SUCCESS removing frozen lock nuts on HappiJac turnbuckles

^ This.
But that is learned after a smashed finger or 3.
Sounds like it wasn’t really froze up, OP just need a Bfw and use it the right way.

On applying the wrenches- when you have 2 wrenches positioned at wide angle and use 2 hands, there is high risk of crushing your fingers when the nut breaks loose.
I always position the wrenches with minimal angle, so I can squeeze the ends with palm of my hand. This way when the wrenches come together you don't have your fingers between and you can use both hands 1 over the other for bigger torque.

magic43 wrote:
50-50 Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)is an excellent penetrating oil. Once it starts moving, switch to 100% ATF.

I have found that works better than any rust buster on the market and I've tried just about all of them .

I luv the internet.

BradW wrote:

JRscooby wrote:
I have often worked like that, but I grab out near the end of the wrench, put twist on then hit between hand and wrench. I use a hammer, because it is easier to control the hit when using right tool.

A hammer works if the bolt/nut is screwed on to something stationary. We talkin' about truck camper tie downs here which are not tie firmly to anything. All you have working for you is mass of everything except the hex nut which you are trying to break free. Mr Newton would suggest the wrench vs the hammer is this situation.

Sounds like a strokes/folks deal. The tool box I care in the truck I work with, and the box in the pickup, the only hammer is a 3 pound. Tool truck or garage, I have a drawer full of hammers.But the size i carry I can hit most things as hard as I need to. It is easy to hit gently with a big hammer, hit hard with a little one only wears you out.
My point is, even if I only need to tap it, a hammer is the right tool.
BTW, I have woken up jam nuts on a turn buckle by holding a heavy hammer head against 1 flat, taping the opposite side. Want to flex the nut, not bend it.

Look up aero kroil it beats most penetrating oil. For jobs like this

I have Happijack fastguns who are about 20 years old.
They do have draining holes at the bottom of spring cylinder, but as I discovered years ago - those are easy to clog with dust.
So I drain the water from the assemble and cleaned the hole.
Mine are always with levels up and rod down.

SUCCESS! The locknuts are loose! How was that accomplished?

Though I didn’t have any of the suggested brands of penetrating oil, I did have some Liquid Wrench. So I put some on several times and let it soak in. The 90+ degree day probably didn’t hurt.

One of my 3/4-inch wrenches was shorter than the other. So I put that one aside and selected a larger wrench with a longer handle. Then I put on some gloves.

I put the 3/4-inch wrench on the lock nut and the larger wrench on the hook end of the threaded rod. Making sure that my gloved hands were as close as possible to the end of each wrench, I pulled the wrenches toward each other as hard as I could.

Suddenly, the wrenches fell off and the nut was loose! Hurrah!

Thanks for your help, everyone. I think the penetrating oil, the gloves, and the increased leverage of the longer wrenches did the trick.

A further note: When we bought the camper, the HappiJac turnbuckles were installed upside down. HappiJac recommends they be installed with the threaded rod up so rain water does not run down into the business end of the cylinders. Also, when penetrating oil is applied, it will run down toward the locknut instead of away from it.

50-50 Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)is an excellent penetrating oil. Once it starts moving, switch to 100% ATF.

Position two open end wrenches so that squeezing them is unscrewing/loosening. Start wrapping stretched surgical tubing around the two handles and things will happen rather quickly.

JRscooby wrote:
I have often worked like that, but I grab out near the end of the wrench, put twist on then hit between hand and wrench. I use a hammer, because it is easier to control the hit when using right tool.

A hammer works if the bolt/nut is screwed on to something stationary. We talkin' about truck camper tie downs here which are not tie firmly to anything. All you have working for you is mass of everything except the hex nut which you are trying to break free. Mr Newton would suggest the wrench vs the hammer is this situation.