Thickness of flat bed

Thanks so much for all the advice. I will visit those web sites and print off the replys and carry them with me when I visit with him.

Thanks again

Radio

"He asked me how thick I would want the bed and if I wanted to use diamond plate?"

Are you referring to the thickness of the decking material, or from the frame to the top of the deck?

If your intent is to only haul a TC, the thickness of the decking material can be pretty thin. The TC will span the cross braces, which support the weight of the TC. Fact is, to haul a TC you really do not need a deck. If you haul things other than a TC, then you have to consider the strength as it to pertains to loading the stuff you haul. With a real thin decking material (steel), it will dent easily. You can't go to far wrong with a wood deck. It will not dent, stuff does not slide as easy as a metal (steel) deck, and if it gets damaged it is easier to repair. I have had Steel, Aluminum (1/4"thk), and wood decks. Aluminum is my first choice, but cost a lot, wood is my second choice.

If the thickness you refer to is from the frame to the top of the deck, you then must decide if you want the deck flat, or with short wheel wells. Flat will raise your TC, whereas wheel wells will lower the TC. I have had both types for hauling TCs.

Wayne

Jfet wrote:

-Kevin wrote:
Flat bed height depends on the design but at a minimum you’re looking at about 4"-5". Most beds are over built by a huge margin but the general rule of thumb (for ¾ and 1 ton trucks) is C4x5.4 around the outside and for rails, C3x4.1 for cross-members (every 12”). Rails have 3" openings for the cross-members to be reassessed into them.
I have been doing a lot of research on this as next month I will start my build for the same purpose, more storage.

That actually sounds nearly as beefy as the 20 foot flatbed on my Isuzu NRR truck, and it was made to haul about 10,000 pounds.

Yup, close, all I have seen are 5" C but the weights are the about the same per foot. 8 foot bed=4k weight, 20 foot bed=10k. like other have said, it's all about application.

this might save you a lot of money if you don't mind going to Fla.
http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/hvo/4007239469.html





My flat bed has 1 3/4"extruded deck welded on 2 sets of sills (the extra set was added by me for additional strength ) of 4"x3" sills

Usually around 4".
However check these out.
http://www.cmtruckbeds.com/truck-beds/

and

http://www.starlitetrailers.com/truckbed.html.

Google "flat bed truck beds has a whole bunch of websites on the subject. You might find one you like or specs for it or some thing to show your manufacturer.

I have seen some with metal frames and wood decks, just make sure you use a good fir tongue and groove. Remember to keep it as light as possible...this will allow you to haul more.

Measure the distance between the top of your frame and the top of the cab on your truck, then measure the distance from the bottom of your camper to the bottom of the cab overhang, make sure the floor height of the deck is so that the camper doesn’t stick up too high over the cab or sits on the cab. I used checker on the floor and a rubber mat on top of that to keep the camper from sliding around too much, Check out Alum-Line’s web site, they will make a deck out of aluminum and will mount boxes on it for a reasonable price. If you are taking off a truck box, you will notice the frame is not flat like a cab and chassis. Run a straight edge along the length to get the proper height as you will have to block up the low areas. If you use flat plate stuff tends to slide around on the deck if you are going to haul with the truck when the camper is off.

-Kevin wrote:
Flat bed height depends on the design but at a minimum you’re looking at about 4"-5". Most beds are over built by a huge margin but the general rule of thumb (for ¾ and 1 ton trucks) is C4x5.4 around the outside and for rails, C3x4.1 for cross-members (every 12”). Rails have 3" openings for the cross-members to be reassessed into them.
I have been doing a lot of research on this as next month I will start my build for the same purpose, more storage.

That actually sounds nearly as beefy as the 20 foot flatbed on my Isuzu NRR truck, and it was made to haul about 10,000 pounds.

Our supply truck for our water well drilling business was about 12 inches thick and was a "water bed". It held about 1000 gallons of water. Thickness depends on your application.

On beds I build for contractors, farmers etc a 1 ton or larger truck I use 1/8" (.125) hot rolled floor plate which weighs 6.16 lbs per sq ft. If you looking to save some weight and will not be hauling heavy equipment with weight concentrated in small places such as tires on a skid steer you could go with
12 gauge @ 5.25 lbs per sq ft
14 gauge @ 3.75 lbs per sq ft.
(Floor plate thickness is measured WITH OUT the hump)

Floor plate is not necessary for a truck bed but it look better and usually will stay painted longer.

Smooth hot rolled 11 gauge (.1196)is just under 1/8" is 5 lbs per sq ft.