tt brakes

LVJJJ wrote:
If brakes don't work at all, I suspect wiring, including GROUND, rather than adjustment. Those magnets can move the shoes quite a ways.

Any in-line fuses?

Agreed, I would start here. If you look by the tongue jack under the frame there should be a bunch of wires that come together at one or more grounding points. Take off any bolts, clean the rust and reinstall. Then try GDETRailers' process for jacking up the trailer and testing the brakes.

thoms wrote:
Hi all, just got a 2011 jayco 24rb tt and noticed the brakes were not working on the way home, I now have it unhooked and back next to house,
my question is how to check the brake system without moving it again,
the tv system is ok as it worked ok on my last tt. but I will check it again. the battery on the tt read 13.4 so I think it is good.

The trailer battery has nothing to do with it's brake system except in the unlikely event the trailer disconnects from the tow vehicle, causing the breakaway switch lanyard to pull the pin and apply full battery power directly to the trailer brakes. During normal towing your trailer brakes are powered by voltage provided by the brake controller mounted in the tow vehicle so obviously they won't work if the TV's brake controller isn't outputting the correct voltage on Pin 2 of your vehicle's Bargman connector. Have you measured for this correct voltage between Pin 2 (brake controller output) and Pin 1 (Ground)? :@

I bought a three year old TT, two of the brake magnets ere worn down through the coils windings causing an open circuit.

As suggested, using your emergency brake switch to check each tire would be an easy first start.

Personally I would want to remove the drum to inspect and clean the brakes on any used unit.

If brakes don't work at all, I suspect wiring, including GROUND, rather than adjustment. Those magnets can move the shoes quite a ways.

Any in-line fuses?

I've bought a lot of trailers in my life and one of the first things I've done is do away with those clamshell type wire connectors trailer mfg (all trailer types) like to use. I solder each connection and use a protective wrapping then several layers of electrical tape. This way I get full amps from the controller which is what you should be looking for. Just 12 volts doesn't tell much....one or two strands of the brake wire can carry 12 volts but not the required amps for 100 percent braking performance.

Passin Thru wrote:
2112 I took mine to Wallyworld and repeated what you said. Finaally I started screaming at them but they still didn't adjust. As soon as I get out of this padded cell I'll see what I did wrong.

Activate them using the brake controller, not the TV brake pedal.

On Edit, maybe not all brake systems have self adjustment systems on them. YMMV

Ford puts the wiring harness in a box and throws it behind the seat somewhere. Have found them before. Not sure why they think it saves time.
2112 I took mine to Wallyworld and repeated what you said. Finaally I started screaming at them but they still didn't adjust. As soon as I get out of this padded cell I'll see what I did wrong.

Your brakes may also be full of grease if someone has misused the fancy grease fitting on the hub. If you can't adjust them try pulling a brake drum to check for grease contamination.

donn0128 wrote:
First thing, adjust the brakes.

I take mine to a large school parking lot to adjust the brakes. Back up and stop with just the trailer brake controller. Pull forward and stop using just the brake controller twice. Repeat until happy.

Do you have a brake controller that you can adjust on that truck? I believe some of the F-150's back in 01 had a wiring port for you to add a controller, but did not actually come with one.