Towing at Max

donn0128 wrote:
Personally I would not do it! Your passanger car does not have a real frame, so all the weight has to be handled by sheet metal. Towing at or near maximum can place a real strain on tow vehicles, your is not really designed to handle towing. You would be wise to buy a decent used 1/2 ton truck to use for towing. Heck, any decent used truck would be 10 times better than your car.

What donn0128 said !!!

You're not just close to max weight, you're gong to be over.

With 3343 dry weight, the trailer will easily reach 4000, when loaded for camping. That's considering you only load 660 lbs of stuff. The average is closer to 1000.

Your 3800 lb tow rating, allows for weight of a driver only. Any weight added by aftermarket accessories, passengers, or cargo, reduces your tow rating, pound for pound. The weight distributing hitch, by itself, will take away 100 lbs, from both your tow capacity and payload.

You're looking at towing a 4000+ lb trailer, with less than 3700 lb tow capacity. Most likely, you'll also be over on payload and GVWR.

Average tongue weight is 12.5 percent of loaded trailer weight. At 4000 lbs, the trailer will be pushing 500 lbs on the tongue.

Your hitch receiver, rated at 200 lbs, will be carrying that 100 lb WD hitch, plus the trailer's tongue weight. Weight distributing bars, do not relieve this weight. With a 200 lb rating, your receiver is most likely a Class II, which is not compatible with a weight distributing hitch.

There are also, some vehicles that are not recommended for use with WD hitches. Check the towing section of your owners manual, to see if your's is one of them. In addition to being over weight, you'll be asking your car to do things, it was not designed to do. Having the power to make the trailer move, is just a fraction of the towing process. Stopping and controlling the load are bigger parts.