Taking the plunge: 5.4 Triton spark plug change

Sport45 wrote:
Note to self: If you ever buy a 3-valve Triton new, pull the plugs and apply the special anti-seize before it's too late.

Ford solved the problem with the 3 valve motors sometime in late 2007, on 2008 model year trucks. So if you have a non early build 2008 model or newer 3 valve, spark plug swap at 100K shouldn't involve any special tools or prayer.

You read all the bulletins so good luck. Had my plugs changed at slightly over 100,000. He did the heating up engine and let it cool and reheat to certain temp. Broke them loose a little and squirted break free or some solvent in around the plugs. Let it work for a while and backed them out.
One thing I did was run fuel system cleaner through the tank before taking it in. It was supposed to clean carbon etc too.
He showed me a couple of plugs. The threads looked pretty clean with some blackening but no build up. I think one was still broken.
The electrodes were pretty well worn. Get a better spark with wider gap but it strains the coils etc. Had to replace number 8 coil.

Tim and Amy wrote:
On the 6.8L they say the same thing. I'm not sure if it is region specific or what.. But mine came out very easy. A word of caution as another has mentioned. My new plugs backed out by them selves. I had to on one side back out on their own. So the engine developed a ticking noise and was a little sluggish. No codes, or anything. I thought I developed an exhaust manifold leak. I ended up taking it to a shop, they said the head gasket or head was bad and quoted over 5k to fix it.
I took it home and decided that the last thing done 6 months prior was the plugs. Sure enough found two backed out. I pulled them, cleaned them, dropped them in and no ticking, truck ran fine. I was worried that the extra stress put on those to coil packs would cause and issue, but never had a problem.

I too stressed over changing the plugs, but at least you are prepared. So far everything that they said would go wrong on that V10, I never had an issue with. So I'm not too sure why some have issues and some don't.

I don't know why or how this works, but a vehicle knows when you take care of it. I've seen cars that are neglected and things that break that never should. It's like the vehicle just gives up.

On the 6.8L they say the same thing. I'm not sure if it is region specific or what.. But mine came out very easy. A word of caution as another has mentioned. My new plugs backed out by them selves. I had to on one side back out on their own. So the engine developed a ticking noise and was a little sluggish. No codes, or anything. I thought I developed an exhaust manifold leak. I ended up taking it to a shop, they said the head gasket or head was bad and quoted over 5k to fix it.
I took it home and decided that the last thing done 6 months prior was the plugs. Sure enough found two backed out. I pulled them, cleaned them, dropped them in and no ticking, truck ran fine. I was worried that the extra stress put on those to coil packs would cause and issue, but never had a problem.

I too stressed over changing the plugs, but at least you are prepared. So far everything that they said would go wrong on that V10, I never had an issue with. So I'm not too sure why some have issues and some don't.

Gdetrailer wrote:

mosseater wrote:
Thanks for the tips. I also bought a can of mass air flow sensor cleaner. Also due for engine coolant change and might do the transfer case and diffs while I'm at it. The list never ends, but I can't complain. I haven't really done much at all to it since new and it's always performed great for me. Get it all done and might get another 100K out of it.

Your welcome!

Trying to turn my aggravation with the dealer experience into helping the next person from becoming an "guinea pig" of expensive guessing games.

I should note on cleaning the throttle body, it is helpful to have an assistant during this process. You need to turn on the key to engine run (but do not start) and have the assistant mash the throttle pedal to the floor.

This opens the throttle plate and allows you to take a rag soaked in cleaner and swab out the build up under and around the plate. You can spray cleaner in there but it must be marked as sensor safe. I used the rag for heavy build up and then sprayed a few short bursts to get between the throttle plate and the bore that the rag could not reach.

If you do spray cleaner in to the throttle body you will need to allow a lot of time for all that to evaporate before starting the engine. Even then it may take a few attempts to get it started (basically you are flooding the engine with the spray since it is flammable).

If you do a few searches for throttle body cleaning you will run into some very good descriptions on how to do it.. One of them basically takes you through the process by removing the throttle body from the engine. I didn't feel like taking that much time so I short cut it by skipping the removal.

