I've been an RVer since the mid-70's, progressing through a few pop-ups, a 26ft trailer, a 30ft 5vr, and now, a 40ft 'destination' trailer.We love the new unit, but are still dealing with trailer 'shimmy'; the entire unit shakes when parked when someone is moving anywhere the unit."Scotty" sent me drawings of a fix he discovered, comprised of a frame, with articulating legs at each end of the frame. The stabilizer frame was placed against the RV structure, and the legs rotated to the ground; the legs were connected to each other by a tightening strap.This set-up worked pretty well on the 5vr.Our current unit is parked on a sloping site next to a pond. It has six scissor jacks and the hitch leg for stability, but it doesn't stop the shimmy. There is almost a four-foot drop from the bottom of the RV to the ground at the aft end, where the stabilizer should go. Cinder blocks and wood 4x4s didn't work to shore up the new aluminum stabilizer, purchased from Camping World and manufactured by Valterra, which is identical in design to Scotty's design.Can anyone offer any solutions to my dilemma?

You have cinder blocks and wood stacked 4 feet high? Need a photo, I think that may be a problem.

I experience it...haven't done anything about it, but I have read through here that the "X-Chocks" (not sure if I got the name right) seems to work pretty well and are easy to put on and fairly inexpensive...

How do you have your trailer tires chocked? A good job of chocking the tires goes a long way to take the movement out of the trailer when folks are moving inside. When you are set up, the trailer is still resting on the tires and they move when people inside move. Firm them up with a good heavy chock.

Look in Do It Yourself Modifications and search for "chocks".

2Macs wrote:Look in Do It Yourself Modifications and search for "chocks".Is that safe or legal? Sorry I had to...

Trailer "shimmy" in campgrounds | Good Sam Community

Passin_Thru
Explorer
Sep 30, 2014
They make screw jacks for sliders, try them from CW or try the tripods for the hitch on a 5er.
rustymusket
Explorer
Sep 30, 2014
Gentlemen!
Please! I did not want this request for help to turn into a 'spraying contest'!

I may not have mentioned this in so many words, but when I said my coach is classified as a 'destination trailer', I thought that would convey the concept that we use our Forest River Cottage as a 'cottage'.

The last time it was moved was when it was delivered to our seasonal lakeside campsite two years ago, and probably won't be moved again until we trade it in for a newer model.

The only reason I didn't pull the tires and mount the coach on a concrete and mortar foundation is that we rent the site and management won't allow it!

To date, Larry's recommendations are the best I've heard, and I plan to begin with short lengths (18 inches) of 6x6 seasoned wood for a base on the gravel on which I will mount the Camco stands on both sides of the coach just aft of the axles.
I have also purchased a 6 ton bottle jack for raising the coach prior to adjusting the jack stands in place.
I will also readjust the six scissor jacks in similar fashion with the bottle jack and keep my fingers crossed!

Come Spring, 2015, we re-evaluate the stability of the coach, and if still 'doing it's jig', we'll retract the scissors jacks and replace with the remaining Camco stands spaced 10 feet apart on both sides of the coach.
Thank you all for your contributions, but please keep them coming!

hank
(rustymusket)
RinconVTR
Explorer
Sep 30, 2014
LarryJM wrote:

... the system I have described takes care of all the issue with A SINGLE METHOD.

The OP has a 40' unit and while he might have called it "shimmy" anyone that understands this issue would have realized like I did that it takes more than just shoring up the support system only at the corners to solve the problem.

In fact I'm confused why we are even talking about a 25' unit ... NOW IMO THERE IS AN APPLES AND ORANGES ISSUE.

Larryu

The more you post, the more its clear you just don't understand what's really happening.

Those screw jacks you swear by actually are not the worst idea for permanent set ups like this 40' trailer might be, but they are not at all practical for anyone who is "mobile".

You should think about why those jacks are effective in some cases. Look at their base, the shape, the structure, allowable movement.

