Synthetic oil
I have a 2005 Dodge 1500. 5.7L Hemi. It has 73000 miles on it. I have kept the oil changes and maint. Very current. I am thinking of changing to a synthetic oil for my next oil change. Is it wort...
Forum Discussion
Dino is getting better, as are synthetics since I started driving in
the 60's. Synthetics has higher temp ranges, but dino has closed the
gap...still a gap though
So are the vehicles, plus they demand better oils today because of the
higher stress levels they attain
All of the OEM recommendations are for the MAXIMUM length between oil/filter
changes.
Now noodle this: why are there two or more maintenance schedules from
all OEMs I've ever read manuals on?
Normal duty cycle and severe duty cycle. Some call it heavy duty
That the severe duty has shorter change intervals...why?
Now noodle who are on these forums...like Tow Vehicles
Are these folks 'normal duty cycle' folks or better stated users of
their vehicles?
How about the various engine oil analysis firms? They test for metals,
coolant, H2O, acids, etc
Do you know which metal they look for and want more of?
Zinc (ZDDP and the variations) is the main component that helps
increase lubricity. Changes under heat and pressure to become a
phosphate glass film on both mating surfaces to NOT allow it to go
metal on metal'. This is the main ingredient that is consumed by
tough duty and is the main ingredient whether dino or synthetic
A delicate balance, as the lower the activation temperature, the
faster the “Zinc” reacts to form this film...but it poisons CATs. So,
for 'street' oil reduced Phosphorus content and volatility to protect
the SMOG components/system. This has lead to higher change intervals
and longer SMOG comonent/system life span and is for 'regular duty' cycles
Engines pushed HARD needs to have the 'Fast Burn Zinc' to protect
and has a shorter change interval. This is what the Boy Racers use.
Racing oils also has little to no detergent's, dispersant's, etc. Because
they are NOT meant to be left in there long. NOT a good thing for
street use
When to change, and what kind of oil is subjective to the usage,
engine architecture and the biggie...driving style.
Why I add powdered Molybdenum Sulfide (<2 microns) and now Tungsten
Disulfide. Tungsten is even better than Molyb. Plates both surfaces
for when it does go metal to metal. <2 microns because I use filters
that are good down to 5 microns, so it's not filtered out. Another
why PTFE isn't a good thing in ICE's
On that, metal to metal...designed to NOT when in specifications of
the engine/tranny/diff, but in the real world...it does go metal to metal
often enough to actually wear. For if it NEVER went metal to metal,
there would NEVER be any wear
As usual...there is no one size fits all. Folks take this kind of
stuff as out of context absolutes.
Decide where you are in reference to the OEMs specifications and whether
to use the 'regular duty cycle', or 'severe duty cycle' or whatever
Synthetics do have a higher spec, but dino has been closing the gap
for years...there is still that gap between'm...
Maybe someone will discuss 'dry starts'...so many don't believe that
over 40% of ICE's wear is from dry starts...
the 60's. Synthetics has higher temp ranges, but dino has closed the
gap...still a gap though
So are the vehicles, plus they demand better oils today because of the
higher stress levels they attain
All of the OEM recommendations are for the MAXIMUM length between oil/filter
changes.
Now noodle this: why are there two or more maintenance schedules from
all OEMs I've ever read manuals on?
Normal duty cycle and severe duty cycle. Some call it heavy duty
That the severe duty has shorter change intervals...why?
Now noodle who are on these forums...like Tow Vehicles
Are these folks 'normal duty cycle' folks or better stated users of
their vehicles?
How about the various engine oil analysis firms? They test for metals,
coolant, H2O, acids, etc
Do you know which metal they look for and want more of?
Zinc (ZDDP and the variations) is the main component that helps
increase lubricity. Changes under heat and pressure to become a
phosphate glass film on both mating surfaces to NOT allow it to go
metal on metal'. This is the main ingredient that is consumed by
tough duty and is the main ingredient whether dino or synthetic
A delicate balance, as the lower the activation temperature, the
faster the “Zinc” reacts to form this film...but it poisons CATs. So,
for 'street' oil reduced Phosphorus content and volatility to protect
the SMOG components/system. This has lead to higher change intervals
and longer SMOG comonent/system life span and is for 'regular duty' cycles
Engines pushed HARD needs to have the 'Fast Burn Zinc' to protect
and has a shorter change interval. This is what the Boy Racers use.
Racing oils also has little to no detergent's, dispersant's, etc. Because
they are NOT meant to be left in there long. NOT a good thing for
street use
When to change, and what kind of oil is subjective to the usage,
engine architecture and the biggie...driving style.
Why I add powdered Molybdenum Sulfide (<2 microns) and now Tungsten
Disulfide. Tungsten is even better than Molyb. Plates both surfaces
for when it does go metal to metal. <2 microns because I use filters
that are good down to 5 microns, so it's not filtered out. Another
why PTFE isn't a good thing in ICE's
On that, metal to metal...designed to NOT when in specifications of
the engine/tranny/diff, but in the real world...it does go metal to metal
often enough to actually wear. For if it NEVER went metal to metal,
there would NEVER be any wear
As usual...there is no one size fits all. Folks take this kind of
stuff as out of context absolutes.
Decide where you are in reference to the OEMs specifications and whether
to use the 'regular duty cycle', or 'severe duty cycle' or whatever
Synthetics do have a higher spec, but dino has been closing the gap
for years...there is still that gap between'm...
Maybe someone will discuss 'dry starts'...so many don't believe that
over 40% of ICE's wear is from dry starts...