I can use my "celulose assistant" to hold the throttle open. Since I didn't get the power rear sliding window (dang it!) I made up a piece of broom handle with a rubber cane cushion on both ends which I use to manually open the rear slider from the driver's seat. I've gotten good at it and barely need to look in the mirror anymore. I also use it to push the brake pedal when doing my light check. I push the pedal with the stick and bring the power seat forward to hold it, then walk back to check my lights and brake coil buzz. Should work fine for the throttle too.

Just like your own body...gotta take care of it in order for it to stay healthy
and last...too many abuse or more likely neglect inanimate objects like our
vehicles. Betcha they would take better care of it if it was a horse or any
draft animal with flesh and blood...toss in feelings...

I buy on sale spray cans of primer/finish paint. Whenever am working on any of my
vehicles have a can and spray anything that either has a scratch, rusty
spot (I also have a wire tooth brush for those spots) and where ever it
remotely looks like it needs a spot touch up

Ditto grease gun, rags, etc...

Because am anal about my stuff and also keep'm till either the wheels
fall off and/or can't/won't fix it anymore...

mosseater wrote:
Thanks for the tips. I also bought a can of mass air flow sensor cleaner. Also due for engine coolant change and might do the transfer case and diffs while I'm at it. The list never ends, but I can't complain. I haven't really done much at all to it since new and it's always performed great for me. Get it all done and might get another 100K out of it.

Your welcome!

Trying to turn my aggravation with the dealer experience into helping the next person from becoming an "guinea pig" of expensive guessing games.

I should note on cleaning the throttle body, it is helpful to have an assistant during this process. You need to turn on the key to engine run (but do not start) and have the assistant mash the throttle pedal to the floor.

This opens the throttle plate and allows you to take a rag soaked in cleaner and swab out the build up under and around the plate. You can spray cleaner in there but it must be marked as sensor safe. I used the rag for heavy build up and then sprayed a few short bursts to get between the throttle plate and the bore that the rag could not reach.

If you do spray cleaner in to the throttle body you will need to allow a lot of time for all that to evaporate before starting the engine. Even then it may take a few attempts to get it started (basically you are flooding the engine with the spray since it is flammable).

If you do a few searches for throttle body cleaning you will run into some very good descriptions on how to do it.. One of them basically takes you through the process by removing the throttle body from the engine. I didn't feel like taking that much time so I short cut it by skipping the removal.

Thanks for the tips. I also bought a can of mass air flow sensor cleaner. Also due for engine coolant change and might do the transfer case and diffs while I'm at it. The list never ends, but I can't complain. I haven't really done much at all to it since new and it's always performed great for me. Get it all done and might get another 100K out of it.

mosseater wrote:

Swmpbgy1 wrote:
Greetings........

I just changed the plugs in my 07 Expedition EL.....correct me if I'm wrong, but your 07 should have the one piece spark plug...not the 2 piece that had the tendancy to break. I changed all 8 of mine in about 2 hours....NO breakage......all of mine were the one piece motorcraft plugs. They were the originals as the truck only has 45000 miles on it. They were a bit hard to break loose, but none broke.

Good luck......
Swmpbgy1

I'm getting a lot of semi-dated, conflicting information about exactly when the upgrade changes were made in the head and plug design. My belief is that the changes were made mid to late-year '07 and came to the showroom floor early-mid '08.

Looking at the new plugs, compared to the pictures of the old plugs (since I don't have mine out yet), they look almost identical. They obviously have a parting line between the thread and the tail, so I'm sticking with they're two piece. Everything I'm reading tells me they're somehow "improved". Don't know if, or to what degree that's true. It's also possible that they used a different plug number/type in the Expy's than in the 150's, so that may account for possible disparities, too. I'll give details when I get it finished.

Your best bet is to check with you local Ford dealer Parts counter, give them the manufacture date and the VIN number. This IS the only way to correctly identify any changes which may have happened.

They will be able to give you the correct plug PN which you should be able to cross reference to any of your favorite brands of plugs.

Having just recently gone through a dealer nightmare experience I am going to give you a few tips..

If your layout is like our 2006 F250 you will have a radiator overflow tank mounted above the drives side of the engine. To reach the rear plugs on the driverside, remove the screws holding the tank in place. This allows you to move the tank out of the way and will be able to get to the drivers side plugs much easier.

