Used Dmax or New Cummins
I am currently looking to upgrade to a newer truck. I now have a 2006 Duramax and I am looking at a 2016-2017 with 0-10k mi Cummins or 2013-2014 50k mi Duramax. Apples to Apples the Cummins is a ch...
Forum Discussion
The Dmax LBZ was one of their best engines ever. GMC did some dumb things on the 2500 like not installing a lift pump that they put on their 3500s.
Once you get into the years of the emmission control equipment every last one of them (GM, Ford, Chrysler) had one problem or another. The new ones are just starting to get out of those problems so I would be leary of almost anyone's new model.
Mine has been far from problem free but has 200,000 miles on it. I have had the fuel filter primer pump fail, transfer case motor (4WD) going bad, the water pump leak, the thermostat stick open, the alternator almost fail, and a leaky hose on the power steering pump.
All told that was just under $2,000 in repairs. I had only two times being left on the side of the road. One for stupidity when I put gas in the tank instead of diesel a few years ago. The other was on a 100+ degree day around 6,500 ft towing a 10K pound trailer when the engine went into limp mode on fuel pressure. The fuel hose and filter were the suspected culprits and just letting the engine cool for a 1/2 hour allowed us to drive another 4 to 5 hours to get the filter changed (that was 2 years ago).
You are going to get so much garbage about everyone's great diesel it will make your head explode. My advice is find a few really good diesel mechanics that are working at a successful shop and talk to them. They see what breaks down, what stays out of the shop, which ones are the most expensive and time consuming to repair.
Do your homework first and learn a lot about them before you try to talk to them. At best you are going to get 5 minutes, but it will be the best 5 minutes you have prepared for.
BTW, I was going to get a Dodge Cummings without the pollution gear, but my mechanic talked me out of it. He said the Cummins engine was good, but everthing else was the problem.
So far, I have been happy with my Dmax.
Once you get into the years of the emmission control equipment every last one of them (GM, Ford, Chrysler) had one problem or another. The new ones are just starting to get out of those problems so I would be leary of almost anyone's new model.
Mine has been far from problem free but has 200,000 miles on it. I have had the fuel filter primer pump fail, transfer case motor (4WD) going bad, the water pump leak, the thermostat stick open, the alternator almost fail, and a leaky hose on the power steering pump.
All told that was just under $2,000 in repairs. I had only two times being left on the side of the road. One for stupidity when I put gas in the tank instead of diesel a few years ago. The other was on a 100+ degree day around 6,500 ft towing a 10K pound trailer when the engine went into limp mode on fuel pressure. The fuel hose and filter were the suspected culprits and just letting the engine cool for a 1/2 hour allowed us to drive another 4 to 5 hours to get the filter changed (that was 2 years ago).
You are going to get so much garbage about everyone's great diesel it will make your head explode. My advice is find a few really good diesel mechanics that are working at a successful shop and talk to them. They see what breaks down, what stays out of the shop, which ones are the most expensive and time consuming to repair.
Do your homework first and learn a lot about them before you try to talk to them. At best you are going to get 5 minutes, but it will be the best 5 minutes you have prepared for.
BTW, I was going to get a Dodge Cummings without the pollution gear, but my mechanic talked me out of it. He said the Cummins engine was good, but everthing else was the problem.
So far, I have been happy with my Dmax.
