Tight nuts

Me Again wrote:
How is rim heating done without burning up the clear coating? Chris

Oh...it will burn up the clear coat. But if your problem is to remove the wheel, this will remove the wheel and retain the studs.

If you want to keep the clear coat? Don't use heat. Get a 4 foot cheater pipe over your breaker bar. Take the handle off your floor jack and use that. Don't ever use a torque wrench to REMOVE tight nuts. Unless you want to replace your torque wrench.

If the nuts are rusted onto the studs. You may break the studs. And so just replace them. Then once the wheel comes off with the broken studs, if the nuts are galvanized into the lug holes, use a punch to punch out the studs and lug nuts. It will take a big punch and a bigger hammer. Chance are you'll need to buy new lug nuts. You'll never get those studs out of the lug nuts.

Not smart to use anti seize on the threads. But it is smart to use anti-seize on the outside diameter of the nuts. So they don't seize on the hole in the alum rim.

I have never seen an Aluminum lug nut. But I'll bet they are out there, with good hardfacing technology. I just cannot figure out why anyone would need them. Certainly not for cosmetics. Or economics. Or strength.