Synthetic Oils

Will you trust Bob?

"synthetic oil thickens less on shutdown your startup will be easier and so will the stress on your engine. This is perhaps the best thing the synthetic class has over the mineral based oils."

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-104/

Why don't you go to Wally World and read the label or better yet go on their webpages and look for it.

yr2017 wrote:

BeerCan wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

yr2017 wrote:
You can change anytime - but don't go back to dino

:R
Why? What will happen? Any links from an oil manufacture or other professional source to what will happen?

Nothing will happen except having more money in your wallet. Oil related failures when using correct spec and grade are virtually non existent, dino or syn. I know you know that but a lot of people are still blinded by the syn has to be better marketing. FWIW most syns today are hydrocracked group III mineral oils, so they are in reality dino oils anyway.

That's true of Mobil One. Not true of Valvoline and a new Castrol (not currently on the market). Read the label before you buy

The hole is getting deeper. Lets have a link to stop the hole digging. :B

wintersun wrote:

Heisenberg wrote:
What do they use in those Nascar engines that allow 9600 RPM?

Those engines are totally rebuilt after every race and the mechanics hope the engine will make it through the race before blowing up. My brother in law worked professionally for some of the top drag racers and they would do a complete rebuild after every event and the cars were makes a series of 1/4 mile runs so the engines had a mile or at most two on them before being taken completely apart.

You have information coming from the engine's manufacturer based on their testing and information coming from the API based on their testing and then you have the snake oil salesman who want you to pay three times as much for the synthetic oil they just happen to be selling at a very nice profit. Who are you going to trust?

I use a synthetic in my truck's Allison transmission as it means I need to change it every 48 months at a minimum (TES 295) instead of every 24 months at a minimum (with TES 389 fluid). The cost is about the same either way so I go with the more expensive ATF to be able to go longer between changes.

With any lubrication I go with the manufacturer's recommendations as their engineers know which ones are safe to use the seal materials that are used in their engines and transmssions. I remember in the 1980's when there were main seal failures with synthetic motor oils and also problems with ATF and transmission seals with GM vehicles.

As to seals pure synthetic motor oil WILL shrink seals. It does not today how ever because additive packages in synthetic motor oil today compensate for the shrinking characteristics of synthetic motor oil based on my readings. I moved to synthetic because the cost per mile is about the same as dino oil in our engines but we do not have an engines that hold 5 gallons of motor oil. :)

In air cooled engines synthetic oil has an edge at it does not start to break down at normal oil temps they produce. Our Polaris ATV oil cooling fan does not even kick on until 260F is hit and the red light does not come on until 300F. Even some top lines of synthetic oil can start to fail at 250F per the link that was provided earlier in this or another thread.

yr2017 wrote:

BeerCan wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

yr2017 wrote:
You can change anytime - but don't go back to dino

:R
Why? What will happen? Any links from an oil manufacture or other professional source to what will happen?

Nothing will happen except having more money in your wallet. Oil related failures when using correct spec and grade are virtually non existent, dino or syn. I know you know that but a lot of people are still blinded by the syn has to be better marketing. FWIW most syns today are hydrocracked group III mineral oils, so they are in reality dino oils anyway.

That's true of Mobil One. Not true of Valvoline and a new Castrol (not currently on the market). Read the label before you buy

Are you sure about that being a true statement. :@

Heisenberg wrote:
What do they use in those Nascar engines that allow 9600 RPM?

Those engines are totally rebuilt after every race and the mechanics hope the engine will make it through the race before blowing up. My brother in law worked professionally for some of the top drag racers and they would do a complete rebuild after every event and the cars were makes a series of 1/4 mile runs so the engines had a mile or at most two on them before being taken completely apart.

You have information coming from the engine's manufacturer based on their testing and information coming from the API based on their testing and then you have the snake oil salesman who want you to pay three times as much for the synthetic oil they just happen to be selling at a very nice profit. Who are you going to trust?

I use a synthetic in my truck's Allison transmission as it means I need to change it every 48 months at a minimum (TES 295) instead of every 24 months at a minimum (with TES 389 fluid). The cost is about the same either way so I go with the more expensive ATF to be able to go longer between changes.

With any lubrication I go with the manufacturer's recommendations as their engineers know which ones are safe to use the seal materials that are used in their engines and transmssions. I remember in the 1980's when there were main seal failures with synthetic motor oils and also problems with ATF and transmission seals with GM vehicles.

yr2017 wrote:

BeerCan wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

yr2017 wrote:
You can change anytime - but don't go back to dino

:R
Why? What will happen? Any links from an oil manufacture or other professional source to what will happen?

Nothing will happen except having more money in your wallet. Oil related failures when using correct spec and grade are virtually non existent, dino or syn. I know you know that but a lot of people are still blinded by the syn has to be better marketing. FWIW most syns today are hydrocracked group III mineral oils, so they are in reality dino oils anyway.

That's true of Mobil One. Not true of Valvoline and a new Castrol (not currently on the market). Read the label before you buy

:h You never did say what was going to happen? :h

ib516 wrote:
Synthetic oil is better in extreme cold, and extreme heat. I use a syn 0w40 because where I live, we can see -40* in winter.

I don't know of any dino below 10

Synthetic oil is better in extreme cold, and extreme heat. I use a syn 0w40 because where I live, we can see -40* in winter.

christopherglenn wrote:
Air filters - filter better as they are used up, then there is a large pressure drop across them and a resulting performance drop.

Fram makes two air filters - one is the regular (white) and the other is the yellow colored top. They are identical except for the yellow coloring and ten bucks more. Even if they are totally dirty on the bottom they still function.