Upgrading Travel Trailer Electric service

Hello, not sure if this is in the right forum, so my apologies if not. I have a 1968 Yellowstone TT, it is 16ft from bumper to hitch, the cab is only 13ft. Right now it only has one light (electric anyway, has another propane light as well) and I think 1 outlet, haven't went through the whole thing extensively, just recently bought it. Currently, installed by previous owner, it simply has a grounded outdoor extension cord, that runs from the breaker box to a standard 15/20 amp outlet.

I plan to at least add in a small dorm fridge, maybe a small 800 watt microwave. Future plans would maybe include a portable ac, (maybe if I get the inspiration a rooftop unit, but while I am handy with somethings, cutting open the roof would make me nervous lol), and at least another outlet or 2. Who knows what other modifications will spring to mind in the future.

So my first though was to upgrade the box and hook up 30 amp service like most TT's come with. But now I am thinking if I am upgrading anyway why not just go ahead and go all the way to 50 amp service? I doubt my little trailer will ever need that much electricity, but isn't better to have an not need than to need and not have? Also I have read that some people (while rare) have come across campsites with 50 amp only service, so if I just went with 30, I would have to downgrade to 15/20 amp while there? I am assuming that all have the 15/20 amp outlet, or would I just have no power?

Would upgrading it to the 50 amp service just be complete overkill? I am assuming the cost would not be that much of a difference considering I have to buy a new box and shore power cord anyway. This will be my first camping experience not in a tent so I don't know what all I might need power-wise. Any reasons not to go with 50 since I am redoing anyway?

Also had another thought of upgrading to 30 amps and then if and when I got the ac unit, just running a dedicated power cord from it to the campsite box, and advantages to this configuration over just going to 50 amps?

Any suggestions are helpful
Thanks
Tim

18 Replies

westend
Explorer
Jun 11, 2015
Load shedding device, one of many available.
tharless
Explorer
Jun 11, 2015
I appreciate all the responses and advice, I think I will go with just a 30 amp service, and probably hard wire something to take advantage of the 20 amp receptacle as well. I had a feeling that the 50 amps was serious overkill, but thought if I was upgrading anyway, good to get other points of view to pull you back to reality :).As far as that fridge/microwave combo rekoj71, it seems pretty nice, but I think I will save myself the high cost of it and just not use a microwave, I prefer campfire roasted s'mores and hot dogs anyway lol. Maybe I can just find one of those "power allocator" boxes to plugs things into not attached to the fridge.
myredracer
Explorer II
Jun 11, 2015
Can't see the need for 50 amps in a small TT.

CGs have mostly 30 amp pedestals because the NEC only requires a CG to have min. 20% at 50 amps. Older CGs will have even less than 20% and some of the really old CGs will have no 50 amp pedestals at all. Unless you only want to camp at a few places that you know have 50 amps available, you will end up at a lot of CGs that won't have many 50 amps available. You may also find that any 50 amp pedestals are all taken up by the time you get there by all the larger rigs. The NEC is waaay behind the times in terms of how many RVs have 50 amps nowadays and I doubt this is on their radar.

Do carry a 30 to 50 amp dogbone adapter with you tho.

A cheap way of getting more than 30 amps is to install a 20 amp power inlet on the side of a TT (Marinco) and plug into the 15/20 amp (120 volt) recept. commonly found on a pedestal. You would use a 20 amp extension cord along with #12 romex to a 15/20 T-slot recept. inside. This way you can brag that you have 50 amps in your TT. :)

