Max Tow F150s

Numbers are the first step and very important step but that doesn't guarantee you will have a safe setup. I went from a Prime Time 5er 35 foot long weight in round 13,000 pounds loaded ready to camp. Pulled great even in 30 mile per hour side winds and didn't move even an inch when a Simi past. Traded it for Montana 3711FL that measured 42 foot long weigh in at around 14,500 ready to camp. Was pulling it with a 2015 Ford 1 Ton diesel. My Ford 1 Ton diesel was Super Cab with 157-inch wheelbase with 3744 payload rating and the Montana was 150 pounds under my GVWR and 800 pounds under my rear GAWR. So within all numbers and it gave me lots of white-knuckle moments in even 10 to 15 mile per hour side winds and a pass Simi would move the wag the dog. Tried sway bars, rearranging the contents of the 5er, increase air in tires and nothing work. I come to the conclusion that it was the length of the RV and the front living room floorplan with less forward of the axle weight and the short 157-inch wheelbase. Put in a friends DRW and even 35 miles per hour side winds didn't move it. Talk to a couple of people with just the SRW long bed and they didn't have any problems towing.. We traded Montana for Solitude 34 foot and got caught in I10 in 40 gusting 55 and didn't have to pull over.

I guess all the babble that being within specs is good by it doesn't tell the entire story. The length and Floor Plan can make a difference even when all the numbers are within range.

Edit My 2015 Ford 1-ton Diesel had hitch rating of 1250 pounds lower than your F150. My GMC 1-ton diesel had 1800 pounds rating.

womps wrote:
you should try both to make the correct decision!!

But we don't even know his wife. ;)

Fordlover wrote:

Lantley wrote:


Why not prove it to yourself.
Tow your trailer down a 4 mile 6% grade with your F-150.
Than do it with an F-350 SRW diesel?
Decide for yourself which one does the better job.

Of course, you know a prostitute might do 'it' better than a wife, but I'd rather the wife. Don't have to worry about catching the dreaded (insert horrible venereal disease). :W

But maybe like trucks, you should try both to make the correct decision!!

Lantley wrote:


Why not prove it to yourself.
Tow your trailer down a 4 mile 6% grade with your F-150.
Than do it with an F-350 SRW diesel?
Decide for yourself which one does the better job.

Of course, you know a prostitute might do 'it' better than a wife, but I'd rather the wife. Don't have to worry about catching the dreaded (insert horrible venereal disease). :W

troubledwaters wrote:

Lantley wrote:
Why not prove it to yourself.
Tow your trailer down a 4 mile 6% grade with your F-150.
Than do it with an F-350 SRW diesel?
Decide for yourself which one does the better job.

There you have it, got to have a F350 "diesel" (gasser won't do it) to tow a trailer
My truck has gear selector, rotors, and calipers. They are useful for going down a 6% grade.

Honestly a gasser could do it, but I want an exhaust brake too.

Blah blah blah. Can we just shut this effing thread down and stop the peeing contest already?

Maury82 wrote:

Lantley wrote:
You would start with your personal bias of having the largest truck, but that wasn't what I was seeking, nor asking, but instead, you would mislead me on what you want, what you like.

You are suppose to begin with answering my questions first, and completely, then offer alternatives, options and suggestions.

I don't need to hear how you think that you should have the biggest truck, but I want to hear about my truck towing my trailer.
Maury82 wrote:
If you are speculating and have no first hand knowledge, say you don't really know for sure, but how you can assume and speculate what you feel or think might happen.

Why lie and misguide people who are depending on your word just because they are vulnerable and gullible.

Why not prove it to yourself.
Tow your trailer down a 4 mile 6% grade with your F-150.
Than do it with an F-350 SRW diesel?
Decide for yourself which one does the better job.

I'm not concerned about which can do it better, but whethere my truck can do it safely.

A corvette stops better than most cars, but that doesn't mean other vehicles doesn't stop safely

If I came to you for advice on whether my truck can stop my trailer, you should answer that question without bias, and if you are not sure, say that you aren't and are speculating.

If I need additional stopping power while trying to keep my truck, there are low cost options in the form of better rotors and brake pads that not only stops better than factors, but are better at dissipating heat.

