hitch does not tilt. The battery tray is welded to the A frame and sits lower than the a frame. It's a Forest River Vibe.

Post a couple of pictures with it hooked up..

Model number may also be very helpful.

Bars should not be able to swing much when turning but I could see there may be enough slack from the chains to allow the bars to swing into an obstruction like a battery tray that sits to far below the A frame..

Stronger bars may result in way overcorrecting the WD which is why I mentioned checking and verifying the amount of restoration to the front axle. This needed done anyways since you changed TVs, the amount of restoration can vary between vehicles and you may find the newer vehicle may not need as much as the old one did.

My blue ox hitch does not tilt. The battery tray is welded to the A frame and sits lower than the a frame. It's a Forest River Vibe.

cliffy49 wrote:
Unfortunatly, until the op comes back with which blue ox hitch he is using and a better explanation we wont know what the solution may be.

OP mentioned their version is using chains, sort of eliminates several models..

One of the models that isn't eliminated is the one that I posted instructions for..

The "pro" versions do not use chains and the hitch head angle is preset..

Unfortunatly, until the op comes back with which blue ox hitch he is using and a better explanation we wont know what the solution may be.

cliffy49 wrote:
Just an fyi. The head on the Blue Ox is not adjustable like the Equalizer hitch. Tension and weight transfer is determined by the chain.

Not sure about that.

HERE is a manual for one of the BlueOx versions.

Page 5 mentions..

"8. Position head assembly on shank. Slide head up or down to the nearest bolt hole alignment
position which corresponds with the “TARGET” ball height determined in Step 4 and Insert (1) ¾” x
4.5” HEX BOLT item #4(see Parts Listing pg 13) into bottom hole of channel.

9. Place four (4) hardened washers item #7(see Parts Listing pg 13) on pin item #6(see Parts Listing
pg 13) and insert pin into the unthreaded hole in the upper portion of the head channel. The
number of washers may have to be changed later.

10. Rotate head up until pin head touches shank, the hitch ball should be nearly vertical or tilted slightly
rearward (adjust number of washers under pin head until you get the desired angle) and then place
(1) ¾” x 4.5” HEX BOLT item #4(see Parts Listing pg 13) cone washer item #8(see Parts Listing pg
13) and insert into upper oval hole of channel through the corresponding shank hole.

11. Place a second cone washer #8(see Parts Listing pg 13) on upper ¾” bolt and then thread ¾” hex
nut item #5(see Parts Listing pg 13) only finger tight to both bolts. Then insert 5/8” bolt item
#18(see Parts Listing pg 13) into bottom hole on channel and tighten against shank, the WD head
should then move upward until the pin head contacts the shank then turn the 5/8” bolt an additional
1/4-1/2 turn."

See parts number 6 and 7 in the pix..


Click For Full-Size Image.

To change hitch ball pitch (and the angle of the bars), you add or remove shims (#7) from pin (#6).

The top hole of the hitch head should have a "slot" instead of round hole, the slot allows the adjustment to be made to the pitch.

Not sure which Blue Ox hitch the OP has but I suspect they should be similar for this adjustment.

Since OP had to move the hitch head on the shank they may have missed or lost shims in the process which would result in the ball to pitch towards the vehicle which will point the bar ends up towards the trailer frame..

plasticmaster wrote:
Just got a new truck and noticed that when I hitched my travel trailer to it, the rear end squats a little as compared to the front of the truck. I have the Blue Ox hitch and typically I would adjust the chain length to give it more tension. However, doing so would cause the bar to hit the battery tray on the tongue of the camper in turns. Could I use stiffer load bars to provide the correct leveling which would allow the chains to be longer?

Eyeballing it?

Measure you unloaded height front and rear.

Measure you trailer hitched but no WD connected.

Subtract the loaded distance from the unloaded distance for front and rear.

Make your measurements in the exact same spot each time, you want some accuracy.

Now you have numbers to give you something to work from instead of eyeballs which sometimes gets fooled.

Shoot for half of the front difference for weight restoration..

That should bring the rear up slightly while dropping the front some as it pushes weight forward towards the front axle.

Manufacturers used to tell folks to fully restore the front height, I believe they now recommend 1/2 restoration as 100% restoration may not be obtainable or desirable..

Something else to consider, trucks are naturally biased high on the rear, depending on spring rates and how much over level the rear may start with, some sag is normal, acceptable and expected.

May not need as much as your eyeballs are telling you.

do either of these help? depends on which blue ox hitch he has

blue ox hitch instructions 1

blue ox instructions 2

plasticmaster wrote:
Just got a new truck and noticed that when I hitched my travel trailer to it, the rear end squats a little as compared to the front of the truck. I have the Blue Ox hitch and typically I would adjust the chain length to give it more tension. However, doing so would cause the bar to hit the battery tray on the tongue of the camper in turns. Could I use stiffer load bars to provide the correct leveling which would allow the chains to be longer?

Not real sure I am understanding this. How is it possible for the bars to hit the battery box. The bars are usually under the A-frame and the battery box is usually on top of and between the a-frame. Please post a picture of what you are referring to so that others may possibly answer your questions and get a better understanding of the issue.

As Barney said, you need to adjust the hitch head so it has more rearward tilt.

So are you trying to correct a visual perception issue, or is there an actual issue?

Your old truck was a 2015 Half ton Chevy iirc and you now have a new or newer F150? (Based solely on your recent threads)
Apples to apples I don’t see any new F150 being softer than your old Chevy.

So are you trying to improve a condition that was present with your old setup as well or are we missing part of the puzzle pieces? Because “my truck squats a little” is about as vague of a statement as one could muster, I think.