Trailer Jack

myredracer wrote:
We have a Torin double ram bottle jack that extends from 5 1/4" to 14" and fits under an axle even with a flat. It's compact and stored away under the bed.

Umm.. no. Not in my case.

Wished it wasn't so cold and snowy or I would take a photo.

Mine has drop axles, the axle tubes are much lower than the hubs putting the outside of the rim about 2" lower than the axle tubes when the tire is flat.

Even with the tires fully inflated, that jack would be a bit too high and I have to put it offset under the spring towards the spring mounts.

So, not everyone can get away with even a shorty bottle jack.

Which is why I mentioned low profile trolley jacks or even scissor jacks.

At home, I use a big floor jack under the trailer frame because of the drop axles, just makes the job easier.

Personally, you simply need to practice jacking to figure out what works and what doesn't. What works for one person may not work for another.

Sometimes like in my case, TWO jacks comes in handy, one taller bottle jack for jacking under the frame and a shorter bottle jack or even a scissor jack for under low clearance items like in my case..

My plan is to use the tall bottle jack under the frame to lift the axle high enough to get the short bottle jack under the axle.

Fortunately, I have not needed to try my plan.

Also, must be aware of how your trailer is setting, if you pull off on the berm, one side of the trailer will be heavily leaning.. This can create a dangerous position and trailers are darn heavy.. Jacking the high side with a heavy lean to the low side can be dangerous..

Same goes for having to jack the low side, extra weight will be shifted via COG (Center of Gravity) which can overload your jack..

I use a screw jack I found at a thrift shop, I think it came from a Dodge pick-up. I shaped a long steel shaft so that one end fits into my 19.2 drill motor, and the other into the rectangle shaped receptical at the bottom of the jack. So the drill will raise the jack really fast and has enough power to lift the TT or Suburban off of the ground. It's also fairly short so it does fit under the axel. Also a lot lighter than the bottle jack.

We have a Torin double ram bottle jack that extends from 5 1/4" to 14" and fits under an axle even with a flat. It's compact and stored away under the bed.

Agree, lifting one wheel doesn't always do the job so I put a bottle jack on the frame by the other wheel. It only takes a little bottle jack to finally lift the wheel.

By doing it this way the lift blocks do about 90% of the lifting and the Jack only does about 10% of the lifting. To me it's much more stable/safer.

Blocks of wood or plastic work well. Bottle jacks are a hassle.

I use the screw jack that came with my F250 placed under a spring perch U bolt. Luckily I haven't had to use it beside the road but I'm well versed if/when the time comes.

i just use some boards and the scissors jack from my truck. Works great. At home I just use a hydraulic jack. As someone said, test your options at home first in a safe setting to make sure they are feasible.

#2 on the Andersen rapid jack.

Experiment at home before trying to figure it out while in traffic.

I use a bottle jack under the frame behind the rear shackle. I can lift both tires on one side with the jack at that position. Since the frame is uneven at that point, I cut a 6" piece of steel angle to go between the frame and jack.

I cannot put a jack under the spring perch, it is too close to ground. Keep in mind when experimenting, with a flat everything will be even closer to the ground.

I have spread axles and the same problem. I use a bottle jack between the U bolts. Quick and easy.