Most people already know about big trucks and their ability to tow what they have, but if everyone just went out and purchased F450 dually diesels, they wouldn't be asking for towing advice up here.

There isn't much skill needed in telling people to get a huge 1 ton, just like there isn't much skill needed if a dentist just pull teeth for everyone who walks in his office.

Why not put your years of towing experience on display by informing people whether stiffer trailer tires help with trailer sway, whether increasing brake controller gain help with braking, what about increasing brake capacity with better components, or reducing bounce with better shocks...that is dispaying your knowledge.

Buying a huge truck is a no brainer, and most people already know that is a default choice.

At this point I'm not sure you even know what your saying.
Your lack of understanding is apparrent
"whether increasing brake controller gain help with braking, what about increasing brake capacity with better components,".
Adjustments and components are no substitute for having the right truck:S
The right tires should be in place on either platform, the brake controller needs to be set correctly on either platform.
This is not about skill, we are not taking on an obstacle course. Or trying to set records. This is about selecting the correct tow vehicle. I am not relying solely on my skill to tow that RV trailer down the 6% grade.
I know that with the correct truck I can come down the grade effortlessly.
If someone comes to me wishing to tow a 10K GVW trailer on a regular basis without limits and they have a F150 Ego boost budget I'm not going to recommend an EGO boost F-150. I'm going to suggest a SRW diesel 1 ton. Even in its most basic version it will be very capable of doing the job

The 1 ton will tow the 10K trailer with ease and without limits.It will also give the buyer capacity for the future.
Tires, brake controllers,hitches, shocks and any gizmo you care to name are an entirely different subject.
I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel or develop some new technique for towing.
I'm simply pointing out the correct tool for the job.

You can break up concrete will a maul. You can use a large Macho drill. You can step up to an electric jack hammer and finally you can get a compressor driven air powered jack hammer.

All of these are viable methods,however you won't learn which tool to use from a brochure or by contacting the marketing department.
However when you actually have experience with the tools you begin to understand their purpose. Choosing the right to becomes a simple decision.
Choosing the right tool for the job is the key to success.
Knowing the right tool based on experience is invaluable.
Once you have found success with the right tool, you will not even attempt the job with the wrong tool....The End.

Maury82 wrote:

troubledwaters wrote:

demiles wrote:
...Should you care to do the math the F250 has a 15-20 mph higher point of critical speed than any F150 and including the hdpp of the same basic cab configuration.

WTFAYTA?

I don't know what that means, nor do I care.

If I came to you for advice, I'm seeking unbiased and knowledgeable input on my truck safely towing and handling my trailer at a reasonable 65 mph or below, not 90 mph.

Critical speed can be high or low, those that have sway problems are close to or at critical speed at normal highway speed limits. Since stability is dependent on characteristics of TV and trailer you won’t really know until you hitch up and try it. All you can do is try to shift the odds in your favor.
RV travel trailers in general have poor towing characteristics compared to other types of trailers. Boat/ trailer combos along with flat deck and cargo trailers when loaded properly will tow well with minimal tongue weight 10%. TT’s on the other hand usually have 75% + of its weight fixed by design so you can’t easily change what the manufacturer has done. High yaw inertia and poor axle placement is common. It’s very rare to find a TT that will tow well with 10% tongue weight, many require 13% or more and this automatically takes away from the TWR the manufacturer set.
Pay attention to the commercials and check brochures and notice what type of trailers the manufactures are using in advertising. You may find an Airstream but most show boats, flat decks, and cargo trailers.

troubledwaters wrote:

demiles wrote:
...Should you care to do the math the F250 has a 15-20 mph higher point of critical speed than any F150 and including the hdpp of the same basic cab configuration.

WTFAYTA?

What that means is that the extra weight of the PSD f250 will raise the speed at which sway will amplify instead of dampen out.

troubledwaters wrote:

demiles wrote:
...Should you care to do the math the F250 has a 15-20 mph higher point of critical speed than any F150 and including the hdpp of the same basic cab configuration.

WTFAYTA?

I don't know what that means, nor do I care.

If I came to you for advice, I'm seeking unbiased and knowledgeable input on my truck safely towing and handling my trailer at a reasonable 65 mph or below, not 90 mph.