Synthetic Oils

Before get some PMs asking what the heck and why of these additives...

Once they plate and both metal sliding/touching (there 'should' be an oil film
and never allow them to touch...but in the real world, they do touch every once
in a while) has co-efficient of friction less than the oil film.

So, 'when' they do touch...no metal on metal, but M-disulfide or T-disulfide
so little to no metal worn off

Both are listed as having the lowest co-efficient of friction known to mankind..for now ;)

The delta between mineral/dino and synthetic is no longer as great, but there
still is a difference

If you do not run your ICE hard, then dino is just fine

Yes, synthetic no longer have seal issues, but does have better additive
package that will dissolve or loosen crud that might cause issues
on a loooooooooong neglected engine. Similar to ATF's issues

Filtration is just as important, if not more important than the oil itself

For automotive type filters, it is all to do with two things. #1 particle size
allowed to pass. #2 holding capacity with an ancillary PSI drop

Having more sq area plays with #2

Once the element starts to fill up and clog the 'holes'...it starts to impede
the flow rate. Therefore pressure drop (there is a high side and low side...keeping
that differential down to a min key to good flow)

If the OEM recommends every other...they feel (and assume empirically) that the
surface area has the capacity to NOT cause a major pressure drop

The other components of a 'good' filter is both the by-pass valve and anti-flow
back valve.

Once the filtration element starts to load up and clog...the by-pass valve
(preset to some PSi level) will start to open and allow un-filtered oil
to flow through

Oblique this...additive stuff or snake oil...LOL whenever hear folks asking if
Teflon (PTFE) is a good thing. No...worst thing you can do for any ICE. PTFE
is wonderful for the 'right' lube application, but so wrong for any ICE oil

Plastic, so it's thermal rate of expansion high compared to other lube additives
(like Moly or Tungsten disulfides). So 'good' filters, filter them out quickly
Good filter has a smallest particulate size allowed to pass in the 3-7 microns, IIRC

Other is that the large PTFE particles build up in the oil galleries to plug and
that it does not plate

MolyB disulfide and Tungsten disulfide manufactured down to the right size (less
than 3 microns) passes through all but the best filters and does plate

Hannibal,

"Never heard of it. However,"

Well now you have.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Hannibal wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
13 Cummins comes from the factory with Rotella synthetic.

Change any time.

Cummins comes factory filled with Rotella when Valvoline Premium Blue is Cummins own recipe?

Yes, that is what Stewart Miller a Regional Training Manager said in May in Pahrump, NV at the local Chrysler dealer. He was a guest speaker at the TurboDiesel Register May Madness Rally.

Never heard of it. However,

http://www.ngvi.com/Documents/CF-2276ValCumminsExpandingGlobalRelationsSheet111512.pdf


And,
Premium Blue™
Valvoline is the only global lubricants partner with Cummins, the world’s largest independent diesel engine manufacturer. This exclusive relationship includes joint ventures, factory-fill agreements, and exclusive extended drain endorsements. Together we are testing and documenting the superior protection and extended service capabilities of Premium Blue technology, demonstrating a reduced total cost of ownership for customers.

http://www.valvoline.com/international/valvoline-brands

Mobil 1 synthetic has a higher flash point which is good for towing in hot weather. It also will reduce the risk of your oil cooking on you turbo bearings after a hard uphill tow in a hot day. So I spend an extra $35 bucks on my oil and an extra $15 for a good quality oil filter. MSRP on my TV was $40K in 2008.

As to the post that a dirt in an oil filter will filter better can not get traction in my mind.

Traction or not many many manufactures say to change oil filters every other time. Honda, Harley and others say every other time.

Care to guess why they would do such a thing?

Hannibal wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
13 Cummins comes from the factory with Rotella synthetic.

Change any time.

Cummins comes factory filled with Rotella when Valvoline Premium Blue is Cummins own recipe?

Yes, that is what Stewart Miller a Regional Training Manager said in May in Pahrump, NV at the local Chrysler dealer. He was a guest speaker at the TurboDiesel Register May Madness Rally.

jalichty wrote:
Thanks for all the responses guys. I will probably go to synthetic on my next change. One of the thoughts out there is to change out the filter at 5,000 miles if your are extending to 10,000 before changing the oil. What say you on this?

I have found doing this simple step can actually start clearing up the motor oil again. I say you have a great and low cost idea. The amount of oil you have to add or prefill the filter with does help refresh the additive package since we know motor oil does not really wear out but it is the additive package that gets used up.

As to the post that a dirt in an oil filter will filter better can not get traction in my mind. :)

I did have a BMW and even before quart low warning light would come on I could see the red oil pressure warning keep burning a few seconds longer on start up. That means in my mind a dirty oil filter is not good for any engine. I would notice this before the 5K mile mark for oil changes.

If one can change their own oil filter easily I think changing it every 5K miles would be cheap engine protection practice. I do that in the old high mileage 1989 F700 flat dump truck with the 429 big block engine after taking it to Rotella Synthetic 4 years ago every year or two since I seldom sees over 500 miles a year.

I know the synthetic oil is good for more than 500 miles so it makes know sense to change it each year. I do not know the hours/miles on the old work truck but it is showing about 150K. I can tell the radiator was replaced many years ago with a high end after market copper raditor.

A quick filter change (I do them cold) is good when buying a used vehicle that you have to drive home before you get a chance to change the oil. A gallon ice cream bucket or any like container with a sealing lid is all you require to do a neat job.

It can be a good way when on an extended RV trip to extend an oil change interval and can be done so fast anywhere so you do not raise questions like a full oil change might.

Cummins12V98 wrote:
13 Cummins comes from the factory with Rotella synthetic.

Change any time.

Cummins comes factory filled with Rotella when Valvoline Premium Blue is Cummins own recipe?

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

yr2017 wrote:
You can change anytime - but don't go back to dino

:R
Why? What will happen? Any links from an oil manufacture or other professional source to what will happen?

Nothing will happen except having more money in your wallet. Oil related failures when using correct spec and grade are virtually non existent, dino or syn. I know you know that but a lot of people are still blinded by the syn has to be better marketing. FWIW most syns today are hydrocracked group III mineral oils, so they are in reality dino oils anyway.