Cost to replace subfloor

easy. take a circular saw and set depth to floor thickness (generally will be 5/8" OSB), and cut out the bad section. One tip is to screw down a straight edge onto the floor (like a yardstick) before you start cutting and use that as a guide edge for your saw as you go along. Reposition the straight edge the 3 remaining cuts so you can get a pretty perfect square cutout. Then toe nail or screw some 2x2 supports into your exisiting floor supports so you can have something to screw the new patch to. Cutout your patch, screw it the studs and finish off with floor patch or wood filler for any gaps. Then lay flooring over it

Contact a local carpenter/floor installer. Assuming YOU remove the toilet and replace it when you're through with the floor, plan on a couple hours labor, and maybe a trip charge. Probably $200 if you buy the materials.....Dennis

If the sub-floor is built up using a sandwich type panel, replacing just the top plywood layer is a little more complicated. This top layer of plywood may be laminated to a layer of foam insulation which may also need to be replaced if it has moisture damage.

Very possible the person will just lay another sheet of plywood over the whole floor. Only issue for them will be extending the PVC.

Well, the problem is this "rot" has crept under some cabinets, and that means the cabinets, refrigerator, and possibly stove have to be removed in order to even get to the rotted OSB. I went and got 2 estimates from local RV repair shops. The first was $6000 and the second was $5000. This is going to be painful, if the rot wasn't under the cabinets it would probably be much cheaper. - Tom

Cut out the bad and leave the rest if it is still in pretty sound condition. Chances are it is because you would have noticed soft spots in the floor. Or plywood over the whole mess in the bathroom.

Yes to make it perfect you have to pull up cabinets and the cost increases. Fix what you can and leave the rest.

Pogoil.

I had to replace a 1' x 6' section of subfloor in my 5th wheel. The key is getting a nice, straight cut when you remove the rotted material, then properly supporting the replacement section. You may need to sister in some joists adjacent to existing joists, and/or securely screw in some new pieces along the gap.

Of course, finding and fixing the original leak, too.

It's not as big a job as you might think. Good luck!

Pat in Menifee, CA
www.patcarnathan.com

Sounds like your floor plan is similar to ours. We have had 2 times that water could have gotten under the frig and cabinets. Didn't discover the first until we were out from under trees and refrigerator roof vent was totally exposed to heavy rain -- it leaked filling the outside compartment, then running inside under frig and cabinets until carpet in front of frig was wet and we discovered it.

The other was a hot water connection on the water heater. In lower cabinet next to frig. Floor there got saturated and then leaked either direction and was under the frig and into bathroom floor and on into bedroom. All from a drip that until things were sopping wet was not bad enough for us to hear or know was leaking.

You will want to know where it was leaking unless you can definitely tell it is from an old no longer active leak.