So yeah, if you are set up as a seasonal, the concepts I posted are more expensive than the multiple screw jacks.

My concepts are for the true travel trailers, not park units. But that doesn't make them any less effective. Not in the slightest.
LarryJM
Explorer II
Sep 29, 2014
RinconVTR wrote:
LarryJM wrote:

Since you have basically done nothing to neutralize or eliminate either the suspension "bounce/movement" nor have reduced the frame span length I wouldn't consider shoring up only the far corner supports of a trailer a good solution. I'm surprised at your statement about it taking care of 100% of the issue since many other posts indicate a different experience and only the addition of some extra supports near the axles has the situation been improved to where it becomes satisfactory.

Now it's only my opinion, but spending $80 or more to only shore up the corner supports on a trailer is not very cost effective nor IMO a good solution for this "shimmy" issue especially with longer (over 28' or so) trailers. You might have gotten for your liking decent results, but I contend that is only because your trailer is so much shorter than a lot here and where this issue really becomes noticeable. One needs to both reduce the unsupported (or better stated properly supported) frame span lengths and to reduce or eliminate the tire/suspension bounce and that can only be accomplished by adding supports and getting some much closer to the axles.

In any event what you have shown I don't think would work much at all to help something like the 40' unit that the OP is trying to stabilize ... that's just too long.

Larry

You are comparing apples to oranges.

Frame flex and bounce is not the same as "shimmy".

Bounce or frame flex = up/down movement. (jump up and down in the trailer))

Shimmy = side to side, front to back, lateral "rotation". (push sideways on any corner of the camper)

Having only a 25' trailer, bracing the stabilizers from moving is for "shimmy" is all I needed.

If you have frame flex "bounce" when all stabilizers are down, then you need another "stabilizer" (call it a vertical stabilizer) in the middle of the frame, near or just in front of the axles.

These are real simple fixes, but you have first have to determine which movement you need to eliminate. It could be either, or both but its critical to understand one method wont fix both conditions.

You have a right to your opinion, but I simply disagree with your assessment and I don't care if it's "shimmy, bounce, movement up down or sideways, slippage, stretching, contracting, whatever" ... the system I have described takes care of all the issue with A SINGLE METHOD.

The OP has a 40' unit and while he might have called it "shimmy" anyone that understands this issue would have realized like I did that it takes more than just shoring up the support system only at the corners to solve the problem.

In fact I'm confused why we are even talking about a 25' unit ... NOW IMO THERE IS AN APPLES AND ORANGES ISSUE.

Larryu
RinconVTR
Explorer
Sep 29, 2014
LarryJM wrote:

Since you have basically done nothing to neutralize or eliminate either the suspension "bounce/movement" nor have reduced the frame span length I wouldn't consider shoring up only the far corner supports of a trailer a good solution. I'm surprised at your statement about it taking care of 100% of the issue since many other posts indicate a different experience and only the addition of some extra supports near the axles has the situation been improved to where it becomes satisfactory.

Now it's only my opinion, but spending $80 or more to only shore up the corner supports on a trailer is not very cost effective nor IMO a good solution for this "shimmy" issue especially with longer (over 28' or so) trailers. You might have gotten for your liking decent results, but I contend that is only because your trailer is so much shorter than a lot here and where this issue really becomes noticeable. One needs to both reduce the unsupported (or better stated properly supported) frame span lengths and to reduce or eliminate the tire/suspension bounce and that can only be accomplished by adding supports and getting some much closer to the axles.

In any event what you have shown I don't think would work much at all to help something like the 40' unit that the OP is trying to stabilize ... that's just too long.

Larry

You are comparing apples to oranges.

Frame flex and bounce is not the same as "shimmy".

Bounce or frame flex = up/down movement. (jump up and down in the trailer))

Shimmy = side to side, front to back, lateral "rotation". (push sideways on any corner of the camper)

Having only a 25' trailer, bracing the stabilizers from moving is for "shimmy" is all I needed.

