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sabconsulting's avatar
Jun 29, 2016

Trip report : Norway in the truck camper

Well, we had done a lot of stuff in our own country in our truck camper the past couple of years, and a lot of foreign travel in rented campers, so time to get our little camper on a ferry and overseas once again.

Sally had been pestering me for years about doing Scandinavia - not helped by Nolan, who owned the camper many years ago leaving Norway stickers on the back which taunted here every time she returned to the camper. I must say I fancied somewhere warm, so going to > 60 degrees north, even in June, was worrying me.

It is quite a lot of driving too - we did nearly 4000 miles in two and a half weeks.

Living in England, the first step is getting across the channel to mainland Europe. There used to be direct car ferries to Norway and Denmark, but only freight ferries operate now and are less convenient. The obvious route is Dover to Calais in France via a ferry or the Channel tunnel, because it is the shortest sea crossing, though it adds more miles of driving. I decided upon a different route that cost a bit more but was time-efficient and added to the experience - taking the overnight ferry from Harwich, north east of London, to the Hook of Holland, near The Hague. This has the advantage that for only £276 return I was able to do a days work, pick up the ferry at 11 PM, go to bed in an outside cabin, and wake up in Holland ready to do a big drive that day, effectively the first day of our vacation would start in Holland :)

Thursday - Getting the first ferry



When not at a customer site I work from home, and tend to work an early shift compatible with my customers in countries to the east of me. So the plan was to start work at 05:00 as usual and then drive to Harwich in the afternoon. However, things didn't work out like that. A customer in Texas needed my help and so I needed to spend a couple of hours on the phone with them with my computer dialied up to see what they were having a problem with. Being in Texas that presented a problem due to time zones. I couldn't take the call AND drive to the ferry. But the solution was suddenly obvious. I have a truck camper - a mobile office. I can work anywhere I can get a 3G cell phone connection. The next question was one of battery power. Would my laptop survive for that long? So I put together a few bits and pieces from the garage and made my little box of electricity:



An old Optima battery previously on my Jeep and waiting for another application, my spare intelligent battery charger and a 300w modified sine-wave inverter.

This would allow me to run a laptop without draining the camper's built in battery - I could then recharge it whenever I was at a campsite with hook-up.

I made a simple lid out of some ply I had used for a previous camper repair and loaded the box behind the passenger seat of the truck:



So we had a nice run up to the port of Harwich on the coast around lunch time, avoiding the rush hour traffic inevitable on London's orbital M25 motorway.

On arrival we located the ferry port, then drove to the adjacent town and found a nice spot to park by the coast. We then checked the cell phone coverage before having a look around town.



It is actually an interesting little town. It has two light houses - a tall one and the small one in the background below (behind the historic bathing huts):



These two lined up to form a 'leading light' to lead the boats into the harbour. Unfortunately part of the harbour silted up and the lighthouses were given the nickname of 'misleading lights' for their habit of drawing ships onto the sand bar.

Before the seawall was built the shore was further back - this crane unloaded boats:



The odd thing about this is that it was powered by a human tread wheel. It had no brake so could be dangerous.

There was also a disused light ship docked and a more modern automatic one in the channel behind:



As you can see the weather wasn't particularly summery and it was soon time to return to the warmth of the camper and power up my computer for the call with Texas. I dragged an extension lead around from the inverter in the truck cab to the camper. Sally decided to sit in the comfortable truck passenger seat and read her Cathy Reichs book and I have her instructions to turn on the inverter when I knocked on the cab via the passthrough window.

All went well until the battery on the laptop got low towards the end of the call. I knocked on the cab, but nothing happened. I knocked again, but still no power. Fortunately the battery in the laptop lasted until the end of the call, but I was frustrated by the failure. Further investigation showed the problem was nothing to do with my box of electricity - but was in fact a fault with the old laptop power supply I had used - one from a previous computer that I decided could live in the camper.

After the call we went out to find some food. We had a drink in a nice pub by the harbour, then found a traditional fish and chips shop and went to sit by the sea front and eat our meal in the traditional (chilly) way:



After a while we spotted our ferry coming in - this signalled that it was probably a good time to return to the ferry terminal:



The check-in process was really easy - they just asked for our passports, their computer brought up the details and they handed over the information booklet for the ferry and a pair of disposable electronic room keys for our room in the middle of deck 10, starboard side.