To get to the passenger side rear plugs, I had to remove the air cleaner box which sits on top of the throttle body ('06 air cleaner box is on top of the TB and has the MAF sensor included on the assembly). I was able to leave the MAF sensor connected and push the air cleaner box aside. This allows access to the passenger rear plugs.

I originally had my dealer change the plugs but that was because they were chasing a different problem and they decided the plugs were worn out and thought new plugs would fix it..

It didn't.

But now after they changed the plugs, I was now getting raw gas fumes in the cab but only when backing up?

So.. I pulled the cops one at a time and discovered #7 plug (remember the dealer changed the plugs..) was HALF TURN LOOSE :E :M

I Tightened the plug and decided to check all an no others were loose..

Lessened the fumes but did not get rid of them.

So.. a few internet searches and I found the answer.. The plugs STILL were not tight enough :E They MUST BE PROPERLY TORQUED OR THEY WILL LEAK.

If you do not have a 3/8" torque wrench, GET ONE AND USE IT. DO NOT GUESS at it by feel, over tightening risks stripping the aluminum heads and under tightening risks raw gas fumes and possible plug ejection.

My understanding on my '06 the plugs at the factory were torqued to 33 FT LBs but when replacing they MUST be torqued to 25 FT LBS.

Your '07 may be the same but I would recommend asking your local Ford dealer truck mechanic for the actual specs for your vehicle.

An additional item, while you have the air filter box off the throttle body, NOW is a good time to CLEAN the throttle body.

This is what put our truck in the shop in the first place. What happens is the crankcase vent is plumbed in right below the throttle body.

This allows heated oil vapors to collect under and around the throttle body plate. This over time and miles creates enough build up that the throttle plate starts sticking.

Starting with the 3V 5.4s Ford switched from the old throttle cable which was direct to your foot pedal to the electronic "drive by wire" system..

With the old direct cable you could detect a sticky throttle plate, drive by wire YOU CAN'T FEEL it sticking and worse yet the computer give you no CEL to tell you..

Instead what happens is if the throttle plate sticks or fails to return to proper closed position the computer commands the system into a fail safe "low" idle. Symptoms is a very slow idle in gear, random stalling or almost stalling when going from drive or reverse to park.

If left long enough you get what we got.. a wrench AND a COMPLETELY DISABLED THROTTLE. This can happen anytime without warning and worse yet while you are driving..

We had this happen while DW was driving home from work during this winter in SUBZERO weather just a few miles from home.. I work an hr away so I was going to be a while before getting to her. I told her to not shut the engine off since I did not know if it would restart.

Once I got home I tossed a chain on and towed it home.

Shut it off in our driveway and restarted.. The wrench light went out and the throttle now worked.

This symptom mystified my local dealer and they threw thousands of dollars in parts and labor at it..

I ended up fixing it by doing a internet search and cleaning the throttle body..

So, get a torque wrench and use it and clean the throttle body and you should be good to go for a while.

A dirty throttle body can ruin your vacation if you are not aware of the symptoms and how to fix. By the way I suspect the dealer would not clean but replace the throttle body.. That part runs about $300 on the internet and I would be willing to bet the dealer would charge better than $600 plus labor..

From a member over at my Suburban/SUV forum. He also owns a F150 and posted this




spark plugs for a ford 5.4, 3 pages


20003 F250 V-10, spark plug change, 3 pages


What is the final word on Ford spark plug spitting, 4 pages


Another sparkplug problem with Ford's 5.4 Triton

There are more, but thought these from my files covers the OP's TV

Such a poor design and IMHO, management decided to NOT spend the
tooling costs for a proper design

They just used the standard body and added that nose...which is what
breaks off due to build up of deposits between it and the head casting

Proper would have been to pay for the tooling to have the taper seal
seat extended waaaaaaay down there so that there is no cavity for deposits
to build up in

The blowing out of spark plugs was another issue and another poor
design metric

Aluminum head, so the number of threads for proper spark plug retention
requires more threads than cast iron

The head design done and to change the molds expensive. They did find
a way to increase the numbers of threads engaged to allow proper torque
for the plugs. Up till then, the manual spec'd torque was too low to
hold and also to prevent from stripping out the aluminum threads