Trailer hitch pin

Kip :: In the English system, we use pounds to describe weight and feet or inches to describe distance. You may remember that 2000 pounds is called a "ton", but did you know that 1000 pounds is called a "kip"? (It was most likely shortened from "Kilo-Pound") So, when you see a notation like "kpf", think "kips per foot". 0.48 kpf would be equal to 480 pounds per foot. Engineers use kips since it makes the numbers much easier to work with (especially in the days of slide rules) and reduces errors caused by lost zeros.

Grit dog wrote:
about 18-19kips.

What is a "kips"?

Old-Biscuit wrote:


I check tire/hub/rotor temps with Infrared Temp Gun when I stop....walk around and do a visual then run to the bathroom

upon return I check hookup/connections and just a general look over

Takes but a few minutes and is worth the 'p''p' dance :B

LOL! My bladder is larger than DW's or dog's. We stop, she does the dash while dog and I walk around the vehicle, then to the closest grass. If it is a fuel stop, when spouse gets back, I pull up to pump then go inside. If not fueling wife will stay with truck and dog, maybe fix snacks on tailgate. I don't worry much about tampering, but will look at the paint dots on most of the critical nuts and bolts.
As for the temp gun, might be better, but took my temp gun 1 trip. Put it down to pick up poop. Had to buy new one. I have used my hand with success on much bigger stuff for over half century. If not broke, don't fix it.

I put a zip tie on my clevis pin for piece of mind. At least it keeps clowns from pulling it off, it has to be cut first so creates a simple deterrent and should never jiggle off on its own.
I'm a lock but practically every single thing that can be locked is. I have to travel with 2 ball mounts for the boat one on a stinger with a 2" drop for when the TC is loaded and one with a 6" drop when no camper. Well I had a locking hitch pin on the stinger freeze up. Which is ok since I shouldn't have to ever remove it, the ball ain't coming off either. I had same pin in other receiver at truck. Quit using it out of fear of it corroding shut. Yeah I don't want a locking pin stuck on the truck!

JRscooby wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Also why everyone should check/recheck there equipment ANYtime you get ready to GO.
Prior to leaving CG
Before leaving Rest Area
After stopping at a restaurant
ANYTIME you have been away from your rig

I do a walk away everytime. Habit!

Yes, before you leave. But I like to check every thing just as soon as I stop. Touch each tire and hub for heat. Earlier I find the problem the better.

As for the pin. When you think about the TW forcing the ball mount off-center of the hole, it would take a lot of force to pull the mount out even without the pin.

I check tire/hub/rotor temps with Infrared Temp Gun when I stop....walk around and do a visual then run to the bathroom

upon return I check hookup/connections and just a general look over

Takes but a few minutes and is worth the 'p''p' dance :B

^ What he said.

And not that it matters, but the shear on a 5/8" pin is nowhere near what gde is saying. It's about 18kips, single shear. So about 36kips minimum in double shear. That's why you see hitch pins bend when not in true shear (like with an adapter sleeve), but you'll virtually never see them begin to shear, but you will see the much softer steel the hitch is made of, egg out the holes. Softer = more malleable.

And yes the etrailer answer guy is wrong. lol

Trackrig wrote:
When you insert a hitch into the receiver, you secure it with the hitch pin. Considering receivers and and balls are rated for different weights, has anyone ever seen a rating on a hitch pin?

I can't answer your question, but I can tell you the hitch pin is in "double shear". This is absolute the strongest type of connection that can be made. More than double "single shear".

I saw a guy pull his boat to the lake once without having any pin in there at all !! He says "That thing is so rusty it will never come out." I crawled under his truck and stuck a 1/2 inch bolt in it just to feel safer.

“As far as strength of the hitch pin goes, don't know exactly,..”

eTrailer’s $18 locking hitch pin is rated...15k. Plenty for most trailerites. Stop all thieves? No but better than nothing.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Lock/etrailer/e98881.html

Lynnmor wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

As far as strength of the hitch pin goes, don't know exactly, but the same diameter pin is used for 2x2 and 2.5x2.5 hitches.. Just the length of the pin is longer for the 2.5 hitches.. Can't say for sure on the 3x3 hitches but I suspect most likely the same diameter to allow compatibility for using an smaller hitch accessory like a bike rack or lighter weight hitch via adapter sleeves.

Nope, the 3" uses a 3/4" pin. I think that most are using a 5/8" and that is unsafe. Those using adapters would need to drill the holes larger on the adapter and the shank, do you think that ever happens?

Like I said, I wasn't sure on 3" hitches, I personally have 2.5"x2.5" hitches and the hitch pins ARE the same diameter as 2x2 hitches I used to have. The only difference between 2" and 2.5" hitch pins are length..

Need a longer pin for 2.5" hitches..

If 3" hitch uses 3/4" pin then one could use a 5/8" diameter pin provided it is long enough and even though it would be a sloppy fit so yes, one could use a bike rack designed for a smaller hitch..

Not saying it is a good idea, I personally didn't care for the slack with 2" to 2.5" sleeves so I upgraded my hitch shank and even the upgraded hitch shack had too much slop so I welded beads around the shank to get rid of the slop.. Not many people would be willing to weld and grind the hitch shank to fit properly.

But back to the subject, I try to check to make sure no one has tampered with my hitch from the pin to the hitch head, chains and even tether cable when ever I stop and leave the vehicle out of sight.. Just makes me feel good that all is the same as I left it.

Pin for 2" and 2.5" hitches are sturdy enough for the loads they get, basically they are in a "Shear" type of use, takes a lot of pressure to shear cut off 5/8" bolt but keep in mind you have to shear off TWO SIDES at the same time.. Basically the same as shearing 1.25" diameter bolt..

According to HERE A 5/8" hitch pin should be close to grade 8 bolt specs.. Which would have 150,000 lb Tensile strength.. Shear mode is typically 60% of Tensile strength..

So, 5/8" hitch pin should be good for around 90,000 lbs..

But wait, there is more, that pin HAS to shear off in TWO points of contact at the same time in order to lose a hitch so now we are looking at 180,000 lbs!

That is 90 TONS of shearing pressure required..

I suspect the hitch components will fail before the pin..

Also don't assume since you may have a locking pin that it WILL stay locked either..