TC shifted

Sidecarflip
You need to move the tork lift brackets to the other hole. No way they're wider than the camper unless the camper is only like 7' wide and brackets on wide setting.

Op campers move. Just shift it back over. And if it bugs you, shim it against the wheel wells with a couple boards.

Wow, you guys are picky. I used to take our camper off every time we got to a camp site.

Thanks for the responses Our truck is a 2016 3500 Ram with the Cummins we do have a rubber mat maybe to hard of a compound? The NYS inspection is on brakes lights horn and any thing the mechanic thinks that could make the shop money. There is a local truck shop that services motor homes but my better half wanted to use the dealer we bought it from. Next time will be different I will just get it done at the other shop.
Steve

burningman wrote:
Remember, if it's a Ford the cab has to come off the chassis to check the oil.

Come on guys this is silly. I changed the oil on my 2015 F350 6.7 2 days ago in my driveway by crawling underneath it and easily draining the oil and removing the filter. and on the top side the oil fill cap and even the dipstick are very easy to get to.
It actually is easier than our 7.3 or the 460. which are easy also.

burningman wrote:
Remember, if it's a Ford the cab has to come off the chassis to check the oil.

Facts are not facts just because you make it up! Pretty good imagination though! Bahahahahaha.........

I'm not going to touch the camper off for service comments. That depends entirely on the service facility and if or not the vehicle has to be placed on a lift and how much overhead clearance the shop has.....

...and, cabs on late model Ford Diesel pickup trucks are routinely removed for engine work, not hard to get off and working on the stuffed under the firewall engine becomes much easier. In fact, if you have a perforated head gasket or any head related issue that impacts the passangers side head on a Late model Ford pickup, the ONLY way to remove the rear head bolts is to remove the cab. Conversely, timing chain replacement on a light duty F series eco boost engine (F150) requires cab removal as well, again, not a big deal.

On to the rest of the OP's post about the shifting TC in his bed. Campers shift for a number of reasons. One is the bed is slippery. A rubber bed mat or a spray in bedliner like Rhino Liner goes a long way toward planting the camper securely but, no matter how good the bed liner is, if the camper isn't secured properly with the tie downs, it's likely to shift, especially in an off camber situation so...

I'll probably get some flak here on my comments but...

I don't care for Tork Lift tie downs, especially the front tie downs. The problem is geometry. You are exerting securing force (through the tie down turn buckles at a splayed angle relative to the tie down plates on the camper itself, IOW, the tie downs atttach to the Tork Lifts in a plane outboard of the edge of the camper itself (Imagine a inverted V). That allows the securement force to spread outward and any loosening of the tiedown's become amplified. If the get loos, they get really loose and allow the camper to move in a lateral motion opposite the force applied. Not so much with the rear tie down's because the angle of pull isn't as splayed out.

Why I run HappyJac tie downs on the front and Tork Lift on the back. The Happyjac's allow you to exert the securement pull in a near vertical or slightly inward plane so the camper is restrained from movement. I use the Tork Lifts in the back because I prefer them over the HappyJac bumper buttons as they are more rigid than the ends of your bumper, but that is the only reason.

Been hauling truck campers for many years, off road and on road and I've never had one shift in the bed. The only time I've had one crooked, is loading it crooked.

I'm not sure who would fall such a ridiculous claim of pulling the cab for routine maintenance. It's not like it is a COE (cab over engine) with a forward flipping cab. Show me a valid link where oil changes require cab removal on a pickup.

Grit dog wrote:

Photomike wrote:
What year is your truck? I have heard of dealers doing that on newer trucks as it is easier to lift the cab to do the service. If it is older, or the cab does not lift then I would find another service place.

No one pulls the cab for an oil change and fuel filters. That stuff can all be done at home in the driveway without a jack even if it's a 4x4.

However, idk how much the camper has "shifted" . My OCD would want to straighten it out, but by the same token, I've had the camper shift an inch or 2 and or loaded it crooked and I didn't notice any difference from the drivers seat.

Actually we have had this discussion before that a number of shops wanted to pull the cab to do oil changes on the newer units, I think it was the diesels and if I am not mistaking it was the Fords.

To me it does not make sense but I guess if that is what is recommended then the shops want to do that. I am sure that it is listed this way as a regular service over just an oil change to get more money.

Photomike wrote:
What year is your truck? I have heard of dealers doing that on newer trucks as it is easier to lift the cab to do the service. If it is older, or the cab does not lift then I would find another service place.

No one pulls the cab for an oil change and fuel filters. That stuff can all be done at home in the driveway without a jack even if it's a 4x4.

However, idk how much the camper has "shifted" . My OCD would want to straighten it out, but by the same token, I've had the camper shift an inch or 2 and or loaded it crooked and I didn't notice any difference from the drivers seat.

steve_l wrote:
Hi I am a first time TC owner with a question. My truck is dedicated to just hauling our Cirrus camper so it has never been off. The truck is up for state inspection and fuel and oil service but our dealer said I must remove the camper. After looking at the camper it has shifted to one side is there any thing I should be concerned with when I remove the camper? Thanks Steve

You can re-position the camper. Be sure to find a dead-level paved surface first. Lift the camper and make whatever adjustments needed with the truck.
After you get it squared up, take it home and take it off.