If you have frame flex "bounce" when all stabilizers are down, then you need another "stabilizer" (call it a vertical stabilizer) in the middle of the frame, near or just in front of the axles.

These are real simple fixes, but you have first have to determine which movement you need to eliminate. It could be either, or both but its critical to understand one method wont fix both conditions.
LarryJM
Explorer II
Sep 29, 2014
RinconVTR wrote:
I have a 25ft trailer and tried a number of different jacks made by Bal and also their X-chocks. The X-chocks help, but their other product..."locking arms" eliminate the issue entirely. Depending on the orientation of your front and rear jacks, you could need as few as two arms (one set), one set per end, or 1 set per corner.

Reading about your set up, you could likely require 1 set (2 locking arms) at each corner. They are around $80 per set. But if you really want to stop the shimmy, these will do it 100%.

http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consumer/stabilizing_products/lockarm.shtml

Here's what mine look like;

Since you have basically done nothing to neutralize or eliminate either the suspension "bounce/movement" nor have reduced the frame span length I wouldn't consider shoring up only the far corner supports of a trailer a good solution. I'm surprised at your statement about it taking care of 100% of the issue since many other posts indicate a different experience and only the addition of some extra supports near the axles has the situation been improved to where it becomes satisfactory.

Now it's only my opinion, but spending $80 or more to only shore up the corner supports on a trailer is not very cost effective nor IMO a good solution for this "shimmy" issue especially with longer (over 28' or so) trailers. You might have gotten for your liking decent results, but I contend that is only because your trailer is so much shorter than a lot here and where this issue really becomes noticeable. One needs to both reduce the unsupported (or better stated properly supported) frame span lengths and to reduce or eliminate the tire/suspension bounce and that can only be accomplished by adding supports and getting some much closer to the axles.

In any event what you have shown I don't think would work much at all to help something like the 40' unit that the OP is trying to stabilize ... that's just too long.

Larry
RinconVTR
Explorer
Sep 29, 2014
I have a 25ft trailer and tried a number of different jacks made by Bal and also their X-chocks. The X-chocks help, but their other product..."locking arms" eliminate the issue entirely. Depending on the orientation of your front and rear jacks, you could need as few as two arms (one set), one set per end, or 1 set per corner.

Reading about your set up, you could likely require 1 set (2 locking arms) at each corner. They are around $80 per set. But if you really want to stop the shimmy, these will do it 100%.

http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consumer/stabilizing_products/lockarm.shtml

Here's what mine look like;
Huntindog
Explorer
Sep 29, 2014
rustymusket wrote:
Huntindog:
I'm not clear where you got your information on the Camco aluminum stand capacities, but I verified the information on the Camco website where they also state these stands WILL support up to 6,000 lbs, or are you suggesting the four stands contained in the box will collectively, but not individually, support up to 6,000 lbs?
This number is of no consequence, as the coach is supported by six scissor jacks, the four tires, and a hitch stand, and I will be initially adding only two Camco stands just aft of the axles to see if LarryJM's suggestion works. Based on the previously-mentioned existing tires, jacks, and stands, each Camco stand will only be supporting approximately 1,000 lbs.
I will be ordering a total of eight Camco aluminum stands, and if my initial attempt to stabilize the coach with two Camco stands behind the axles fail, I will be retracting the six factory-mounted scissor jacks and using the other six Camco stands in their place, but spacing them ten feet apart on both sides of the coach, also as recommended by LarryJM.
I understand your concern, and if you have proof of your claim, I'd suggest you contact the manufacturer.
Otherwise, do you have an alternate suggestion to solve my RV problem?
I have owned those Camco jacks in the past.

Let met just put it like this... When I jack up the front of my diesel to do a oil/lube job.... I wouldn't crawl under it, if it was supported by a pair of them.

