Olsy wrote:
numberseven wrote:
1st the GM controller works great!!! but it is to sensitive and you need to install two electric brake magnets on the truck or trailer frame and hook them into the circut all the time, Just put one on each side of the frame and put a bolt through them and wire them in.
This will give it more LOAD and will work fine.
2nd You need to open the fuse box under the hood and make sure the large wire is hooked up and fuse installed, there is also one for the battery charge line.
If you follow this you will be very happy with the new unit, for further info log into "thedieselplace.com" and you can read all about it
This is what i was referring to in previous post at the beginning....these magnets you speak of, are they simply the same magnet i would find in my brake housing? If so how would you go about installing them? In parallel with each individual break or could i put to at the beginning or end the circuit? How would i physically install them? In some sort of an enclosure?
Do you have a link to good write up for this?
Thanks again!
:h
That is the hoakiest thing I have ever heard of not to mention not the smartest either.
Even GMs controller SHOULD be able to FUNCTION with only one AXLE to at least 3 axles (TWO brake magnets to SIX brake magnets) like Ford's IBC does.
Adding two magnets is simply FOOLING the IBC into working even though the WIRING is suspect.
So what do you do in the case that the OP has two different trailers, one with one axle and one with two axles?
If you simply add a pair of magnets to the tow vehicle then the IBC will be active all the time plus that defeats another safety which detects and TELLS you that your TRAILER BRAKES are disconnected...
Adding an extra set of magnets to the trailer will cover up the bad or poor wiring connections leaving you with possible WEAK trailer brakes.
Olsy, honestly, for your best interest rework the wiring on the trailer. When Ford first offered IBC MANY people had the same issue, FIXING the shoddy wiring in 99.9% of the time FIXED the problem.
Another thing to do is take your trailer to your GM dealer and have them hook up a new truck off the lot. See if the new vehicle detects YOUR trailer.
Someone else had also posted an answer about your question of the magnet pigtails. They are correct, you do not need to change the pigtails that stick out of the back of the brakes. Those wires come directly from the magnets. I would however encourage you to pull the drums and inspect the wires inside the drums for chafing and or breakage while you are working on it.
There are some easy checks you can do if you have a DC ammeter, you can check the current draw by the magnets. Each magnet should draw no more than 3A at 12V so two axles gives you four magnets for a total of 12A at 12V.
In this case you can use your break away switch (pull break way pin to activate) to apply full battery voltage to the magnets (don't need the truck connected but you do need a fully charged battery on the trailer connected to the trailer). Good connections and wiring should get you very close to 12A at 12V. If you see 11A or less then there is a wiring issue or even magnets not connected. Make sure when done testing to put break away pin fully back into the switch (should solidly click back in).
It is always a good idea to check break away switch every time you hitch up. I simply will pull the pin with trailer pigtail not connected and pull forward a couple of feet. This should lock all trailer wheels. Put pin back in and move again a couple feet and wheels now should turn free.
