Trailer too long for truck?
Back again. We went to the RV Supershow in Tampa yesterday and found a trailer that checks most of our boxes. Trailer specs: GVW is #7995, #UVW is #6327, dry hitch weight is #658. total length...
Forum Discussion
At one time back in early 2000's on this forum, this rule of thumb ratio for WB to trailer length got mentioned a lot. I may be off a bit as I like it, but at the same time, disagree with it to be typed after ratio.
110" WB for up to 20' of trailer.
Per 1' additional trailer, 3" of WB
Not recommended to tow with a rig under 110" WB......
1, I call hogwash on no rig under 110" can tow. To me you deduct 1' per 3" like you add for WB.
This was also setup probably when station wagans and sedans were main tow rigs. Our stiffer spring trucks, shorter rear over hangs should be able to go a bit longer.vlike wise a typical 8 lug 25 longer than most 15 series. Sw 35 longer yet, same with a dually. Might be 2-4' per style of truck. You get the point. Like wise sine this was made for a ball mount, a 5w can and should be able to go longer IMHO about 5-6', as that is a typical ball over hang from the center of rear axle.
I know of a few other rules of thumb before the common GCWR ratings came out per say. I try to follow those more. And as far as GCWR / tow ratings go, I have no issue saying they again IMHO are a crock of shaving cream! Why, they are performance ratings. IE you can start on an X%grade, hold more than Y mph on a given freeway way grade not overheat etc.
If your like me, I pull grades 2-3x the current spec minimum. I've been on enough grades stalked out, buying new auto transmissions, burned out clutches due to too tall of hearing, not enough torque trying to start on 20+% grades.
My 8000lb loaded equipment trailer swayed to the point of almost taking my 12,000 lb empty dump truck off the road. WELL under tow rating etc. No hitch wieght! Improperly loaded.
I've been moved half a lane width getting hit with a 60-80 mph wind gust on I 205 crossing the columbia river, in my old K3500CC 8' bed pickup pulling a 6000 lb 25'TT.
Saw a picture this morning, of an 18 wheeler windward side wheels in the air, leeward side of truck and trailer resting on guard rails. After a gust Tuesday evening leaned it over on the Deception Pass bridge on north end of Whidbey Island. Good thing it did not go over the rail, or it is iirc a 200' drop, into 70ish feet of 6-8 knot current, 50F degree water. Or stationary water per say at high or low tide.
At the end of the day, it's up to you to decide if a given rig is correct one to tow a given trailer. If you want to pull an 8000 lb trailer, with a given chassis that has ratings to 12000, but you'd is rated to 6000.....depending on how your 6000 lb rated setup is geared, it might overall, do better than the one higher rated. I've out pulled a 1 ton dually 454 th500 with a 25 series 292 I6. With a muncie 4 so 4.10 gears at slow steep grades. Granted slower on freeways. But the 292 never got stalled out. The 454 equiped tig did.
Choose your poison correctly.
Marty
110" WB for up to 20' of trailer.
Per 1' additional trailer, 3" of WB
Not recommended to tow with a rig under 110" WB......
1, I call hogwash on no rig under 110" can tow. To me you deduct 1' per 3" like you add for WB.
This was also setup probably when station wagans and sedans were main tow rigs. Our stiffer spring trucks, shorter rear over hangs should be able to go a bit longer.vlike wise a typical 8 lug 25 longer than most 15 series. Sw 35 longer yet, same with a dually. Might be 2-4' per style of truck. You get the point. Like wise sine this was made for a ball mount, a 5w can and should be able to go longer IMHO about 5-6', as that is a typical ball over hang from the center of rear axle.
I know of a few other rules of thumb before the common GCWR ratings came out per say. I try to follow those more. And as far as GCWR / tow ratings go, I have no issue saying they again IMHO are a crock of shaving cream! Why, they are performance ratings. IE you can start on an X%grade, hold more than Y mph on a given freeway way grade not overheat etc.
If your like me, I pull grades 2-3x the current spec minimum. I've been on enough grades stalked out, buying new auto transmissions, burned out clutches due to too tall of hearing, not enough torque trying to start on 20+% grades.
My 8000lb loaded equipment trailer swayed to the point of almost taking my 12,000 lb empty dump truck off the road. WELL under tow rating etc. No hitch wieght! Improperly loaded.
I've been moved half a lane width getting hit with a 60-80 mph wind gust on I 205 crossing the columbia river, in my old K3500CC 8' bed pickup pulling a 6000 lb 25'TT.
Saw a picture this morning, of an 18 wheeler windward side wheels in the air, leeward side of truck and trailer resting on guard rails. After a gust Tuesday evening leaned it over on the Deception Pass bridge on north end of Whidbey Island. Good thing it did not go over the rail, or it is iirc a 200' drop, into 70ish feet of 6-8 knot current, 50F degree water. Or stationary water per say at high or low tide.
At the end of the day, it's up to you to decide if a given rig is correct one to tow a given trailer. If you want to pull an 8000 lb trailer, with a given chassis that has ratings to 12000, but you'd is rated to 6000.....depending on how your 6000 lb rated setup is geared, it might overall, do better than the one higher rated. I've out pulled a 1 ton dually 454 th500 with a 25 series 292 I6. With a muncie 4 so 4.10 gears at slow steep grades. Granted slower on freeways. But the 292 never got stalled out. The 454 equiped tig did.
Choose your poison correctly.
Marty
