universal sealant/caulk?

Dicor comes in a self leveling sealant for horizontal surfaces and another type for vertical surfaces. Neither I've used were any more or less messy than other brands.

DutchmenSport wrote:
Dicor.

Dicor is really best used only on the rood, or edges of the roof. I would never install that messy **** on walls (around lights, windows, doors, storage compartments)

For other areas, I use Sikaflex or GeoCel Proflex.

thank you everyone for your feedback. I learn so much from everyone and I truly appreciate it.

I use Proflex on all exterior trim, moldings etc. Dicor lap sealant on the roof vents etc. I have tried other products but have had the best results with these.

I did pretty much the same as Larry, using Eternabond tape along the roof edge. I too, haven't had a leak or any other problem in that area.

For siding joints, I used Geocel 2300 Tripolymer sealant. It is almost a twin brother of Proflex RV. Geocel makes a full line of sealants and adhesives for the RV and mobile home industries. Yes, they are stiff to tool but that extra material body means durability, IMO. The 3M sealants Larry listed are also good and also somewhat stiff to tool. A user can ease the tooling by heating the sealant tubes. That will make the material softer as it comes out of the gun.

Placing caulk/sealant over failing sealant makes little sense to me. The new stuff will hold for awhile but will eventually be lifted when the underlying sealant loses it's bond to the structure. Removing caulks is easy using 3M Caulk remover. I put it on with a brush, cover it overnight with Saran wrap, and in the morning peel and wash off the vestiges of the caulk with mineral spirits.

As was mentioned, do NOT use any silicone or latex modified with silicone caulks on the exterior of your RV.

RollinFreenEasy wrote:
I was washing our 2013 Mountaineer yesterday and found several places where the caulk on top of the gutters was coming loose. It appears this seals the top of the gutters to the rubber roof, so it is touching the rubber roof membrane. I have a couple of questions. Should I try to remove all the caulking on top of the gutters or just the places that are coming loose and run a bead of caulk down the top of the whole gutter? Also, I have a tube of Dicor 501 self-leveling caulk, when using this on a vertical surface will this product sag? I'll be near a Camping World by Thursday and can get a different type of caulk.

Personally, I would removing every bit of that caulk along the gutter and do a proper sealant job using Eternabond like I did along each side of my roof as shown in the pics below:





I did this over 8 years ago and haven't had to touch it since and it still looks as good as the day it was done.

If you insist on using a caulk I recommend 3M 4000 UV adhesive/sealant.

Larry

I was washing our 2013 Mountaineer yesterday and found several places where the caulk on top of the gutters was coming loose. It appears this seals the top of the gutters to the rubber roof, so it is touching the rubber roof membrane. I have a couple of questions. Should I try to remove all the caulking on top of the gutters or just the places that are coming loose and run a bead of caulk down the top of the whole gutter? Also, I have a tube of Dicor 501 self-leveling caulk, when using this on a vertical surface will this product sag? I'll be near a Camping World by Thursday and can get a different type of caulk.

al7601 wrote:
what should I use to re-apply around outside lights, windows, corners, and anything else outside needing a water tight seal?

Hopefully there is something I could use for everything, thank you

Be aware that DICOR products are NOT DESIGNED OR MEANT as a primary sealant so IMO they will not provide a "water tight seal" w/o having a primary sealant like butyl caulk or some of the Marine 3M products. Not sure about all the other sealants like Proflex, etc., but IIRC only some of the Marine grade 3M adhesive/sealants like the 5000 and maybe the 4000 series are actually meant to be used as a water tight primary sealant. If you're depending on Dicor and probably most of the other sealants for the primary seal you are risking a leak at sometime in the future.

Eternabond is also meant to be a primary water tight sealant.

For these reasons the ONLY Sealants/Caulk I will use is Eternabond first and then the 3M Marine 4000/5000 series adhesives/sealants. Additionally I always will use butyl caulk as the initial primary sealant where applicable.

Larry

I've had very good luck with OSI Quad found at Lowes. It's a urathane sealant, goes on smooth and tools easily with a soapy finger. ProFlex seems to be very hard to work with. Dicor self leveling on the roof (or Eternabond tape).

SoundGuy wrote:

al7601 wrote:
what should I use to re-apply around outside lights, windows, corners, and anything else outside needing a water tight seal?

Hopefully there is something I could use for everything, thank you

For vertical surfaces I use non sag formula ProFlex, for horizontal caulking I use Dicor self leveling lap sealant. If you're going to search out Dicor make sure you understand which version you're buying, and why, as self leveling isn't suitable at all for use on vertical surfaces.

X2