It took ages for them to unload all the trucks and trailers. Some trailers are loaded unattended - i.e. without the tractor units - a new tractor unit collects them in Holland. Finally we loaded. Conveniently they had loaded the trucks on the other 3 decks so the cars and RVs could go on the main deck which involved less manoeuvring - drive on / drive off:



Because it was after 10 PM we headed straight up to our cabin. There was a lot of driving required the next day, so we wanted to get our heads down straight away - and also have a shower while the ship was still in port and level.

The room was advertised as a twin room with bunk beds. I envisaged something pretty tiny with a tiny port hole - I was pleasantly surprised. The lower bunk was a small double bed, meaning we could sleep together rather than using separate bunks and the port hole was huge.



The bathroom was good too:



Eventually the ship moved off. The crossing was very smooth, although it was pretty early in the morning before all the children had stopped running up and down the gangways and people had returned from the bar.

Stay tuned for our journey from the North sea to the Baltic sea...

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  • Saturday - Crossing Denmark

    So you have probably noticed that we aren't really stopping to savour these countries - we are racing straight through. The reason is that I have limited time off work, and Norway is the big prize with its fjords and snow. We can return and do some of the intermediate countries in later years.



    I probably annoyed Sally in the morning, hassling her to get up even though she knew there wasn't any hurry. The reason was I knew we didn't have a ticket paying for the parking, and I wondered what time they came around and checked. In the end I just moved the camper off the camping area and onto the regular car parking area, and invested €3 in a regular 3-hour parking ticket.

    Before heading onward we visited the reason why I detoured to Leboe, since it is slightly off the natural track you would take on either of the two main routes through Denmark. This:



    Yes, that is U995 - a WWII U-Boat, pretty much identical to the one portrayed in the German movie and mini-series Das Boot - my favourite war film of all time.

    We were standing waiting for the ticket office to open and therefore had the submarine to ourselves at that time in the morning.

    It was amazing being inside. I have been in a number of diesel-electric submarines and it was interesting to compare. It was also really spacious - at least when populated by only 2 people and not full of stores and torpedoes :B













    It was late morning by the time we left, heading for Denmark.

    There are several routes you can take from northern Germany to Norway. You can drive all the way up the western peninsula of Denmark, then get a ferry to one of the Norwegian ports - we had booked one of those ferries, but they cancelled the booking. The other, and quite popular option, is to drive half way up that peninsula, then turn right and join the Great Belt Bridge - a highway that crosses some impressive bridges and a tunnel and heads east for Sweden. Instead I decided to go to Sweden, but take more of a straight-line route using ferries. This would give us a couple of nice ferry crossings and a short city visit.

    We headed east and onto a German island jutting out into the Baltic in order to catch a ferry to the islands of Denmark.



    I knew already that diesel would become more expensive as I headed north. So I planned to pick some up in Germany before the ferry. We came off the highway looking for a fuel station, but instead found a supermarket where we refilled with food instead. We passed another near the highway, but those are generally more expensive. I thought there would be cheap diesel available near the ferry port, so we kept going. However, when we got to the ferry the road just stopped at the check-in barrier for the ferry. I detoured off to a local village, but there was no diesel there - so I would be heading into a more expensive country with a near empty diesel tank - Doh!

    I hadn't booked this ferry on the basis that I didn't know the time I wanted to use it, and might have changed my mind about the route. However, it turned out that it was €100 for this short crossing to Denmark :E



    The weather was still holding and we enjoyed the sun on the deck and the glass smooth sea in the 26 celcius warmth:



    After leaving the ferry we filled up with diesel - the fuel station was unmanned, but took credit cards. The advantage of stopping at this point was that there is nothing at the southern end of the highway but the ferry terminal - so once I had refuelled the highway was empty as all ferry traffic had now passed.

    Denmark is pretty flat:



    We stopped for lunch by one of the bridges and I had to change some Danisk Krona at a restaurant to get change to use for the toilet. Sally knocked up a little picnic:



    Under the span of the bridge we had just crossed we could see the Great Belt bridge, indicating we were homing in on that highway:



    Eventually we joined the great belt highway, then pulled off north rather than taking the bridge to Sweden. We headed for Helsingor at the north east corner of Denmark, and almost spitting distance from Sweden.



    This looks like a really nice little city. We dropped in to see the castle - you may remember Shakespeare's Hamlet - it was set here. There was a private function going on in the castle (everyone was turning up in formal attire), so we couldn't visit the inner parts:



    I asked Sally if she wanted to find a campground around Helsingor, but she wanted to get into Sweden, so we took a quick look around the old harbour and then returned to the camper:



    As we waited for the next ferry (this one cost us €50 for a ferry journey of about 3 miles!) we spotted another vessel crossing through the straights - one of the Cunard liners, maybe the Queen Mary 2.