Occasionally I have seen big fancy MHs with an extension cord running out a window to the 20 amp recept. So much for spending all that money on a fancy rig...
rekoj71
Explorer
Jun 11, 2015
One more option if you decide not to upgrade the electric too much...
There are combination dorm size fridge/microwave units, that have the microwave on top of the fridge, then both the microwave and the fridge plug into a small box on the back that is then plugged into the wall. That box is a lot like some of the smart RV electrical systems in that they will shut some things off when other things are on, for instance in an RV it might shut off the A/C for a few minutes when someone put something in the microwave, but in this case it will turn off the fridge for a few minutes when the microwave is used. The ones I'm used to even have a third outlet so that you could still plug in something else and it too might be turned off when the microwave gets used. This allows just one plug to be used for all of these appliances and makes it so that it won't overload the circuit. Probably wouldn't be enough if you were set on adding a large A/C unit though but could help if you decide not to upgrade to 30A.

http://www.amazon.com/Summit-MRF28L-Auto-Defrost-All-Refrigerator/dp/B005AHJ1LW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1434000449&sr=8-6&keywords=dorm+fridge+microwave

This one calls it a "power allocator"
tharless
Explorer
Jun 11, 2015
Haha, here in Ohio country that would not go over so well :) but the wife likes the purple. So it would have a water heater even with no shower? Maybe it busted at some point and that's why they sealed it off. I figured the old water tank was either gone or not functioning so I did plan to add a new small modern one some day. I appreciate all the info, I had no idea what that was lol
ScottG
Nomad
Jun 10, 2015
Yes, that's the water fill.
If you have the old pressure system and it still works, You have to fill with water and then activate an air pump that pressurizes what is most likely a very rusty tank. The pump doesn't keep up and will only provide flowing water for a short time before you have to shut off water flow and allow the air pump to catch up.
It's relatively easy to convert to a modern demand system with a new plastic tank and a demand pump.
westend
Explorer
Jun 10, 2015
Sweet, put a gold stripe on that purple and you'd be the hit of the tailgating crowd at the Vikings games, lol.

The small hatch forward is probably the water heater hatch. The cap and Schrader valve stem is for the fresh water fill and for pressurizing the older air-over-water systems. I still have one of these systems. I know most everyone would put in a new supply pump and tank but my system was in fairly good shape and I thought about it. I don't have to listen to a supply pump every time water is used. If the little compressor inside breaks, I can use a stand alone compressor, visit a gas station, or even pump it up with a bicycle pump. For winterization, I dump the tank and heater, pour in the antifreeze, switch on the pump and it pushes the antifreeze into the pipes. I only need a shutoff valve for the water heater. I thought the galvanized tank might make for a lot of rust but after the usual Spring bleach and rinse, there is none.
Huntindog
Explorer
Jun 10, 2015
The last pic... I have never actually seen one before, but I think it is the water fill, and air pressure system.. Not sure if that is the proper term. From what I have read the older TTs did not use a water pump. They used a pressure tank. It's kind of a neat system but, They are usually not in good shape anymore, and parts are nonexisistant last I read. If you have this, it will be best to go with a modern system.Even if the old system holds pressure now, it likely won't for long, and I don't now if sterlizing such an old likely corroded internally system is possible.
tharless
Explorer
Jun 10, 2015
I will definitely check out your post for some ideas, glad to know before attempting the upgrade that the price is not similar as I originally thought :) Camper doesn't have a bathroom so no water heater, microwave (eh wife might like it, but not needed lol), If I get a small one room portable house ac I could just run a heavy duty outdoor extension cord the site box. I will have to add outlets for pretty much anything I had since I only have the one (I think) so I could proper wire sizing without issue (as far as the correct size, getting new wires through the wall is another topic lol). Thanks for the tip about making sure I have plenty of breakers for distribution, you never know when you need it.

I can post some outside pics, I don't currently have any inside ones, maybe you guys can actually help me identify some of the things here that a newbie like me is unsure of :B

I am assuming the door there is to a storage area? but it for some reason was sealed off, the guy I bought it from said it was sealed off when he bought so I don't know why, could it be something other than storage? I am most likely going to open it up and see but if anyone here knows.

and lastly what is this? I am at a total loss lol
pira114
Explorer II
Jun 10, 2015
Slightly off topic, but can you post a pic of the TT? Just always interested in the vintage class.