Television / Battery usage

RoyB wrote:
Here is a TYPICAL 30AMP Wiring configuration showing what is controlled by the 120VAC and 12VDC Power Distribution Panel...



The basic concept for the RV Trailers is to be able to work from Batteries only with the bare necessities or from the 120VAC Electric Pedestals running all of the appliance and functions..

when camping off the power grid on batteries only you can add an INVERTER connected to the battery bank to run many of the 120VAC items. The Battery Bank would have to be many batteries to run the whole trailer.

With this in mind when camping off the power grid alot of folks will just run the 120VAC Home entertainment items from a smaller INVERTER. The rest of the bare necessities will run directly from the 12VDC battery bank.

You have to plan everything out to be successful camping off the power grid running from the battery bank.

LARGE capacity INVERTERS are very battery hungry...

Roy Ken

True, a surge protector is optional but only at the risk of some very expensive electrical/electronic damage. Mine has saved me once and I will never plug in without one.

fitznj wrote:
>>>Will my truck recharge the battery while I am driving after spending the night at Sams club or rest area?

It depends how the truck is wired at the trailer socket. I do NOT have the extra charging connector wired up - so the TT batteries do not get charged as I drive

>>> and how long would it take?

Deep cycle batteries generally take longer to fully charge - my batteries take about 12 hours to charge but then I charge at a low current - which usually extends the life of batteries.

>>> Should I invest in a solar battery keeper?

Does not hurt - but check the wattage/current, do the arithmetic to calculate how long it will take to charge the battery.

>>> If plugged into a 30 amp power source at a rv site is my TT battery being recharged?

Yes - the built-in 120V/12V will send 12-14 volts to the battery to charge it up - again look at you specific model to determine current and do the arithmetic to calculate charge time.

>>> Do I need a 12v TV?
Depends - if you're not hooked up to 120v, then you're running the TT off the batteries - so essentially 12v. Inverters will suck your batteries dry in no time.



G

My 32" LCD/LED screen draws 33w in standard mode. That is not a lot of power to be drawn through the inverter. This would be about 3amps to the 12V system. A 100 AH battery drawn to 50% of it's rating would power the TV for 16 hrs.

>>>Will my truck recharge the battery while I am driving after spending the night at Sams club or rest area?

It depends how the truck is wired at the trailer socket. I do NOT have the extra charging connector wired up - so the TT batteries do not get charged as I drive

>>> and how long would it take?

Deep cycle batteries generally take longer to fully charge - my batteries take about 12 hours to charge but then I charge at a low current - which usually extends the life of batteries.

>>> Should I invest in a solar battery keeper?

Does not hurt - but check the wattage/current, do the arithmetic to calculate how long it will take to charge the battery.

>>> If plugged into a 30 amp power source at a rv site is my TT battery being recharged?

Yes - the built-in 120V/12V will send 12-14 volts to the battery to charge it up - again look at you specific model to determine current and do the arithmetic to calculate charge time.

>>> Do I need a 12v TV?
Depends - if you're not hooked up to 120v, then you're running the TT off the batteries - so essentially 12v. Inverters will suck your batteries dry in no time.

G

RoyB wrote:
Here is a TYPICAL 30AMP Wiring configuration showing what is controlled by the 120VAC and 12VDC Power Distribution Panel...



The basic concept for the RV Trailers is to be able to work from Batteries only with the bare necessities or from the 120VAC Electric Pedestals running all of the appliance and functions..

when camping off the power grid on batteries only you can add an INVERTER connected to the battery bank to run many of the 120VAC items. The Battery Bank would have to be many batteries to run the whole trailer.

With this in mind when camping off the power grid alot of folks will just run the 120VAC Home entertainment items from a smaller INVERTER. The rest of the bare necessities will run directly from the 12VDC battery bank.

You have to plan everything out to be successful camping off the power grid running from the battery bank.

LARGE capacity INVERTERS are very battery hungry...

