Nvr2loud wrote:
Lynnmor wrote:
You really want to keep the factory controller. It will perform much better than after-market units.
I don't necessarily disagree... but why do you feel that way?
I'm only thinking about other complicated electronics that car manufacturers attempt to make and aftermarket is typically far superior (Radios, GPS, Alarms, Auto-starts, heated washer fluid, heated seats... the list goes on and on)
I have often found that an aftermarket manufacturer specializes in a very specific technology and that OEM typically does not have the experience to get it right.
While I personally do not "like" all of todays "integration" I would have to FULLY AGREE with FINDING OUT the problem and using the IBC instead of merely bypassing it with a LESSER aftermarket controller.
The reason for my feelings is you simply can not get a aftermarket INERTIA type controller to work as well as the IBC, IT IS THAT GOOD.
I can't say about GMs since I have a Ford, but let me tell you my 2013 F250 with IBC works exactly like my older Jordan Ultima 2020 controllers. The IBC however unlike aftermarket controllers also are DESIGNED to work with the vehicles ABS AND trailer stability control systems.
Over all I am pleased with my IBC.
Now on to the trouble shooting.. IBCs (especially when they first came out) are very sensitive to WIRING PROBLEMS, aftermarket controllers ARE NOT. Before you say that being "sensitive" to wiring problems is bad thing.. I would rather KNOW NOW that there is a problem BEFORE I go a towing...
The IBC actually shoots a pulse out to the brake wire, it monitors the for RETURN pulse, if the return pulse is too weak or mis shaped the controller will determine that it does not have a trailer with brakes connected and it will not indicate that the trailer is connected.
Bad wiring on the trailer can weaken, delay or mis shape the return pulse.
A bad magnet can also affect the return pulse (electromagnets act like a transformer to a certain extent, the pulse builds the magnetic field when the pulse stops the field collapses and when that happens a reverse voltage spike is created which is what the IBC is looking for).
The problem most likely is the TRAILER wiring, trailer manufacturers tend to cheap out on the wire size, they often will splice multiple short pieces of wire together, NONE of the splices are using weather resistant connections. In a nutshell GARBAGE and the IBC controllers WILL see a problem.
I would start by taking the tires off, rework ALL the connections at the wheels. If the wires are run inside the axle tubes, SCRAP those wires and run NEW wires on the OUTSIDE of the axle tubes. This IS a known issue where the wires inside the tube move around and chafe the insulation causing intermittent shorts.
At the same time I would highly recommend scrapping and replacing all the brake wiring from front to back, most manufacturers use 14 ga wire which is borderline for the distance and current draw. Use at a minimum of 10 ga stranded wire (I used TWO PAIRS of 10 ga wire on mine).
Make sure that the wires are not grounded at the axles, the ground wires for ALL brake magnets MUST go up to the tongue and be grounded at the frame and the ground wire from the tow vehicle.
