Towing Capacity Question

kbucky wrote:

otrfun wrote:
The OP's biggest problem is verifying all his/her ratings/weights. A lot of assumptions being made (payload, tonque weight, dry weight, loaded weight, receiver hitch rating, RAWR, etc.). I may have missed it, but I don't believe the OP has one capacity, rating or weight that's actually been verified (verified = TV VIN related data and/or Cat Scale ticket). Even the dry weight of 5,900 lbs. quoted for the camper is suspect. I've seen these dry weight stickers be off as much as 1,000 lbs. Many dry weight quotes (especially brochures) are with *zero* options, no propane tanks, no batteries, etc.

With lighter TV's like the Durango, tongue weight is critical. Realworld, loaded tongue weight can easily be 50-75% more than the dry tongue weight rating specified on the typical manufacturer's brochure.

Prior to a visit to a Cat Scale, everyone's rig is riding on a long laundry list of assumptions. I can't tell you how many times I've seen someone's jaw drop (mine included) after taking their rig to the scales the first time. The best approach is to be extremely conservative. In the RV world, if you look anything remotely "close" on paper, you're probably over---possibly way over.

With all this being said, I commend the OP for starting this thread---and asking all the right questions. Hopefully this thread will prevent the OP from making some of the same mistakes that some of us here have made in the past.

My listed payload is 1200 lbs (although that appears conservative as my calculations would have it closer to 1500 lbs). The hitch weight of the camper we are now looking at is 450 lbs and myself and family would add another 500 lbs. So that would give me 250 lbs for the increase in hitch weight with a loaded camper. Still seems tight but better than the first option we were looking at.

You can accurately (and easily) determine the realworld payload of your Durango on your own. Visit a scale with your Durango empty (with driver on-board) and a full tank of fuel. Subtract that scale weight from the GVWR posted on the door jam of your Durango. The difference is the realworld payload you have available to use. This number trumps *any* number you may get from a brochure, the door jam payload sticker, and/or any VIN related data from the manufacturer. Reason being, dealer/owner installed accessories or modifications change the orginal manufacturer's payload rating. For instance, our neighbor's truck originally had a door jam payload rating of 4,150 lbs. Through the years he's installed in-bed 5r/gooseneck rails, air bags, sway-bar, step-bars, aftermarket front bumper, etc. His payload is now 3,675 lbs. (GVWR minus empty weight). The weight of those mods add-up.

otrfun wrote:
The OP's biggest problem is verifying all his/her ratings/weights. A lot of assumptions being made (payload, tonque weight, dry weight, loaded weight, receiver hitch rating, RAWR, etc.). I may have missed it, but I don't believe the OP has one capacity, rating or weight that's actually been verified (verified = TV VIN related data and/or Cat Scale ticket). Even the dry weight of 5,900 lbs. quoted for the camper is suspect. I've seen these dry weight stickers be off as much as 1,000 lbs. Many dry weight quotes (especially brochures) are with *zero* options, no propane tanks, no batteries, etc.

With lighter TV's like the Durango, tongue weight is critical. Realworld, loaded tongue weight can easily be 50-75% more than the dry tongue weight rating specified on the typical manufacturer's brochure.

Prior to a visit to a Cat Scale, everyone's rig is riding on a long laundry list of assumptions. I can't tell you how many times I've seen someone's jaw drop (mine included) after taking their rig to the scales the first time. The best approach is to be extremely conservative. In the RV world, if you look anything remotely "close" on paper, you're probably over---possibly way over.

With all this being said, I commend the OP for starting this thread---and asking all the right questions. Hopefully this thread will prevent the OP from making some of the same mistakes that some of us here have made in the past.

My listed payload is 1200 lbs (although that appears conservative as my calculations would have it closer to 1500 lbs). The hitch weight of the camper we are now looking at is 450 lbs and myself and family would add another 500 lbs. So that would give me 250 lbs for the increase in hitch weight with a loaded camper. Still seems tight but better than the first option we were looking at.

