Tips on sealing screws into outside paneling

3oaks wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

IMO that is the best and it's important to basically "entomb" the entire head of the screw or over time rust will work it's way around the head and down thru the screw threads causing a leak.

Larry

I've seen that happen before. That's why I use stainless steel hardware, not just shiny chrome plated carbon steel screws. Boating supply and accessory outlets are a very good source of all kinds of stainless steel hardware. More expensive but worth the extra cost.

I agree that SS screws are the best, but with the number of exterior screws a more cost effective alternative is something to consider. I guess the biggest point is the typical, fill the hole with "stuff" and then reinsert the screw is not going to give you the really long term reliability that a lot think.

These "wicking screws" along with the slow leaks that are almost guaranteed to develop in the four corners on most roofs due to the water ponding caused by the end cap roof seam and end side molding that runs up onto the roof are almost impossible to detect until the damage is so major.

Almost ALL CAULKING with the exception of some of the 3M Marine "Adhesives/sealants" are not designed as "PRIMARY" or "SUBMERSIBLE" capable and need to be used with those limitations understood. That is why Eternabond and 3M 4000UV series products are all I use on the exterior of my TT now.

Larry

SoundGuy wrote:
I mounted this mega size level to the front of our rig using an extreme mounting tape similar to this and the level hasn't moved in the slightest.



I personally wouldn't ever drill any holes in the side of the trailer unless it was absolutely necessary, such as for supporting awning brackets ... for me, an antenna just isn't important enough. That said, if you're going to do it anyway you'd want to screw into studs within the wall and make sure you seal the holes with non sag lap sealant such as ProFlex.

:) Hi, I'm with SoundGuy; I used two sided tape (3M gray or black) to install levels and other items on my trailer. Don't drill into your trailer especially for light weight items.

LarryJM wrote:

westend wrote:
If you have a small piece of Eternabond tape, it seals screws well--Video

IMO that is the best and it's important to basically "entomb" the entire head of the screw or over time rust will work it's way around the head and down thru the screw threads causing a leak.

Larry

When I put the solar panel mounting brackets on the trailer roof, I laid them over a length of Eternabond. I then screwed through the bracket holes, through the tape, through the aluminum skin, and into a rafter. The tape enclosed the screws just like shown in the video.

LarryJM wrote:

IMO that is the best and it's important to basically "entomb" the entire head of the screw or over time rust will work it's way around the head and down thru the screw threads causing a leak.

Larry

I've seen that happen before. That's why I use stainless steel hardware, not just shiny chrome plated carbon steel screws. Boating supply and accessory outlets are a very good source of all kinds of stainless steel hardware. More expensive but worth the extra cost.

westend wrote:
If you have a small piece of Eternabond tape, it seals screws well--Video

IMO that is the best and it's important to basically "entomb" the entire head of the screw or over time rust will work it's way around the head and down thru the screw threads causing a leak.

Larry

If you have a small piece of Eternabond tape, it seals screws well--Video

I mounted this mega size level to the front of our rig using an extreme mounting tape similar to this and the level hasn't moved in the slightest.



I personally wouldn't ever drill any holes in the side of the trailer unless it was absolutely necessary, such as for supporting awning brackets ... for me, an antenna just isn't important enough. That said, if you're going to do it anyway you'd want to screw into studs within the wall and make sure you seal the holes with non sag lap sealant such as ProFlex.

93Cobra2771 wrote:
Yes, you need to seal them. A non silicone based sealant would be best. Drill hole, shoot some in hole, and shoot some around screw prior to screwing it in. I like a little bit to squish out from around the screw, then I know I have plenty. Wipe off excess and you are good to go.

That is the same procedure I use too.

Yes, you need to seal them. A non silicone based sealant would be best. Drill hole, shoot some in hole, and shoot some around screw prior to screwing it in. I like a little bit to squish out from around the screw, then I know I have plenty. Wipe off excess and you are good to go.

I just used Goop to stick my levels on, no holes.
bumpy