Trailer sticks to towing ball

Had a similar situation, put a little grease on the ball, problem solved.

trail-explorer wrote:

When you drop the trailer off at the storage lot, how are you losing the piece of wood when the trailer is sitting on it?

In order to get the trailer off the truck ball, I have to crank it high - higher than I could without a spacer (wood, brick) on the ground. I leave it in the parking lot of the storage place and the storage place places it back in the designated parking space. They don't allow the public into the lot. This seems like a good thing since people like me aren't experienced at parking trailers in tight spots.

So the driver may not put it back for an hour or two. By that time i've left. No big deal but was wondering if I should be able to crank up the trailer high enough without a spacer on the ground.

Jack your trailer as high as you want to get the bars to release safely. There's nothing wrong with jacking the truck and trailer high. Not so high that the truck's rear tires come off of the ground though.

Try a small amount of grease on the ball. You don't need a ton, just a little dab and smear it around. Also clean the inside of the coupler if there's a lot of crud in there. Don't set the parking brake while unhooking. Once the bars are off, shift the truck into N, let it move, then back to P. This should release any built up tension. Depending on the levelness of the surface, you may have to pull forward or backwards a fraction of an inch.

IndianaJim wrote:

trail-explorer wrote:

When you drop the trailer off at the storage lot, how are you losing the piece of wood when the trailer is sitting on it?

In order to get the trailer off the truck ball, I have to crank it high - higher than I could without a spacer (wood, brick) on the ground. I leave it in the parking lot of the storage place and the storage place places it back in the designated parking space. They don't allow the public into the lot. This seems like a good thing since people like me aren't experienced at parking trailers in tight spots.

So the driver may not put it back for an hour or two. By that time i've left. No big deal but was wondering if I should be able to crank up the trailer high enough without a spacer on the ground.

Attach a cable from the tongue to the wood block so you don't lose it every time you bring it to the storage lot...

I have found that the ball is sticking on the lip of the socket, even when greased. I have three methods I use to release it.

1. Since the trailer should be chocked, I disconnect the WD hitch, release the ball latch and level the truck and trailer. I then bump the truck in reverse to free it up. This is a real pain since it often goes a bit too far and is now jammed against the back of the ball socket and release latch.

2. With the trailer chocked and the WD hitch connected, I release the ball latch and crank the ball up just a couple of inches. This is easy because I am not lifting it far and the bars are still pushing upwards. I release the bar tension and usually when the second bar is released the weight of the truck causes the ball to fall.

3. If step #2 does not work, then with the trailer chocked; I just jump on the hitch like everyone else.

You will note that the trailer is always chocked. If you have ever had your trailer slide a couple of inches before the crank post dug in, you will not forget a second time.

Put a lot of black grease on the ball and then go put on your best pants that you own. Now walk past the ball and get the grease on your pants. WRONG. The ball requires NO grease. Manufactures will tell you that the grease on the ball will attract dirt and grit. You can use spray grease to lubricate the locking mechanism but none on the ball. If the ball is all of the way forward your locking mechanism should latch or unlatch with very little effort. If it dose not you may need to adjust the large nut under the mechanism. You will see the fork going under the ball so that it will not come up. Make it as snug as you can with out it not sliding off of the ball when you crank it up.

In my experience it's almost always because there is front/back tension on the ball. After the trailer tires are chocked, allow the tow vehicle to roll front or back a little, removing the tension.

Power tongue jacks really simplify raising the tongue high enough to let gravity do it's thing too.

I can't help you to remember your wood blocks. You may also find that you need way more than one at times.

Could be the tilt of the ball but I just crank mine up until it drops. You may need to move the truck up or back a bit, but that is easy. As for something under the jack, I always put a 4X6 under it home or while camping. I keep it in the front storage so I always have it.

Dennis12 wrote:
Put a lot of black grease on the ball and then go put on your best pants that you own. Now walk past the ball and get the grease on your pants. WRONG. The ball requires NO grease. Manufactures will tell you that the grease on the ball will attract dirt and grit. You can use spray grease to lubricate the locking mechanism but none on the ball. If the ball is all of the way forward your locking mechanism should latch or unlatch with very little effort. If it dose not you may need to adjust the large nut under the mechanism. You will see the fork going under the ball so that it will not come up. Make it as snug as you can with out it not sliding off of the ball when you crank it up.

No need for black grease. Any wheel bearing type of grease will work. And yes the ball and couplet need to be lubed, otherwise you'll get galling which will wear out a ball and coupler. It can also loosen the nut from the friction on the 2 surfaces when turning. In all my years I have never gotten grease on my pants, legs or hands. I wipe out the old at the beginning of the season and apply new. If I'm on a very long trip I'll check and clean and/or add as needed.

Metal sliding against metal with high load? It needs to be lubricated, unless it's intentionally designed to provide friction (like some WD bars with sway control).

If you get grease on your pants, you're doing it wrong and you can expect to have bruised shins, too. That's not a good reason to avoid using grease.