Ok, 90% of the replies here don’t even really understand what vehicle the OP actually has.
It has pluses and minuses for the application the OP is considering.
That vehicle will handle a 7000lb trailer pretty well and have power and brakes for days.
However that vehicle is NOT made to handle a 7000lb trailer per se.
Aside from taking a $60k hot rod suv and beating on it with a big trailer attached, most notably I believe you’ll tear up the rear Bilstein ADS suspension by bouncing a big trailer off the back of the rig. It’s a sports car suspension not a truck suspension.

That said, properly setup it should tow well. I’m just very skeptical about the application vs the type of suspension. Have owned 2 different SRT8s and understand their systems pretty well.

Be prepared for increased wear and tear if it works is my only advice.

JRscooby wrote:
Somebody mentioned options; I know we are not talking about vehicles in this class, but the point still stands.
The last year they where available a friend bought 2 LTL9000 Fords. Ordered the same axles, drivetrain and beds. Only difference, other than color was his driver wanted the extra padding, carpet, and seat covers so 1 had XL trim, and the other was XLT. I was in the scalehouse the first morning they brought the trucks to work. The fancy interior added over 1000 lbs of MT weight The cab of a 9000 is not much, if any, bigger than regular cab F150. If you want max payload/tow capacity you need base level interior.

Uhhh. Who cares?

The OP's biggest problem is verifying all his/her ratings/weights. A lot of assumptions being made (payload, tonque weight, dry weight, loaded weight, receiver hitch rating, RAWR, etc.). I may have missed it, but I don't believe the OP has one capacity, rating or weight that's actually been verified (verified = TV VIN related data and/or Cat Scale ticket). Even the dry weight of 5,900 lbs. quoted for the camper is suspect. I've seen these dry weight stickers be off as much as 1,000 lbs. Many dry weight quotes (especially brochures) are with *zero* options, no propane tanks, no batteries, etc.

With lighter TV's like the Durango, tongue weight is critical. Realworld, loaded tongue weight can easily be 50-75% more than the dry tongue weight rating specified on the typical manufacturer's brochure.

Prior to a visit to a Cat Scale, everyone's rig is riding on a long laundry list of assumptions. I can't tell you how many times I've seen someone's jaw drop (mine included) after taking their rig to the scales the first time. The best approach is to be extremely conservative. In the RV world, if you look anything remotely "close" on paper, you're probably over---possibly way over.

With all this being said, I commend the OP for starting this thread---and asking all the right questions. Hopefully this thread will prevent the OP from making some of the same mistakes that some of us here have made in the past.

packpe89 wrote:
What is the length?? I have found that as much a concern as the weight, especially if you plan on any long distances. Not sure I would want over 24' or so with a Durango.

We were looking at a bigger one but now we are looking at this one:
https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/travel-trailers/cruise-lite/261BHXL/734

It is 29" including the hitch. Its about 1500 lbs lighter than the first one we looked at

What is the length?? I have found that as much a concern as the weight, especially if you plan on any long distances. Not sure I would want over 24' or so with a Durango.

naturist wrote:
It seems very few run up against max tow weight before running out of payload. You are not alone there. BTW, don’t forget to add the weight of a full tank of fuel to the weight of passengers, etc. At 7.2-7.4 lbs per gallon, a 20 gallon tank is going to add around 150 lbs to the mix.

Curb weight already accounts for full fluids, including fuel. It does not need to be subtracted from payload.

It is not likely that your actual payload is 1,200 lbs exactly. That seems a rounded off number. To do it right, you need to weigh your vehicle full of fuel, passengers, and gear. That total weight subtracted from your GVWR will ensure actual payload.

You should also get separate axle weights. It appears you have a 3,900 RAWR. Most of the tongue wt will be added to the rear axle. If your rear axle, ready to camp wt is 2,900, you can add up to 1K of hitch wt.

Your tires should handle a bit more than RAWR, but look at max tire rating, and also max inflation on sidewall. You will want to inflate tires to more than indicated on door sticker, the rears possibly to max pressure.

Jerry

Huntindog wrote:

kbucky wrote:
That is the weight listed in the SRT owners manual

Welcome to the world of options.
For very pound of options, the payload is reduced by a pound.
What is in the manual is for a base truck.
What is on the sticker is for your truck as optioned.

The sticker does not list the weight. It only gives the standard 1,200 payload number which is shown no matter what options to you add or remove