Air filters have different attributes and 'some' do 'better' as they clog, but
then they flow less or has a pressure drop across them
Velocity is way higher for air filters and several different approaches on how they do it
High flow after market has larger 'holes' or 'pores' than OEM, but most of them
have a "stick'm" (oil) applied
How those work is to force a change in direction of the 'air' so that the solids
(particles) collide with the filtering media. Where the "stick'm" then holds the
particles and is where they filter better as they clog...again...they then have
less flow and flow is the key attribute boy racers desire or are sold as the
benefit of them over OEM
Then the potential of over oiling to have oil misted into the intake
to foul the MAF/MAP and/or coat the intake run with oil. Am very versed
with them, as used to have them in all of my vehicles...till sat down
to really noodle how they work. Even had open cell foam on my side
draft Webers that you could see through...but that was when I was in
my teens and still in college...
OEM air is like oil filters and 'holes' or 'pores'. Folded to increase surface area
in the can (both air and oil).
Why on my GMT400/7.4L's OEM filter box have an over sized OEM filter. Not many
know that GM had two sizes for the OEM filter box. Buy mine from NAPA
The various OEM air filter 'gauges' measure the pressure drop on the
engine side of the filer. As it clogs, the gauge will move. I don't trust them and just change them every other year and more often if
driven in dusty/dirty conditions.