swapping 3 way fridges

Just pwut it on a small inverter

something happened to my original post. I thought I typed that the 1999 fridge is a 3 way, but manual, and the 2005 fridge is a auto switch. I am not sure about the pilot light situation. I know the 1999 is a manual light with a push button at the top of the fridge, and there is no button. However, in the year and a half I had the popup, never used it on gas, only electric and 12v while driving.

Just seeing everyone who wants to, 2 cent's worth on switching, or if it is more trouble than it's worth

If both are 3-way fridge's, one with auto switching and one with manual switching, the manual one will be the most reliable on switching. Auto ones will have their glitches and not switch right sometimes. Had both, my experience. Run it on gas when traveling. Just set the switch to gas and monitor it while traveling. (listen for the flame when you stop along the trip)

thetroutman4 wrote:
If both are 3-way fridge's, one with auto switching and one with manual switching, the manual one will be the most reliable on switching. Auto ones will have their glitches and not switch right sometimes. Had both, my experience. Run it on gas when traveling. Just set the switch to gas and monitor it while traveling. (listen for the flame when you stop along the trip)

I think careful consideration should be made on this post. I think it is very important.

Years ago, I had to replace the coil on my manual fridge. I was going to upgrade to an automatic fridge. The owner of the company advised me to stay with the manual. He stated the automatic fridge would have a $100 Dinosaur board (or equivalent) to control the fridge. He said they had a high failure rate. He also pointed out they had a parasitic load on my 12-volt system, due to there constant demand for the 12-volts. He suggested I manually turn the knob, in lieu of having a computer which is known to fail do it.

Wayne

If given the choice between a fridge that needs a knob turned to light it versus an auto fridge, I'd go with the manual type.

It sucks coming back from being away for a couple days, finding your food spoiled because the 12 volt battery ran down and the fridge shut down. Having something that will continue keeping food cold regardless of the battery voltage can be useful.

I would just leave things as they are.

For one thing, I don't think the fridges will fit through the doors on the campers.

For another thing, you run the risk of damaging one or BOTH fridges in the transplant process, and having nothing to show for it at the end.

Operationally, don't fear the propane!!!

The fridge is far and away more efficient on propane, and it's as safe as any other method of powering the fridge.

Lots of people seem to have an irrational fear of propane from watching too many movies. Believe me, a half-dozen things would have to go wrong all at once for a Michael Bay explosion to occur. If you do basic maintenance, four of those six things will *NEVER* happen.

On 12V you're burning up your alternator and wiring harness. In fact, I disconnected the 12V on mine and reused that wiring for a lighter socket for charging my cell phone inside the camper. 12V is just ridiculous.

It's *NOT* expensive. The fridge uses very little propane. In 8 weekend outings, all firing the fridge on Friday afternoon and running continuously through Sunday, I went through 7lbs of propane, *WITH* the water heater running 1-2 times daily, and some furnace use at the end of the season!!!

I am not afraid to use propane and boondocking I will. It is just nice to have 12v running while traveling to make the fridge keep cool while driving.

was thinking along the same lines, it might not be worth it either.

It always amazes me the number of people afraid to run their rigs on propane while they drive.

I run mine on propane while traveling.

The point about the refrigerators not fitting through the doors is a good one, and probably the most important reason to leave them where they are.
I've had to open up walls to get camper refrigerators out.

Funny, Im almost unsure if I should try to respond to your question or take the opportunity to express my opinion on unrelated subject-how you use your refer...

I'm unclear though to the features your describing that might be advantageous and worthwhile to swap refers. If I had two campers, one 6 years newer, that would cause me to consider swapping. However the amount of actual work involved I couldn't justify, especially IF the only reason for swapping could be done in either case. Not sure Im making sense but they are both 3-ways? Only difference as I'm understanding is 'how' they are switched between sources?

In your case you want to run 12v on road, and either will? I wouldnt think worthwhile to swap for the ability to set in 'auto'- have plugged in the house to pre-cool, unplug when ready to go, start the truck and it switches to 12 volt (or gas if on) automatically, verses manually selecting AC, going back in to manually set to 12v (or gas).
Just my opinion-only you can decided if its worthwhile for you.

Our, an '01 3-way, has the auto source switch-over ability but I do not use. I manually select the source I want to use (or in actuality select the 2 sources I do NOT want to use).

IF you decided to swap though Id compare the actual specs for each 'virtually' identical modle, specificaly physical dimensions. 1/2" here or there might all mute.