    We headed for the top deck of the ferry, while Swedes stocked up on cheap drink from the on-board shop





    Sweden at last:



    We saw another truck camper on the ferry - in fact he parked behind us, but didn't seem interested in talking (truck campers are rare on this side of the Atlantic).

    Getting off the ferry it was after 7 PM and we headed directly to a location I had marked on the GPS for boondocking (wild camping for those outside of the US) slightly up the Swedish coast. I have a smart-phone app where you can pay and download boondocking locations with reviews and information. This would be the first time we had tried it.

    It turned out to be an informal car parking area in some woodland next to a beach. Locals were on the beach, but were slowly leaving; some had horses in horse trailers they were using to ride on the beach. There were also some RVs there, which was a good sign:



    It was pretty hot so we sat in the shade on our beach chairs - trying to juggle keeping out of the sun versus keeping away from the giant mosquitoes.



    We went for a walk through the woodland and circled back along the beah. The woodland part of the walk turned out to be a mistake as there were mosquitoes everywhere.



    Early the next morning was the first indication of a battery problem. We had left the compressor fridge turned up quite high and in the heat it had been running a lot. Early in the morning I heard the telltale sound of the fridge cycling - trying to start, detecting the voltage was too low, shutting down and repeating. I checked the voltage at the battery and it showed that as soon as I turned the fridge on and it started drawing 6 amps the voltage at the battery dropped from 12.8v to 11.9v. I reached down and turned off its 12v supply. Sounds like I need a new battery.

    Once the sun was up and on the solar panels there was enough power to run the fridge again.

    Stay tuned for the trip through Sweden to Norway...
  • Thanks for taking us along!! I'm really enjoying this and would love to tour Europe this way.

    Quick question, will the Breixt affect future traveling as your doing (assuming you need your passport anyway but I honestly don't know how the EU works). Thanks!
  • Friday - North Sea to Baltic Sea

    We were woken by a cheerful tune playing over the PA system announcing that breakfast was served.

    Sally had packed some things into a bag for us to eat in the room but sent me down to see what breakfast options the ferry sold.

    I had noticed that the ferry had a separate lounge for truck drivers - maybe they like to keep them separate from the vacationers :). But all the drivers had disappeared to there for their breakfast, which I suspect was included in their ticket price. Ours was not and it was soon clear the only breakfast venue for non-truck-drivers was the buffet restaurant at the bow on deck 9. It was around $15 per person. Since we don't usually have much for breakfast it didn't seem worth paying that much, so I bought a cup of coffee and took it back to the room.

    The weather definitely hadn't improved. It was now raining and windy. At one point I asked Sally if we really should be heading north - maybe we should turn right out of the ferry port and head in the general direction of Spain.

    But we stuck with the plan - as the man says "have a plan and stick to it".



    So we headed for the highway and the German border. We reached the border after a few hours - Sally missed the border - there is nothing but a sign post there. But one thing did change - the weather. Clearly the British and Dutch haven't kept up their subscriptions for summer, and so summer weather had been withdrawn. Germans clearly had paid, and as we crossed the Elbe at Hamburg we had nothing but blue skies:



    We drove through the German city of Kiel on the coast of the Baltic sea, and headed for the seaside resort of Leboe. A slightly sleepy place with a nice beach. I was planning on using a local campground, but found that the car park on the hill above the sea front allowed you to buy a ticket for overnight parking of an RV, and a load were already lined up.



    Before anyone asks - that is not some fancy new solar or antenna array I have fitted to the top of the camper - it is something I am parked in front of :B

    The automatic ticket machine stated that it was €12 for overnight parking, which seemed a lot since there weren't any facilities, but I guess it is a popular seaside location. But the problem was how to pay. Yes I have a large collection of Euro coins, but I save those for things like toilets, showers, general parking, and didn't fancy burning through 12 of them on one parking machine. I tried the credit card, but it didn't work. I tried asking German campers, but they didn't know and didn't speak English (the older generation in such locations often don't - I cannot criticise because I cannot speak German and it is their country).

    I decided to risk it and not pay over night - maybe someone would come in the morning and I could pay him in notes (and get some more useful coins in change).

    It was also very warm. This was a shock after Holland and England, and not what we were expecting. We also had limited warm weather clothing - Norway is north isn't it - so that means cold, surely, so we had plenty of clothing for that.

    Stay tuned for Denmark ...