I use these:
Real 6000# Jack stands

And yes, I am a archery hunter.. So I DO shoot arrows.. And I hit my targets.:B

But on a more serious note. I am the safety officer at my work. So when I see something written like this, that is obviously not true. I must point it out. Lest someone believe it to be true, and suffer the consequences when they find out otherwise.

Those cheap Camco jacks will work fine, at their rating. for their intended purpose. That of stabilization.

As for just what the rating is, I would contact Camco.
Since they are sold in sets of four, it would make sense that the rating is 1500# per jack. The auto jack stands I linked to are sold in pairs, and rated at 6 tons for the pair, or 6000# each.

Be safe out there.
LarryJM
Explorer II
Sep 29, 2014
rustymusket wrote:
Huntindog:
I'm not clear where you got your information on the Camco aluminum stand capacities, but I verified the information on the Camco website where they also state these stands WILL support up to 6,000 lbs, or are you suggesting the four stands contained in the box will collectively, but not individually, support up to 6,000 lbs?
This number is of no consequence, as the coach is supported by six scissor jacks, the four tires, and a hitch stand, and I will be initially adding only two Camco stands just aft of the axles to see if LarryJM's suggestion works. Based on the previously-mentioned existing tires, jacks, and stands, each Camco stand will only be supporting approximately 1,000 lbs.
I will be ordering a total of eight Camco aluminum stands, and if my initial attempt to stabilize the coach with two Camco stands behind the axles fail, I will be retracting the six factory-mounted scissor jacks and using the other six Camco stands in their place, but spacing them ten feet apart on both sides of the coach, also as recommended by LarryJM.
I understand your concern, and if you have proof of your claim, I'd suggest you contact the manufacturer.
Otherwise, do you have an alternate suggestion to solve my RV problem?

I wouldn't worry about Huntindog's arm chair engineering remarks ... a lot of folks here like to ignore the basic question and just shoot arrows into the air and see if they hit anything.

Back to your issue, IMO again getting the correct amount of support under each support area (i.e. Jackstand) is critical since what you want to do is to remove the tires and suspension from the equation and at the same time getting the proper support for the frame. I use 4 of those alum. screw jack stands only to stabilize my 31' trailer and can get it basically rock solid. I say basically since I have a rear bedroom model and found for our use I didn't need any support closer than about 8' from the end of the trailer. However, I i stand in the very back and jump up and down I can get quite a bit of movement, but that is not how we use our trailer so it's a non issue for us.

Anyway once you get ready let me know and I think I might be able to give you some hints on how to set these "jackstands". You CANNOT simply use the screw on them to get the necessary support and this is why I recommend using something like a bottle jack to set the multiple sets you are going to use. If you were only using 4 then you could simply use the tongue jack to set them, but that won't work for any of them inbetween jackstands that have already been set.

Good Luck and please keep us advised here on your findings in this endeavour since we might all learn something from your experiences.

Larry
rustymusket
Explorer
Sep 29, 2014
Huntindog:
I'm not clear where you got your information on the Camco aluminum stand capacities, but I verified the information on the Camco website where they also state these stands WILL support up to 6,000 lbs, or are you suggesting the four stands contained in the box will collectively, but not individually, support up to 6,000 lbs?
This number is of no consequence, as the coach is supported by six scissor jacks, the four tires, and a hitch stand, and I will be initially adding only two Camco stands just aft of the axles to see if LarryJM's suggestion works. Based on the previously-mentioned existing tires, jacks, and stands, each Camco stand will only be supporting approximately 1,000 lbs.
I will be ordering a total of eight Camco aluminum stands, and if my initial attempt to stabilize the coach with two Camco stands behind the axles fail, I will be retracting the six factory-mounted scissor jacks and using the other six Camco stands in their place, but spacing them ten feet apart on both sides of the coach, also as recommended by LarryJM.
I understand your concern, and if you have proof of your claim, I'd suggest you contact the manufacturer.
Otherwise, do you have an alternate suggestion to solve my RV problem?