Trailer leaning to the one side?

I would take it to a spring shop and have them adjust (by adding a leaf) the heavier side. Or just ask them what to do and install it yourself!
If you put new springs in both sides, it will still sit lower on the heavy side but will sit higher overall.

First thing to do would be to go to a scale and get side to side weights and then decide from there. I'd also check to see what the load capacity rating of the tires is and how much reserve capacity there is. I've seen TTs that have tires and axles loaded to their max. rating before taking side to side weights into account. Do you notice much bounce in the rear of the TT. We have a TT with stronger than stock/OEM springs, axles, frame and tires and it is a great improvement and bounce is substantially reduced.

I upgraded tries one load size and WNET with Carlisle HD so I should be good there. Don't notice allot of bounce, but it's my first camper.

How do I get side to side weights at the scale?

My thoughts:

No you are not being "anal"
In my estimation that should have been covered under you extended warrantee.

It definitely is a safety hazard.
Your tires on that side have more weight on them and they will wear out sooner.
Your trailer will want to pull to that side. - Not good !

I wouldn't want to be towing that trailer any distance

jack L

Mine leans a little with the kitchen and bedroom slides out on the left side, I just put boards under the wheels to level it out.

My motorhome used to do that also with the full-wall slide; leveling fixed that too.

I do level it when setting up, but my concern was when trailering it when it's not level. I guess I have with no ill effects since it was new 2 years ago. Didn't notice it leaning until about 1 year ago. Also wonder if it's that much heavier on the one side if those springs are over capacity.

Just a thought, but you might be able to get slightly longer or shorter (not sure of your configuration) spring hangers for the low side

or look into a shim between axle and spring on low side?

As many folks mentioned above, I too would hit the scales and "scale weight" your average loaded trailer - as if going on a normal trip. I'd also scale weight from side to side - to ensure onboard items is properly balanced (inside the TT) as well.

With scale weight numbers, I would also compare to RV's GVWR number. This is the max lbs (trailer and onboard cargo) the TT is rated for. If one cannot find this number on the VIN tag, google search can often find / confirm this critical number as well.

If "scale weight" is under GVWR's number, it means the trailer is NOT over loaded - which is a great thing. If overloaded, then reduce onboard cargo weight to get trailer's weight under GVWR's number. This is the 1st step.

If trailer is still leaning (and being under GVWR's number), I would then compare "side by side" scale weight numbers against the existing leaf spring pack rating numbers. If needed, re-load internal items to be better balanced (to improve side by side numbers)..

Unknown to many folks, RV factories /5 or -13% (average tongue weight) to calculate minimum leaf spring pack size. Legal but not good in the real world. If it were my trailer, I would then replace leaf spring packs with +1 size higher (rounded up). For example... Let's say GVWR's number is 9,995 lbs, I would take 9,995/4 = 2,500. I would then install +1 size up 2,600 lbs leaf spring packs. (or, next available higher size). Going +1 size up doesn't mean one can load above RV's GVWR number. It means one is adding more load buffer - when one doesn't properly balance internal cargo storage. Or, when going across double railways tracks too fast.

If wondering, all my trailers (boat, utility, RV) have +1 higher leaf spring packs (after "scale weight" tasks for proper loading). Never had problems afterwards....

I love the shim idea. I have my weight loaded and I'm within GVWR, and I'm right at 13% tongue weight.

How would I measure my side to side weights?