Roy Ken

x2

OldSoldier53 wrote:
RoyB. I really like your graphic. I am redoing an old TT and need to add for a MicroWave and TV. Would you be able to attach the file in a downloadable or printable form? Thanks.

Right click on the image. Left click on "save image as". Select where you want to save the image file. Click save.

RoyB. I really like your graphic. I am redoing an old TT and need to add for a MicroWave and TV. Would you be able to attach the file in a downloadable or printable form? Thanks.

Here is a TYPICAL 30AMP Wiring configuration showing what is controlled by the 120VAC and 12VDC Power Distribution Panel...



The basic concept for the RV Trailers is to be able to work from Batteries only with the bare necessities or from the 120VAC Electric Pedestals running all of the appliance and functions..

when camping off the power grid on batteries only you can add an INVERTER connected to the battery bank to run many of the 120VAC items. The Battery Bank would have to be many batteries to run the whole trailer.

With this in mind when camping off the power grid alot of folks will just run the 120VAC Home entertainment items from a smaller INVERTER. The rest of the bare necessities will run directly from the 12VDC battery bank.

You have to plan everything out to be successful camping off the power grid running from the battery bank.

LARGE capacity INVERTERS are very battery hungry...

Roy Ken

Quote:

What we are planning for next winter is to spend a few days boondocking on our way to Fla. or Arizona or Texas and then find a long term site for a month (Jan)

Long term site: on shore power ? or not.

And Yes, information regarding the coach you have, along with what CONVERTER is installed in it, is needed information.

As far as battery charging while driving, it "depends".

A motor-home has large heavy-duty cables allowing in the engine alternator to supply more amps to recharge the batteries.

A trailer most likely uses a 7-pin connecter with small wires. That will allow only 5 to 10 amps of current for every hour of driving. Not enough to meet your expectations.

Unless your old motor-home has been modernized and upgraded (highly unlikely) you will have problems. You need to test your usage out by camping near home to see how your current set-up works.

The worst thing someone can do is head out camping like you intended and find out the batteries are dead the very first morning you wake up camping.

ddro wrote:
Ok here's a stupid question and I hope you can help.
I need a tv and will get a lcd tv BUT the way I understand it and I am probably wrong is that when I plug into power at a site it actually goes to the inverter? Is the power to my outlets 120v or will it be 12 volt DC?
I was told that the lights were 12v or 120v which is it I am wondering?
Also what kind of led bulbs would I need to replace my stock bulbs to led? Is it worth it as far as battery consumption?
What we are planning for next winter is to spend a few days boondocking on our way to Fla. or Arizona or Texas and then find a long term site for a month (Jan)
Will my truck recharge the battery while I am driving after spending the night at Sams club or rest area and how long would it take? Should I invest in a solar battery keeper? If plugged into a 30 amp power source at a rv site is my TT battery being recharged?
Do I need a 12v TV?
Sorry for all these questions but I just want to be sure I am doing things right and not hurting my battery on either my TT or vehicle.
Thanks for all your help

Year, make and model of your TT would help but in general:

1) Outlets are always 120V
2) Lights are generally 12V. My RV has one light in the bathroom that's 120V but all the rest are 12V (bathroom also has 12V lights)
3) When you are plugged in a CONVERTER converts 120V to 12V to power your 12V things (lights, water pump, possibly your fridge, etc.). The converter also charges your battery. When plugged in, 120V goes to your outlets and other things that need 120V (A/C, fridge, etc.)
4) Your truck alternator will charge the RV battery while you're driving.
5) There are lots of threads on LED lights. It's worth replacing them for the lower battery consumption. Often they are brighter, too. The type you need depends on the type of bulb you currently have installed, but in general the "warm white" panel-type LEDs are the best and brightest replacement. They come with adapters for many types of bulbs.
6) A 12V TV is up to you. You could use it when you're not plugged in. I had a Haier brand LED-backlit LCD TV in my limo. It was 12V and used hardly any power at all.

Good luck and have fun!