Forum Discussion

akronharry's avatar
akronharry
Explorer
Jun 24, 2014

Subflooring Idea

I have to replace a section of flooring in my TT. The flooring inserts into a C channel along the perimeter of the trailer. The flooring is 3/4 inch thick and about one inch at the edges of the plywood are shaved down to about a 1/2 inch to fit into the C channels.

My idea is: Lay 1/2 inch plywood around the area so that it can easily slip into the C channel. This would consist of three cut pieces. Then use 1/4 inch plywood with lots of glue and place over the 1/2 inch plywood and cut it so the seams from the original pieces are covered over.

WOUld structual integrity be compromised in doing this. I don't think so, but want to make sure.
  • Gdetrailer's avatar
    Gdetrailer
    Explorer III
    Jun 24, 2014
    A router (for WOOD WORKING not internet) with the proper bit, set to the proper depth would be my first choice. Even a cheapo router and bits from Harbor Freight shouldn't set you back much at all.

    Your suggestion could work but would sacrifice some strength and depend on having a good glue bond..

    Plywood is made using alternating layers of wood plus specific glues for the laminating process and is put under many tons per square inch of pressure while the glue sets.. You will never be able to match that using your idea.
  • akronharry's avatar
    akronharry
    Explorer
    Jun 24, 2014
    Gdetrailer wrote:
    A router (for WOOD WORKING not internet) with the proper bit, set to the proper depth would be my first choice. Even a cheapo router and bits from Harbor Freight shouldn't set you back much at all.

    Your suggestion could work but would sacrifice some strength and depend on having a good glue bond..

    Plywood is made using alternating layers of wood plus specific glues for the laminating process and is put under many tons per square inch of pressure while the glue sets.. You will never be able to match that using your idea.


    Thanks!
  • westend's avatar
    westend
    Explorer
    Jun 24, 2014
    Was the original subfloor one piece or three cut pieces? Any time you create a joint, you'll diminish the integrity, somewhat. The question should be, "will I compromise the flooring beyond it's function?". If you can place an additional piece under the joints it will add strength. If the adhesive you use to attach the 1/4" overlay bonds both pieces and the adhesive is stronger than the wood plys (it will be), then the total strength will be similar to the original. Remember to observe direction of plies when using plywood as a subfloor.
  • akronharry's avatar
    akronharry
    Explorer
    Jun 24, 2014
    westend wrote:
    Was the original subfloor one piece or three cut pieces? Any time you create a joint, you'll diminish the integrity, somewhat. The question should be, "will I compromise the flooring beyond it's function?". If you can place an additional piece under the joints it will add strength. If the adhesive you use to attach the 1/4" overlay bonds both pieces and the adhesive is stronger than the wood plys (it will be), then the total strength will be similar to the original. Remember to observe direction of plies when using plywood as a subfloor.


    The original subfloor was one piece The area I am talking about is around the equivalent of a 4 x8 sheet, not the entire 25 foot trailer. I am welding the steel frame for reinforcement purposes. There is rust on some of the frame. There is no way to put plywood back in one piece. Thats why I asked about putting down the 1/2 inch in 3 pieces and then 1/4 inch in a much larger piece. See pic.

  • westend's avatar
    westend
    Explorer
    Jun 24, 2014
    Ok, the picture helps (you're going to be admonished about size by a moderator). As long as the joints in the 1/2" sheet fall on a joist, you'll be golden. Typical trailer construction from what I see, the original OSB is not supported for a span of greater than 24". So they saved the price of two pieces of stamped steel and the associated welds. If it was me, I'd try to get some additional joists under the floor. Your overall plan, as originally described, sounds good.
  • akronharry's avatar
    akronharry
    Explorer
    Jun 25, 2014
    Thanks Westend! It seems to make sense. Instead of grinding away at the edges of a 3/4 sheet of plywood to get 1/2 inch so it can slip in the C channel seems time consuming. If I glue and screw the two pieces (1/2 and 1/4 inch) together, it should be strong!
  • opnspaces's avatar
    opnspaces
    Navigator II
    Jun 26, 2014
    I would go with the router too, although I have limited experience with a router so I'm not sure how well it would come out.

    On you picture size it does cause us to scroll side to side and it's a fairly easy fix. Just Quote this post and look at the text between the IMG's at the bottom. The width 640 is what you need to add to your picture size to fix the scrolling.

    Probably the easiest way to fix it though is to just highlight and copy the entire line below. Then go to your picture post and click Edit. Remove your original picture link and paste the one below in it's place.



    Or you can go smaller with a width or 320

  • Gdetrailer's avatar
    Gdetrailer
    Explorer III
    Jun 26, 2014
    opnspaces writes "I would go with the router too, although I have limited experience with a router so I'm not sure how well it would come out"

    You can clamp a straight board across the plywood to use as a straight edge. The straight edge is placed so the router base rides the straight edge. You measure from the bit cutting edge to the router base edge, that number is your "offset" that you would add to how far in from the edge the straight edge is placed.

    I use the same idea of clamping a straight edge to boards when making long cuts with a circular saw or even a jig saw. Makes for real nice straight cuts.

    Alternately you can buy bits which have a bearing that rides the edge of the board. this works great as long as you don't need a real long cut into the board edge.

    Routers can get away from you if you are not careful but they can be rather useful at times.

    Another way to do this is if you have a table saw with a dado blade, but can be a bit difficult to do when dealing with say a 4x8 sheet of plywood..
  • akronharry's avatar
    akronharry
    Explorer
    Jun 26, 2014
    opnspaces wrote:
    I would go with the router too, although I have limited experience with a router so I'm not sure how well it would come out.

    On you picture size it does cause us to scroll side to side and it's a fairly easy fix. Just Quote this post and look at the text between the IMG's at the bottom. The width 640 is what you need to add to your picture size to fix the scrolling.

    Probably the easiest way to fix it though is to just highlight and copy the entire line below. Then go to your picture post and click Edit. Remove your original picture link and paste the one below in it's place.



    Or you can go smaller with a width or 320

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