Torklift Lower Stableloads

I had about 8000 lbs on my rear axle and had to use 80-90 psi in my bags to keep level yet keep my upper overload springs engaged. Adding the lower StableLoad wedges allowed me to run at 50 psi when loaded that heavy and 5 psi at 7000 lbs rear axle weight. Note: I was already running the upper StableLoad pads.

I do have airbags so that tip would probably work for me too. Plus I like the ability to be able to adjust the tension on the stableloads. I guess you could do that with the wedges too by sliding them on the lower spring. Hoping to lower the pressure on the airbags once I get stableloads.

Whether you have to jack the truck up depends on how many wedges you fit between the springs. I used all three on the front and back of my overload springs which made it pretty tight even when unloaded. If I aired my bags up to 100 psi, I could swing them out and then drop pressure again to 5 psi. If you don't have bags, you can put your jack under your receiver and lift the truck up slightly to swing out the wedges. If you have a trailer attached, cranking up the tongue jack will also relieve pressure (similar to what people do when installing or removing WDH spring bars on their trailer). If you use less wedges, the above extra steps are not needed.

Bedlam wrote:
The Torklift StableLoads swing in and out of place once installed - This what sold me on them. If I never ran the truck empty, I could have left the wood block wedges in place.

Do you have to jack up the truck to release pressure on the stableloads to switch them off?

The Torklift StableLoads swing in and out of place once installed - This what sold me on them. If I never ran the truck empty, I could have left the wood block wedges in place.

Thanks for the posts. The wedges look a little easier and cheaper to install than the torklift's.(have to drill on my truck)
But both probably are some work to disable/enable if you use the truck without the camper a lot.

I've seen other variations using metal hose clamps to do the same as the square u-bolts. Prior to buying lower StableLoads, I used pressure treated lumber with a lag screw through the predrilled hole in my spring. Once I knew it worked, I decided I wanted to be able to enable and disable them easily and bought the Torklift product. If you never plan to remove the camper, fixed blocks work well. If you drive your truck unloaded with the blocks or wedges engaged, the ride will be quite harsh.

Grit dog wrote:
They look healthy.
Maybe consider a no drill option. I didn’t want to drill my leafs for lower blocks.
Used some plastic felling wedges and square u bolts. Works great. Only fab work was to dado a shallow slot in the plastic wedges for the u bolt strap so it sit flush with the block.
They’ve been in for a couple years now, mostly unloaded driving. Only issue is on comes loose periodically. It rubs on my exhaust and I think the vibration causes it to slide out.

Great idea.. Any pics of your setup?

On my 2015 F350 SRW, I had to jack up the bumper to get the bolts in, and only 2 of the 3 wedges naturally fit in the jacked-down gap. Even with just 2 wedges, I've noticed a good positive difference.

--SiletzSpey

They look healthy.
Maybe consider a no drill option. I didn’t want to drill my leafs for lower blocks.
Used some plastic felling wedges and square u bolts. Works great. Only fab work was to dado a shallow slot in the plastic wedges for the u bolt strap so it sit flush with the block.
They’ve been in for a couple years now, mostly unloaded driving. Only issue is on comes loose periodically. It rubs on my exhaust and I think the vibration causes it to slide out.